Drederek

This is old ground - do a search. That said I'd start with a copy of Viktor's guidebook to locate areas to begin. If he's 5'2 and 300 pounds you may want to start with Jenny Craig. If he's the state A 400m champ you may want to drag him up Orbit. Sorry if this is blunt.

Far and away I've found more nuts climbing than any other booty. I still climb with many of them.

I'm just under 6' tall and weigh 175-178 depending on diet and excercise the previous week. Weighed 145 at HS graduation. Years and gaining muscle and quitting smoking and climbing have got me where I am today. Ideal climb weight in a warm climate would be 165-170. More comfortable around here at the higher weight. I weighed in the low 170's when getting my best RP's a few years back but caught every cold that came by. I'd rather be healthy. I've never worried about weight when falling on gear. It'll hold or it won't

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The only reason you may want to add a few bolts to a route that I can think of is if you think you may want a few more to lead it when you're old and gray. That's about the only scenario I've seen where ppl write they add bolts. There's no need to drop the commitment level of your routes if you're happy with it. That said Miss Hill wrote in her book that she put up a route so dangerous she declined to document it and if someone 'found' it and bolted it it would be fine with her. So you may feel some responsibility to those who may follow you.

Welcome to cascadeclimbers Ricky!

Its been at least 5 years since I climbed this route and the hold on the lip was lookin shaky then. Seemed like there were some lesser alternatives within reach however.

Went last fall with the wife. Way less crowded than the spring. Don't know if thats normal or not but we could get on anything we wanted. Frogland was great (full shade) and Olive Oil was nice too (in and out) It was too hot for Johnny Vegas and Solar Slab! Black Orpheus has a couple ropelengths of 4th/very low 5th in the middle so its not as long as it looks. Epinephrine is my favorite climb at RR. Chrimson Chrysalis is fun and you rap the route so its easy (haha) to bail if darkness threatens (lots of chickenheads for the rope to hang up on - give yourself lots of time to descend) Have a good trip!

Yeah I wondered about you guys on super slab. We rapped by ya right before it got wet. Did you see the tumbleweeds hurtling thru the air hundreds of feet above the river?

if theres 5 lousy climbs there i only found 4 of them the hike was pleasant however

1. The Manly Wham 2. Davis-Holland Lovin Arms 3. Hemp Liberation 4. Dreamer 5. Epinephrine (sorry couldn't leave it out)

If you really want to advance that far in a season it would really help if you have the body for it. The numbers I've seen thrown out are 5'9 135# , 6'0 150# and 6'3 165. If you're more my body size of 6'0 175# its going to be difficult but not impossible. Having small fingers will help too as you will be able to put more (and more of them) on small holds. That all said these are generalities and will not apply to everyone so pull hard and have fun. Kinesthetic awareness, flexibility, balance and a good mindset will get you to your goal at some point. When I decided I had to redpoint 5.12 I started going to Little Si every wednesday and did Rainy every time till I got it. The one to the right of it is not too bad either and noone will say its not 5.12

Weather looks good this week - Hows the cliff lookin Off?

Put a dab of JB weld on the threads of your links. They'll be a little harder to liberate that way. A small tube should go a long ways.

There is great hike from the sandstone quarry back towards Calico basin. Lots of easy trail and just a bit of boulder hopping. And plenty of sport climbs here and there along the way in a more private setting. The Falcon guide is really good. Congrats and good luck on getting her into climbing.

I've had similar experiences on easier climbs at Smith. It seems to me on the harder ones people are a bit more respectful of each other. It probably has more to do with the crowding than anything else, it seems the easy climbs always have lines. Smith Rock etiquette is practically an oxymoron.

Climbing

What about the friction created by sliding down the rock on a slab? Not everything worth climbing is overhanging. What part of the rope takes the most strain? If you take 5 leader falls on the first bolt of Hot Monkey Love do you ruin the whole rope or just the end? (the answer is your belayers glasses) Sounds like a skinny stretchy rope may be the way to go.

Sorry, I just took the little happy guy in the box at face value. Doh!

So... you like your work?

If its sticking out far enuf to sling it I would.

Hope things aren't too drippy out there. We're planning on heading out unless we hear different

Calico Basin has a pretty good variety of sport routes 5.7 to 5.12 Its a good place to go if you don't have all day and don't want to pay. Short approaches and out of the park. The gallery, black corridor and wall of confussion can keep you busy for several days with lots of short routes mostly tennish. If you do go into Black Velvet canyon to do Prince of Darkness I'd bring a set of small tcu's or nuts . Unimpeachable groping is an 8 pitch sportclimb on Ginger buttress with the first 7 pitches all 5.10. A swain guide will probably be more helpful to you than the urioste guide for sport. Have a Ball!

Its amazing how this thread makes me think about why I climb. A long time ago i just wanted to climb and didn't care how. Then I started chasing numbers and letters and style became very important. Now I'm just out to have fun again and whether I redpoint or pinkpoint or pusspoint or climb a 5.11 at 5.10b A0 only matters when I'm relating my experience to someone else. I'd rather climb everything without hanging or falling but if I need to aid something I will. There is something to be said for keeping moving and not wasting yourself on one move. But I'm a lot less of a sportclimber these days. I always try to improve my stance a bit before grabbing a draw. Many times I've found no need to with better feet.

Heya Off talk to that 'dog' of yours about waiting till thursday to rain next week please. I was really bummed yesterday afternoon when the rain came on steady. Logcabinfish's garage is a poor substitute for the finest sandstone in WA.