Cpt.Caveman
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RE-I think mattp was just commenting on the stark difference in conditions between then and now. I didn't detect any antagonism. It's an awesome photo in any case, and thanks for posting it. ******************************** Maybe so. I just read it like it was mostly talking about Pyramid Peak. I dont have any desire to climb Colonial at the moment and am not personally eyeballing it. However I did like the looks of the EF of Pyramid Peak... Which if the snow conditions were better then I might have considered returning to climb the E or N Face.
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some dude named James. I'll ask my bud when him and that guy come back from Canada next week.
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It doesnt surprise me that *you guys* climbed it. Right on. That takes balls and determination. Too bad you lost your skis.
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RE-Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.) ****************************************** It has been repeated..........
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They're all Facile until you have an unplanned bivy.
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re-Both Colonial and Pyramid were a heck of a lot icier than that when Daylward and his buddy climbed Watusi a couple of years ago. I may have a picture of Pyramid somewhere, with FAT ice on it. ********************************************** That's cool Mattp, this was just a friendly photo report for those interested. I guess I'll just keep future ice reports to myself. People can drive up there yourselves to check it out. Personally I 'm sick of people responding in the fashion without thought. I never said that Colonial is in and mentioned that there was a possibility it could be in shape soon. Meaning next month or so. I do think that Pyramid was in and climbable but if you want to debate that then I dont really care to. I prefer to leave that frame of mind for political debates. Thanks for the photos forrest.
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marble canyon conditions; new years day
Cpt.Caveman replied to Don_Serl's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Texplorer and I climbed up there for a couple days. It was fatter than I have ever seen on the deeping wall. Icy BC lean but lead Waite for Spring area was fat Dihedral lean Cayoosh- Synchronicity ice all the way down but 45 degree temps we did not try it Carls berg there but lean Loose Lady there but hard looking Tube there but very hard looking Rambles some stuff too Closet Secrets not all the way in El Nino not there all the way Some guys did Oregon Jack and reported lean We came back last night. -
Or you can tell us the other famous landmark\structure named after Plummer.
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BCMC member is not a valid answer. Actually not sure if Don Serl climbed it (almost a sure guess as Beckey though haha) Would not surprise me. You'll have to prove that to get your 12 pack.
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I see you were looking at Drew's photos with hanging peak. Har har. That's not in my photo.
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I dont beleive Fred ever climbed the left peak. Although he did snag the right one first. You have one peak name correct. You also have the number of times the right peak was climbed (or been know to have been). There are only 2 mountains in the photo not 3 as it appears. However that only boils down to once correct answer. Good guesses!
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For cragging- set of nuts 6-7 cams to 2.5 inches unless it states you need larger in book 12 carabiners 8-10 slings double length belay device nut tool Alpine- 8-10 slings double length 10 carabiners as least amound of cams I think I can get away with set of nuts and or some large hexes belay device nut tool Fuck the daisy chain it gets in the way and is just bullshit, tie in with the rope it's stronger. Hardly use cordellete unless I am toproping, slings work fine in most situations. Alpine easy routes 8.5 edelwiess rope 60m. More strenous routes 10 mil rope. I think the only time I used 2 ropes besides ice climbing is on Slesse in case weather crapped out we would have bailed faster. I have even climbed on a 30 meter line in alpine. Much saved weight but sacrifice rappels and forces quick climbing (running belays).
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Dru and Don Serl excluded! Name these two summits. Then the right one how many times it's been climbed. Then name one person that climbed the left one. First one to get all the answers without cheating gets a 12 pack of beer!
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RE-Yes, Cavey you are welcome. ************************** I'm not Harry Pi. I got a good suspicion who it is though I'll not be there since I have a party to attend. Make sure someone pukes on allison for me Then tomorrow off to ice terrain with texplorer!
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buy bigger rock shoes. Or cut off your toes. Of course it's not good!
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sneakers might be the best choice if you are not encountering snow and or glacier (even then they might be best). five ten guide shoes, la sportiva boulders, garmont sticky weekends, etc
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wE HAE YOU BZZZZTCH
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There is no retort. I agree. I have faced slopes with friends and walked away many times in 2 years, I got sluffed on and my shit was buried 2 years ago. I try to be wary.... You never know! Just beacause nothing happened 1/4 mile away does not mean it was safe....
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Integral Designs bivy sack (unishelter)
Cpt.Caveman replied to Cpt.Caveman's topic in The Gear Critic
It still rocks -
The climbing destination is hyped by magazines and videos. I bet both groups would honor a ban. But to imply the money from the indians' casino as an alternate debatable income would one be an insult to them and two may or may not be true. It's one of those topics that can be debated forever. There are some nice cliffs for climbing in less than a 30 minute drive in both directions..... And GRANITE!
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I have climbed at Cave Rock. I respect the rights in such a small area the natives have. If they ban it then they should be respected. There are a lot of bolts there (yes I clipped some) but if it is indian land that is already tarnished by a road going through it then think of the money they will demand for the "destruction" of a historical and other site they claim it is in the future. There are plenty of rocks around Tahoe that are better anyway.
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Right on fern. I'll be in touch if all else fails. Duffey skiiing is killer I bet. I'd even do a trip there too as I know the area a little. Drew must have left today with danimal and erik and other crew......
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Ok I'd even go to Hyalite. Just want to get out of avalanche hell. Sierras ice and skiing sounds enticing too. I have family in Reno for a stay or 2. I'd even travel for some rock climbing...
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Re-More knowledge does not, by itself, make you safer Knowledge does make you safer but not immune. If you know what knowledge to process and remember. It's education that will help but it is not the "savior" we all wish it could be. Not to be a nitpicker but let's keep it real too. Otherwise nobody would take or process any information about avalanches and their works. I did notice the "by itself" clause.
