ScottP

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: The question is not about the history of his avatar. Who is he? The question didn't specify a particular Peter Puget.

quote: Originally posted by scott harpell: scottp- i did that on deirdre in squamish...the funny thing is it worked! we told them we were joking....we souldn't have....it took them 30 minutes to get of the 5.0 slab start.... we'll not even go into what happened after that.... Yeah, there I remember a couple of times when the other guys looked a little befuddled like they were about to step aside. We'd just laugh, tell them to have fun, and head for a contingent.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: But I have to often heard the "we have a class" as some sort of reason why I should get off a route or leave an area. To often I hear: "Um, hi. I'm from the mountaineers, and we have a class using this area today." Um, hi. I'm not from the mountaineers. I have no class. I am not in a class. I am climbing here. Have a nice day. My friend Rob and I used to have a standard line when arriving at the base of a climb to find someone else already queued up for it: "Excuse me, we have this climb reserved for today." Initial reactioin was usually a "Fuck YOU!" look until they found out we weren't serious.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: From what little I remember of Washington history in fifth grade I think he was the first white man to discover Puget Sound in the 18th C. Then he sailed to Fiji and got it on with a bunch of brown women. More specifically he was a lieutenant on board the ship "Discovery" captained by George Vancouver. Not wanting to send the ship through the narrow passage of Admiralty Inlet, Vancouver appointed Lieutenant Peter Puget to take a party of smaller boats to explore the southern sound. I believe he is credited with being the first white man to enter Puget Sound proper and also with naming Mt. Rainier.

Can I rent it for half a day? (I have to anchor some joists to a concrete foundation.)

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: (snip) Ben Nevis has been soloed nekked. Although the guy did use boots crampons and tools. Then it wasn't naked. Or "nekked" for that matter. BTW, if you want a true sysiphean experience, do it after eating some Vitamin L.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Dru, I'm of the third generation of our family born in the San Joaquin Valley, Kern County. Our family still owns the homestead farm of my great-grandfather near the Tule Elk reserve. Would that be around Buttonwillow by chance? Or are your roots in one of the many fine Acres thereabouts?

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Isn't there an alternate way to get into the Colchuck area? Does that bridge crap mean that I need to take the snow creek wall, Stuart, and the rest off my list as well? You could go in through the Snow Lake trail to access Colchuck. It is a bit longer, but doable. Along the way is, of course, Snow Creek Wall and you could do the South Face of Prusik Peak since you would also pass it along the way. The access to the N Ridge of Stuart can be done from the south via the Teanaway River Road/Ingalls Pass approach (see Ingalls Peak in the Nelson guide). Many people do it this way. There are some logistical concerns, but they aren't insurmountable.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: I haven't heard of any bird closures at Index (ever), I'd say hit it in the middle of the week to avoid crowds like any other good crag and give it a couple of days to dry out after a good rain, unless you want to experience "authentic" Index climbing. I almost got my scalp ripped off my skull by a raptor while dicking around just left of the start of the arch pitch on the Golden Arch. She/He was mighty pissed when I turned a corner on the ledge and interrupted some nest sitting. Probably will be some closures some day. Anyway, I ditto the middle of the week thing if you want to do the classics at Index.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: I think you'd find it a lot more enjoyable now. BTW that's a nice picture. Yeah that's what I hear. If I ever get back up there, I will probably do Safe Sex though. Thanks for the compliment, though my friend Rob took the picture.

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: What is all the fuss over bolting a crack? If there was a route 4 pitches tall and you could protect 3 or 4 sections with gear the pioneer would have to be sure to get it into the guide book what pieces to bring or the climber would have to bring a full rack to be sure he was protected. I know ethics call for the question: Scar the crack or put in a bolt? The first time I lead Newest Industry at Index, I took a bunch of draws, according to my interpretation of the guide. On the upper section, I found that there was a bit of a runout past good gear placements. Having no gear, I did the prudent thing and downclimbed to the last bolt and then lowered off. I would rather have done that, and then what I did the next time I lead it(which was bring the gear I needed) than to have found bolts next to good gear placements. Moral of the story: Don't rely on guidebooks to supply you with protection requirements. and IMHO, it isn't neccesary to put bolts next to good gear placements.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Closer to home, the 4th pitch of Dreamer (before retrobolting) was scintillating. Your not complaining are you? Last night a few people discussed this pitch over beers and all agreed it's a better climb since the retrobolt job. Anyone disagree? No. No complaints whatsoever. Though I haven't done the route since it was retrobolted, I feel that particular pitch had nastiness written all over it. I was never so happy to clip into a rusty, 1/4 inch spinner.

Also, Windward Direct Catacombs Got on Testicle Fortitude once, but there wasn't any.

Washboards with the Primate finish. Dr. Leaky Lightning Bolt Crack

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: quote:Originally posted by TimL: [qb]Also, I never hear anyone ever boasting about slab climbing (SNIP)A much more terrifying climb, though a couple grades easier, is Mouth to Perhaps on Glacier Point Apron. There's two consectutive 5.9 pitches up high that have a total of one piece of protection; One pitch has a 1/4" bolt, the next has nothing. No positive holds. Gulp. [QB] Since the recent rockfall incidents on the Apron, anything there is terrifying to me. Grack Marginal had my full attention before then. Nine bolts (including anchors) in three pitches. Closer to home, the 4th pitch of Dreamer (before retrobolting) was scintillating. [ 04-15-2002, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: "GET HIGH HERE"(snip)To think that I didn't really understand what they were talking about until college at Humboldt State. I once saw a bud at HSU that someone referred to as a "donkey dick". It was that big. It only cost me thirty bucks and it was goood! Ahem...By "bud" I mean the flower of a cannabis indicus plant. [ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: ScottP ]

"Attitude is more important than the past, than education, than money, than circumstances, than what people do or say. It is more important than appearance, giftedness, or skill. " W. C. Fields

Ron C. Judd, Outdoor Sports columnist for the Seattle Times did a piece on outdoor equipment names last Sunday that was pretty good. It included some of his ideas: Mountain Hardwear Extreme Suffocator Deluxe Four Season Self-Heating, Nighttime Gas-Retaining Tent NorthFace/Weber Baste-Me-Or-Cut-Me-Out-Of-This-Fucking-Thing mummy bag Cascade Designs Spinal Contusion Ultra Lite Imaginary Sleeping Pad Arctery'x Just-Shoot-Me-Now Multi-Sport Extended Expedition Backpack. REI Burnt Digits Candle Lantern with the Tent Floor-Be-Gone feature.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: You shouldn't have to choose between 5 pound single and 10 pound double. The North Face used to make a five pound double wall tent that was strong in the wind, and very roomy for two. It was the Westwind. I believe it weighed under 6 pounds in the as-sold package with the stakes, and I found it unnecessary to carry stakes because in the mountains I always tied it out to skis, bushes or rocks anyway. It was high enough at the front end to sit up in , but with an overall low profile, it was less susceptible to wind than other N.Face tents -- I once spent a night on Rainier when my Westwind was find, but the dome tents were either imploding or blowing over or both. The problem was, it wasn't "free-standing" so they couldn't sell it when people compared features in a catalog. Chock another one up for mass-market-driven product "development." I own a Westwind. For it's size, it is pretty light and I can attest to the wind resistance also. (The thing is shaped like a slug.) The strongest winds I have experienced was a a night spent in a howler in the Needles of South Dakota of all places and it was fine.

quote: Originally posted by Lowell Skoog: I admire Steve Firebaugh for reaching out to this board and offering to work out any problems. He's maintained a more positive tone than I could have managed. So far I haven't heard many concrete suggestions that he can fix. I was one of the original smart-asses who replied to Steve's post. While I don't apologize for what I said, I do believe that Steve was sincere. I also believe the reason there haven't been any concrete suggestions that he can fix is that what the Mountaineers do as an educational institution is inherently in opposition to the mindset of many individual climbers: Climbing is something that is personal and free from restrictions.

[ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: ScottP ][/qb] [ 04-05-2002: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: So your saying that when two dogs play around the yard or have a tug-o-war with a chew toy is not a nature act it's just recreation for them... so you don't think other animals don't get board and go out and do something just for recreation... that is considered natural, why is it not considered natural for us to go out and occupie our time with a sport, many other animals do it, dolphins for one... Whoah there Jake, your putting words in my mouth.All I said is that dolphins eat, sleep, play and fuck. I made no reference to anything related to "nature" or "natural", though what they are doing is certainly natural. The point I was trying to make is that IMO big brains and opposable digits aren't exactly the winning combination we think they are. We manipulate our environment in such a way as to isolate ourselves from it. Yeah, you go out in the hills in winter and feel the cold on your face, but you're most likely clothed in plastics, carrying distilled fuels that you burn in objects made of refined metals for heat... and the list goes on. Rather removed from "nature" in my book.

quote: Originally posted by klenke: Sounds like dolpins are smarter. Do you think dolphins get stressed out about their very existence? Probably only when it is threatened.

quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: Ok maybe I'm not the smartest, but do you think that dolfins have any Idea about the other planets, stars, our own sun, what they are made of, not to mention know what the rock we climb are made of or how old they are, we have learnd more about our enviornment that any other creature that lives on this microscopic rock flouting in a sea of perpetual nothingness... All dolphins do is eat, sleep, play and fuck. Whereas we insist on categorizing and classifying things in order to make our lives meaningful (and therefore more complicated.) Who is the smarter beast?

Bolted routes on Canopy Crag at Little Si are nothing more than shiny hangars sticking out of vertical carpets of moss. Those routes were bolted in the mid-90's.