Cpt.Caveman

Face it Loren you just dont like me. Come on admit it. You've always been a snide ass in person. You're not invited to any of my climbs simply because I dont like you. It's simple enough for me. And I'm not hesitating to say it. Super secret slide show was mentioned by Dru so I guess you'll have to pny up Dru. All in all you dont see me chestbeating about a certain area or trip for 2 years and posting website shots of I LUVE MYSELF here. for every single time I go out. Then tell everyone it's super secret.

All rules of Darwinism are applied even to sport climbing sometimes.

No shit. some poeple resemble skeletal remains and holloween outfits.

50 meter will work.

Yes.

Yeah but it's usually too thin to take screws other than tie offs. There is rock pro..... ..

3-4 KBs, 2 LAs, metolius green cam, yellow and blue metoluis tcus, 6 long slings. one skinny rope. should be a good weekend for it too...

Look ma it's me. Thump thump thump. Yes of course areas are "secret". I just think your little clicks approach to web chestbeating is obvious. cracked that's not really what it is. Ice climbig is kind of a drag lately. I've been preferring to ski anyway.

I think its the way mr alpinedave goes about it. Post 4 trs and chestbeat. We've all been guilty but for 2 years it seems kind of dull and silly at this point. Stroke each others cocks and have your fun. There is lots of ice but if you are going to be "secretive" then keep it that way. I could just call up somebody and ask them but in truth I could really care less.

I might be up somewhere else without a partner from seattle. Working on logistics tonight.

You have to be in the super secret in club. I call it the grandest chestbeating of all.

a complete rack (*)(*)

I'm not going to slit anyone's throat that doesn't deserve it. Here's the area- http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/879_matier_sunrise.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/161_Matier.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/308_AnniversaryGl3.jpg

If someone wants to ski into the Anniversary Glacier this weekend I was thinking about going. I'd like to snow camp and avoid the noisy hut. Anybody from Seattle area interested? I've been there before. For those that don't know it's a real short ski and nice area with 8-9k foot peaks in the area that can be climbed\skied to. I guess it all depends on the weather though. Gapers reply by personal message. Thanks.

i'll bet you anything you want! Hahhaha. It's pretty easy to lie i wrote in mccain. i have no reason to lie. hahaha

i'll bet you anything you want! Hahhaha. It's pretty easy to lie

What's the odds on the bet that both you foos voted for bush anway. Now that is funny

Yes Tim it does take extra time to go all the way to Prusik and back around or on those other hikes in too. If it's your sole destination it's another one of those pick your poison games I think when we climbed it, we had a 3 day weekend trip and managed the South Face (beckey) route of Prusik after the approach day. The next day was the really easy and nice hike to Toketie , past the lakes you mention and climbed the wall and descending the smoke a thai drainage via headlamp. Certainly we are not the fittest or quickest so someone more gung ho could make eaiser work of it. If you want some adventure you'll probably get what you were looking for on this one. Nice views from 3 musketeers ridge , which is where the wall tops out on...

Danimal and I swapped pitches up Toketie Wall 2 falls ago. It's about 7-8 pitches if you take it all the way from the buttress toe for the '76 route. Expect lichen, dirt and general mountain climbing type of shit. The descent was about 5 minutes down easy slopes on the left side of the wall to the lake. We made our approach after climbing Prusik Peak by passing by the Mole and stuff then after our climb of the wall down the Toketie drainage. III 5.9 Dirt, pro to 3 inches Make sure you trundle some shit while you are up there.

Nothing south facing really. Everything else looked better... Thinking about something up in British Columbia soon... Maybe if I can get some others to go... ..

What line was to poach I'm not greedy anyway. There was plenty of good snow everywhere... Lots of people on Herman too.

Table mountain snow was perfect. Lots of people but fresh runs were to be had for anyone desiring so. My camera froze up so I didnt get any action shots. Not that I was going to post any here anyway. I bet it's still good today too.

My gay lover was yo mamma ho

There are a lot of misconceptions on your part Caveman. First and foremost, most guides would love to guide things like Ptarmigan Ridge or Liberty Ridge. Not only that, they would not be particularly hard trips to sell. Many clients are not "gapers." In fact, there is a percentage that are high end. Unfortunately, these routes will not be open to guides unless the Park Service changes their policies... Which it looks like might happen based on the article which started this thread. In Washington State, the North Ridge of Stuart, the Serpentine Arete on Dragontail, the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, the Coleman Headwall on Mt. Baker, Frostbite Ridge on Glacier, and even routes like the East Buttress Direct on South Early Winter Spire are guided many times every year. These are not necessarily the hardest routes in the state, but they are moderately difficult and are not for those whom you are calling "gapers." Were the Willis Wall in Chamonix, it would definately be guided. Guides have a slightly different mindset than the average climber. They take pride in getting people up moderately hard climbs safely. Most guides receive a great deal of training in order to bring people up into the mountians safely. There are thousands of people being guided in Washington State every summer. More likely than not, you can only come up with one or two incidents involving clients or guides getting hurt in this state off the top of your head. The whole idea that guides are in some way unsafe and get people hurt on a regular basis is ludicrous. On top of that, the idea that guides are not in shape and cannot climb hard is also a myth. Outside of the state, the Cassin Ridge on Denali has been guided. The Nose and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome are guided in Yosemite all the time. The Black Ice Couloir in the Tetons is guided. Hard ice and rock routes around the country are guided every day... When knocking guides and saying that they're gapers or out of shape, think about people like Steve House, Alan Kearney, Jim Nelson, Topher Donahue, Crag Luebben, Miles Smart, Doug Robinson, and all the others you're knocking. Every guide I know is looking for challenging guiding. They are looking for things that engage both them and their clients. Your analysis of the guiding scene in America is not only ignorant, it's simply not based in reality. Jason I never said they were not guided. I also never said all clients were gapers. My comments were made to spark some debate thought and bullshit. You have included some of all but don't attack me with your know it all self righteous bullshit as if I am saying anything totally serious here. What a putz