RE-Well, I remember some Barry Blanchard comment to a Nepal liaison officer or some such, about the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat being something like having sex with death. So there, that's as good as I can get you when it comes to a real alpinist. I'm just a weekend dabbler myself, try to mix it up when I can...
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I climb all the gaper routes and sometimes they feel like Nanga Parbat shit. I still don't see DFA doing that so he's got to be more of a gaper