rat
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Everything posted by rat
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Not necessarily best-of but still damn fine all-arounders: Wojciech Kurtyka ('70's). Silvo Karo ('80's-'90's). Mick Fowler (arguably still in his prime, even w/ a colostomy bag).
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Probably worth your time: https://watch.sdpb.org/video/the-ups-and-downs-of-herb-and-jan-conn-iatiny/
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In addition, if that's a picture of the actual bolt, I would be suspicious for 2 reasons: 1. It appears under-drilled because the eye isn't flush w/ the rock let alone notched in. 2. There is zero epoxy showing around the outer perimeter of the hole.
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Stainless steel glue-in. Many manufacturers require them to be notched in. Info if needed: https://hownot2.com/blogs/bolting-bible
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This might be useful for some of you: https://roadstatus.searchthesummits.com/
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Way to (Allen) Carpe diem on a beautiful line.
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Statistical Climbing Guide for Fred Beckey
rat replied to DHC's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
Yes, fascinating. The potential duplicity, not the potential acts themselves, is still seems less than flattering in my opinion regardless of the military policy at the time. I was disappointed not to have made it to the other "controversial" section about the Everest expedition. -
Statistical Climbing Guide for Fred Beckey
rat replied to DHC's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
"Well, this is gonna be interesting.... The website is https://statisticalclimbingguideforfredbeckey.webador.com/articles and was also posted then deleted on NWHikers.net. The links to the articles don't work for me now. Prior to the abrupt about-face, I skimmed through Chapter 18 regarding his Army service & discharge. It painted a less than flattering portrait but seemed to have plenty of documentation. Mr. Creeden has also posted other interesting historical info on NWHikers. AI spoof (seems unlikely but wtf knows these days), the heavy hand of moderation, legal threats, and/or just second thoughts and wanting to save it all for the definitely "not published by the Mountaineers" book? Inquiring minds want to know." Fred Beckey(TM) https://www.fredbeckeyllc.com/ UBI: 604-172-710. "Governing people": Megan Bond. Just so it's all in one place for posterity and such... -
Statistical Climbing Guide for Fred Beckey
rat replied to DHC's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
Fred Beckey(TM) https://www.fredbeckeyllc.com/ The licensing opportunities boggle the mind. Who woulda thunk it. -
[TR] Choral Peak - North Face 05/05/2024
rat replied to Eric Gilbertson's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Nice find & thanks for the road info. I was a volunteer USFS wilderness ranger for the Entiat district in 1988 and spent a lot of time soloing peaks back there as part of my "work". The relatively prominent W to SW ridge was ~5.7 on nice rock. Correct me if I'm wrong but Choral seems to be part of the Cardinal pluton. Unfortunately most of the other rock in the upper reaches of the Entiat isn't as good. -
Thanks for the takeaways tbickford. For those interested, the public comments are posted here: https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public//ReadingRoom?Project=65559
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Well, this is gonna be interesting.... The website is https://statisticalclimbingguideforfredbeckey.webador.com/articles and was also posted then deleted on NWHikers.net. The links to the articles don't work for me now. Prior to the abrupt about-face, I skimmed through Chapter 18 regarding his Army service & discharge. It painted a less than flattering portrait but seemed to have plenty of documentation. Mr. Creeden has also posted other interesting historical info on NWHikers. AI spoof (seems unlikely but wtf knows these days), the heavy hand of moderation, legal threats, and/or just second thoughts and wanting to save it all for the definitely "not published by the Mountaineers" book? Inquiring minds want to know.
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This is the main part of Chandelier Falls. Some stuff also occasionally forms just to the west. The old Chandelier Cafe is a bit east of here. Last time I was in the area, access had become somewhat complicated by new houses near Hwy 2. There is also an ~2 pitch route north of the Hwy2/Whitepine Cr. Rd. junction that is high up on Nason Ridge. This is difficult to see from the road. You'll want skis or a supportable crust.
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The title pretty much says it. Thanks.
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[TR] Reconnoitering Tower Mountain - None 09/12/2023
rat replied to psathyrella's topic in North Cascades
Swamp Cr. & Pine Cr. are about the same distance & elevation gain. Swamp Cr. was preferable to Pine Cr. but we may have just been knackered by the heat/bugs when going up Pine. Blake Herrington had an amusing write-up on his blog as did Rad Roberts here. -
Not sure but they're probably a combination of older & newer efforts by Cle Elum/Ellensburg locals. Maybe also some contributions from the Tacoma crew that did routes in the Swauk Pinnacles (late 90's if I remember correctly). But you already knew that. Leland Windham et. al. have been active up the North Fork. You'll also find numerous small sandstone pinnacles along side roads (e.g. Shaser Cr.) of the Old Blewett Pass Hwy. Leavenworth locals played on those in the '80's.
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Sorry, it already went to Goodwill.
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Still shooting film? https://photothinking.com/2018-02-16-minox-35-gt-little-big-camera/ Mint condition w/ hard & soft cases but needs a battery. Free to anyone that's actually going to use it. I strongly prefer a local exchange (Seattle to Mt. Vernon/Woolley) but will mail it if you pay the postage (& insurance if you want it).
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[TR] Mount Shuksan - Price Glacier and Nooksack Tower (attempt) 05/29/2023
rat replied to JeffreyW's topic in North Cascades
Not sure if those words are directed at me... When parapenting/paragliding gained traction in the the US in the early 1980's it didn't take long for people to start flying off peaks in the wilderness (especially around the Enchantments) not to mention jumping off El Cap. The USFS & NPS quickly kiboshed it using the Wilderness Act. This prohibition has been in effect for a long time & I wager that most, or at least most longer-in-the-tooth, climbers know this. The purpose of my post was mostly educational. I'm ambivalent about that rule and many others. However, it doesn't seem wise to break a Federal rule, even unwittingly, then continue to post the evidence online. Drone use is also prohibited...except by permit. Go figure... -
[TR] Mount Shuksan - Price Glacier and Nooksack Tower (attempt) 05/29/2023
rat replied to JeffreyW's topic in North Cascades
Nice job. For anyone headed in that direction, the McLane finish on Nooksack is nicer than the uppermost portion of the Beckey-Schmidtke. I've seen a couple of reports of people flying off Shuksan & Baker. My understanding is that you can fly over national parks but not launch or land in them. Isn't Shuksan in the Stephen Mather Wildernes of NCNP? https://www.us-parks.com/nps/stephen-mather-wilderness.html If so, see the Wilderness Closure section here https://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/management/superintendent-compendium.htm#permit activities Or maybe the launch site is outside the boundary? Yet another reason to abolish the park to make way for Segways..... -
La Sportiva Nepals (circa early 2000's). Size 44. Uppers & interiors in good shape. Some damage to the front rands (glued). As with most rigid boots, the sole wear is at the toe & the mid-sole is worn to the point where you should really only use these with universal bindings on the front. Dave Page can do a standard resole but the mid-soles, necessary to restore them to use w/ wire front bales, are hard to source. $50 obo. A mix of old screws: A Chouinard 14cm (for those who remember the days of rapping off electrical conduit) & two 17cm To-Hell-With-Putin Specials -- free. BD 2-18cm, 2-21cm $5 apiece. These need sharpening but are fine for that one long screw on your rack for the shit ice and/or v-threads. Smiley 1-21cm. $5. As for the BDs but the hanger accepts 2 'biners. Cash. I can meet anywhere from north Seattle to Sedro-Woolley.
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Free older guides - Utah ice, Cody ice, Skaha rock, Tenerife rock
rat replied to rat's topic in The Yard Sale
Surprisingly, these have been claimed.