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Drederek

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Everything posted by Drederek

  1. The first time we did it we went that way for chestbeating purposes. Multipitch 5.11 being much more "hardcore" than 5.10 LOL. After that it was just habit. And we like slabs.
  2. 'The Bolted Flake', 'Penguins in Bondage' and 'Dancing Madly Backwards' all come to mind
  3. The bolt with the sling protects the 11a move on the 5th pitch. step across the chimney and walk down the diagonal crack till you're below the bolt then climb the steep slab to the other end of the flake you came out of the gully on. Not sure why you didn't find an anchor on top. Did you traverse right 10 feet or so at the end of it? I've always done p6 (or p3 of LA) as a jumbled face with short cracks for pro. The left side is more easily protected. Pitch 4 is the double cracks to the wide chimney. Sounds like you did a great job on a superb route. Next time do the first 4 pitches of Centerfold for a "warmup"!
  4. Not a cloud in the sky last evening. Bats came out at 8:24!!!
  5. I third that sentiment. Its getting close to being clustered already with intertwining routes up there. I'm unsure if I've ever done all of Dreamer in one go. Hey Mattp (or anyone else) is there any more climbing in that basin behind Dreamer? Another 5+ pitch route would entice me to hike down that gully!
  6. I am very optimistic today. I'll be out if you think we got a chance.
  7. I've always called it Vantage, you know, Frenchmans Coulee. Or was it the other way round? Blewett or Swauk Pass while we're at it!
  8. OK then that sounds doable. I've never been up/down the south fork of Oak creek canyon-hope its as nice as the north. We parked on the highway and came out First Creek canyon. I think that was a year with no late exit. that was a 4 hour hike in the moonlight. The killer part was the boulderhopping which wore us out after a long day. First Creek canyon seemed a bit more strenuous than most to us.
  9. I'm interested in a 2 hour descent from Mt Wilson. Can you outline it for me? Thx
  10. Feasability of doing two long routes in two days is good if you pick easier to find stuff. Some of the canyons are a bit tricky to navigate your first time up them. Swains descriptions, especially the descents, can be a bit nebulous. Black Velvet canyon is not in the park and has a short approach. Routes are generally in the shade from sometime in the morning on. A good choice for the first day. Most of the good routes in Oak creek canyon are sunny. The walkoff from the upper painted bowl routes is spectacular. Check the moon phase if you think you'll be out late. If its up and 75% or better you won't need a headlamp. GL
  11. Its 200 yards from the rec center. Behind the forestry bldg. Its a bit grim but its free!
  12. Tieton is over white pass on highway 12. About an hour and a half from I-5. Its actually 4-5 different areas in a 25 mile stretch. The amount of sun and difficulty you are looking for would determine which area to visit.
  13. With just a hint of a breeze it was comfortable to climb by 7 last nite. By the time the bats came streaming out of the cracks conditions were ideal. See you next week Off!
  14. Anyone know if the pool and showers are open this month? TY
  15. Tram is spendy. its only 18 miles by trail.
  16. Chalk is aid. Excessive chalk is not. It is a misguided attempt to simulate GU FA conditions. Vigorous brushing can enhance the holds. Chipping on a miniature scale. My point is shut up and climb. Of course I am here so I guess I'm a Neil Young fan too.
  17. Sam Gamgee Cruel Shoes Yes
  18. When does a bolt become more of a rock picket? When you can use it to pound a 16.
  19. Once you've called once to reassure you're screwed. You need to set the bar very low. So when you do screw up and call you'll be a hero!
  20. Its the 2000 tricky moves up the rotten approach gully that I'd worry about. The rock moves seemed well within the grade to me.
  21. hohm - Off Whites Quarry is in Tenino. See the Olympia Pub Club thread for the particulars.
  22. Search this site and find the guys that were pulling stuff apart with tanks a few years back. Might not be specifically what you're asking about but it sure impressed me that climbing ropes and gear is pretty tough.
  23. There are a few of us over 40's climbing at OW's quarry on wednesday nights. I thought old fartism struck at like, ... 80 or so!
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