slaphappy

Never thought I would say this but I agree with Pope's above statement. (although his attempts at comparing it to rap-bolting are, as usual , pathetic) I would have no problem tappin in a pin if conditions and terrain warrant it, although I highly doubt a hammer would be part of my arsenal on a clean trade route at a crag. Hmmm... I wonder about that. If we are truly talking about pitch 1 of Green Drag-on and my memory is correct, the freeclimbing crux is at about 2/3 height after the angle eases back and immediately below the 4th class finish. Since the 11- crux is laying back small pin scars on a slabby seam, additional scarring would dramatically affect the freeclimbing and the ease of placing protection. Multiple "snowy adventures" = permanently altered and unrepairable climbing. Correctly placed fixed hardware = permanent unaltered climbing and removable/repairable damage. Your right Pope, it's not the "same" thing.

Pretty sure it's not Vantage...

Hmmmm, I don't really agree with you. From the tarn directly below (east of) Mesa Lake it takes about 30-45 minutes to reach The Mole. I would consider that "passing by" if I was connecting a Toketie/Prusik outing. Not exactly a "detour" on a multi day trip. Whatever.

allison- it seems to me you have no idea what your talking about, have you even hiked through the area?

Have you really been up there and looked at it from the top, or just sittin on your ass staring at a map? I've been to the Eastern edge of the mesa and am pretty damn sure it cliffs out. If your goal is the mesa or The Hook Creek Crags, why anyone would hike up there any other way than Hook Creek is beyond me.

Well done Jonathan! After climbing it a few winters back, I wanted to return with my snowboard but have not yet done so. Maybe someday.

uhhh, yeah.

My lady (of 4+ years) climbs 5.12 sport, boulders v-7/8, and onsights 5.11 trad regularly. I can not. I can however out her.

4 days craggin and in L-town. Ahhh early season lichen! If the weather turns to shite, grab the board and head up Cashmere.

Vesper

Mazama perhaps?

JB- You got it, we are on the north face of The Mole. Incidently, Matt, we did head to Toketie after bivying on the plateau.

Matt you answered your own guess on Toketie. Darin I wish I could say it was Jupiter or Waterfall Column but it's not. Your both getting closer!

Matt- That's not actually a sleeping pad, although we were carrying over. It is a low elevation climb that can easily be seen from the road but there is no direct "trail" to the formation and there is significant elevation gain to the base. It can be done in a day (rare) but we had another objective as well. *The clue has to do with the distinct change of color in the stone from the climber's left to his right. It is described as such in the Beckey Bible.

Matt you are right, there is a pine directly behind "me" and it is on the eastern side of the crest. Not the Coquihalla though. *There is one subtle clue that should clue someone in to the location.

Here's one... see attachment

YIPES! Even a tr fall could create enough friction to burn through your prussik cord! Careful out there!

I prefer the +/- system.

It looks black, coarse sheath, and stiff.

Kit rates pretty high on my list as well. Word is he is starting to tie into the short end again. Hope it's not just a rumor, sure would like to do a few routes with him and share many a .

Allison (and others)- The way this whole thing has unfolded is not humorous. Although had someone made the dummy look a bit more fake, no 911 call was ever placed, and no one got hurt "investigating" I do find the concept behind the prank humorous. I have participated in a rescue where the climber did not live, I assure you I find no humor in rescues. Had things turned out differently, are you so uptight that you can't recognize any humor in it? Geez lighten up. A number of years back while wandering around late night under a full moon, I sat on top of Sunshine Wall, and with my feet rocked Herm's Tower back and forth a few inches. We joked about toppling it down, and how someday it would fall over on it's own, hopefully without a passenger. I never climbed Positive Vibrations and warned my friends of it's precarious state. One thing that puzzles me (why, I don't know) is if someone pryed or used a car jack to trundle it from the top, why didn't just the top 10 feet or so topple off? The columns at Frenchman's are just a bunch of huge detached blocks balanced atop one another. If they jacked it from the bottom, well, they have a death wish. Or was gravity the culprit? On a lighter note, JY says there is a pretty awesome crack where the chimney route used to be, anyone climb it yet?

JY heard that Herm's Tower had been toppled. He went over to confirm this and to recover some of his hangers from Positive Vibrations if it was in fact true. (it is) While heading down the scree he saw what looked like a body under some rubble, immediately called 911 and waited for them to respond. After they showed up and discovered the dummy, they now want to talk to the individuals responsible for the hoax/trundle. They told JY he did the right thing by calling 911 before approaching the "body". One of the officers who responded apparently twisted his ankle in the scree. I doubt the individuals responsible for the prank would have wanted it to go this far, it's a shame that it did, it's really quite humerous.

Cavey, DeadSpace isn't talking about where your pin is at, he's refering to the roof to the left of it. You traverse a thin seam straight left (from your pin) and pull an awkward roof. No one thinks a bolt should go there, he just wants people to climb his route. It's a rather weak troll. One thing he doesn't mention is that if the leader were to fall and pull the sliders or didn't have them and fell attempting to climb through, the fall would be a pendulum smack onto a steep slab. The .75 Camalot before the roof is bomber and would keep the leader off the deck for sure. That said, leave it boltless.

Pretty pathetic Empty Space!