wayne

sexy-time

What do you do Rob?

Great shape, Make offer in Seattle, Willing to let go cheap, Thanks, Wayne

Job!

HEY PORTER!!Can we sell those books on this site?

Chal is tough in 3. N butt Terrier!

It was the roof at the start that I put in the only piton. The perfect dihedral finish was done on all rps. so the route has been done clean overall. Thanks for the great photos/topos guys,

Jeez!Looked fun 'till the weather came down.

bag a couple of summits. D-tail, Colchuck, stuart(upper n.ridge is doable). CBR,etc Sadly, there arent a lot of climbs under 5.7

Lowlander and I hooked up at last-minute to brave the heat of the hottest days of the year to go after The Torment-Forbidden Traverse. It was appropriate that on that fateful morning we left, that my fried eggs chose to bless us with the proper sign of the second-coming. Reeling from the heat we left Hot Seattle at 6am and started the furnace struggle, nearly frying ourselves on the Taboo Glacier. Once on the ridge, it was way cooler. We didn't end up roping up at all on the whole trip. It was great not be encumbered with the stuff. We did end up rappelling a time or 2. Cant.stop.the. VOICES!! After running into a couple of friends, We settled into a great bivy, that kept getting better with the sunsetting! .....Now , If I recall the "Red Sky at Night/Morning" Lore of Yore ---We should have been ..delighted..? We wondered in the morning as to what it means if you have red skies in both the evening and morning? I guess it meant we were to be scared sailors. We woke to something I had never seen of or heard of before: Behold the "Alpenglow Rainbow"!! Like a giant red bolt of lightning, It looked even more amazing in person. As much as we wanted to just revel in its glory, we were being pressed by the coming electrical storm. It was Lowlander that noticed the crackling first. I suggested that we hunker down and not go more than half way up the west ridge of Forbidden. We got secured in when suddenly I got a sharp jolt across my forehead! I jumped with the pain, making Low jump as well. He later told me that he heard,saw, and felt nothing, though standing right next to me!. It felt like we were in the what-not-to-do illustration in Mountaineering Freedom-of-the Hills! We sat on my insulation pad and covered up in the rain-now scared shit-less. Eventually it chilled the hell out, and we pushed on to the summit- rather quickly. Low barely stopped for a summit shot in the dark skies. It was to be an interesting time getting over the peak we call-Forbidden. It almost felt like it was just that.

I am glad I sold one of my places in time(3 months ago).I got close to what I wanted ,but didnt make out great. It is easier to sleep being downsized right now. Good luck to you D TP.

Summit Chief Winter routes Oops covered I believe the Jens Route was called "Dragonscar?

With apologies to Jim and Peter, I dont intend on writing some new book. First,I would not be able to put together work near as fine as yours, some of my favorite all-time guidebooks.Second, well I dont need a second reason, but I would encourage a trilogy of your books!! Instead, I hope to put together modest web-page of Trip Report Links that cover great routes that have been REALLY overlooked or are one of the more recent reports on new routes.The climbs should be of great quality and good available beta links. The page will have winter routes too. How could you leave out 3-Fingers or the new ice route on Whitehorse? So here is a great place to post some of the sveet.Please include links. Spray away!

Damn. I am sorry to the people who were a part of her life. Sounds like someone I would have enjoyed meeting. Doesnt help anyone involved, but this is a pattern with the route.I dont know what it is. Is it just the volume of Traffic? Tough to see this, but it is the 4th accident I have heard of on the climb. Having done it last weekend, I was looking at it from a danger perspective, and it just didnt seem that scary.

Wow ,Great beta and report. I hope its ok if I use this report as a link on my traverse page

Alex, what is: "Thread titles that Wayne will click on"

OH the price. It is expensive , but worth it.

Ha! Good one. I wanted to be ahead of all folk' cause I forgot my helmet. It is hard to believe that in "27 years of climbing" That nobody had tried to pass her before. Anyways , she was nice after she saw we werent going to pull her off the pitch. It is sketchy to pass someone while they are leading.

Pauls recent ascent of Ranier (yes he has never done Ranier) just got him up several top lists! Congrats Mr!

Partner - found

I was thinking: S.face Inspiration, Davis Peak. Mesachie Ideas?

Sounds like he was with the right people. Best wishes with the recovery

I am looking to enchain the entire picket range. Ill be frank. Grade 7 , 8-10/ 12 hr days. free- solo 5.8. I have the plan wrapped and ready to go this saturday.

Got a fast set of legs and all of next week available? I am going for the big one and need somebody soon, please

Wayne here, Was that the Verita ridge?