Cpt.Caveman

pinkpoint

Climbed Chinaman's Peak NE Face today. Pretty good views and got some nice photos. Tomorrow Fred, Bob Iginlia (sp) and I are going to head into Victoria for a possible climb on tuesday. I hope for good weather. Lata homeys

I am in Banff spraying at the library now Fred B and I just did the direct variation 5.7 of Eisenhower Tower yesterday in good sunshine. 11 pitches mellow stuff on my first leads of limestone. Weather is good. No new snow for at least 4 days or longer. Good luck Robson looked mighty grand from my summmit yesterday. What to do next

BP shut the fuck up cunt. I know who you are duh. Why do you even care what I think?

quote: Originally posted by To The Top: That is one cool pic! Which way did they go? Nice mountain. TTT I dont know for sure. They are probably walking in now to their homes and the dudes aint wimps either. Althogh I heard the icefall was a mess and avoided I am sure the route will be the "standeard one" for this side of the peak. Matp wake up and tell us soon!

Back to the top as this might be the best ascent I hear of for the year

What about me fairweather Kill Kill Kill

Raf and I rapelled the forest more than twice and he a ninja climber although he wont admit it. Bouldre probs at Horestooth are stellar and way hard. My fav Boulder problem was there and a simple travers in sneakers but oh so hard for me and 100 yards long. Great stuff!

quote: Originally posted by Bianca Piaggio: I know I'm going to regret having asked this question, but why does this Caveman guy have a bizarre fascination with F. Beckey? Fred is the baddest mofo on the planet is why. Just try andsend half the number of routes he has done. He already has sent Whitney this year and went on an exp this year and ice climbed more than 20 pitches I bet. he's a walking time machine and a master of rock and alpine. Just try some more of his routes is what I have for advice [ 08-03-2002, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Route or fun you ever had climbing and why? Sometimes it is the experience and route and sometimes it's the views and the moves or whatever for me. Some of my favs- Cathedral Peak in Sierras (simply the best rock and easiest route) Hike along PCT from Stevens Pass to Glacier etc (partner was a champ and fun getting eaten by all the bugs) Angel's Crest at Squishyland (too hard for me to lead but long good route with the best partner possible) Prusik to Boxtop ridge traverse (Mostly the Monument prusik ascent! I liked it so much I did it twice!)[you have to check this one our in person to understan] Slesse NE Buttress with epic descent (big route with new partner too, learn more about mtns] NR stuart [just good and fun] Exasperator crack climb in Squishyland (just look at it) Brass Balls following (moves are incredible) Snow Creek wall OS first time (first multi pitch stellar route) Midnight Rock Flame Apron route (adventure) Battered Sanwich at Index (flail bad and send stoned) Princely Ambitions at Index (a good spicy lead for me) Midway at Castle Rock first time (always classic sandbag) Canary at Castle Rock (seal flop every time) Forbiden Peak (just look at it in person) Internal Bliss at Tieton (tunnel through the rock and outright fun) Triple Coolers on Dragontail (without knowing I could lead the cruxes and commiting to it and doing them with a partner I had never climbed with before) The endless bike rides to bouldering/soloing at Horestooth Reservoir daily Brag all you need [ 08-03-2002, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

009 fred sez it is the best when mixed with 2 week old cheese Of course it is the best!

Thanks trask and sk I hope to send these 2 peaks if possible but logistics are in the air to my knowledge. If not the backup plan will go into effect

The hardest slab I ever tried to follow was at Index was lead by a partner of mine over 50, a way hardman old schooler I met in the parking lot one day. He freed astroman in 1979 being the largest dude to fit in the harding slot after his ascent. Mentioned the beta for him was wearing a slick shirt He aint no small skinny guy and is about as mellow yellow as they come. He eats 5.11 for breakfast Wham was the route at Index. I know it's not 5.13 but very good and tough (I never finished it and no shame either)! Zoom is a spanker too! Here is the tough guy leading 5.12+ sport at Little Si for breakfast http://www.alpinelite.com/images/ray/Technorigine.JPG I have seen him onsight 5.12a and he has done 5.13 as well. Likes trad and still climbs with me even though my max is near 5.6. Way cool dude! [ 08-03-2002, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Good luck catching dru all yas. If all goes good I will be offline for 2 weeks starting tomorrow afternoon to do some climbing in da rockies Let's see if Trask can catch up!

another clearer one from forbidden ER and about a week older than the last -

Sounds like a trip planned by Beckey had a couple of folks climb up the peak via a new route ! Maybe mattp was part of the succesful summit team!! Cool I await the return and would not mind seeing the cool photos! [ 08-03-2002, 09:13 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

From sharkfin tower I think. 4 weeks ago or less.

I dont believe TS is 5.9 unless you lead the first 10 feet. Have fun!

whatever. Have fun

Got until sunday mornin to call. Latas

Word up havin fun adn still will call it one of my fav friction routes around. There is friction no doubt. How many feet until cracks or should I say how many cracks did you actually need for pro on the last 2 pitches! and was there any friction in between [ 08-02-2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

UT couple of friction moves out on the slab for me. Done it 4 times already. But hey if you found jams all the way cool. No friction on the upper knobs of 2 pitches de slab. Slingin horns for me either Whatever you be the man since I was working a 12 hour day [ 08-02-2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Highlander,Tell this guy to chill out then, he does not know he is old and that shit is crazy yet. He's been on large mountains before my dad was born!-