Peter_Puget

One more thing a route you never want to bivi on:Regular NW face route on Half Dome

Oops! I forgot to mention bivouacs are a cool way to avoid those damn early starts! PP

Well said Roger! Being high on a climb and seeing a new day dawn is a great experience. With that said here are a couple of great bivi sites. Note if you use these site you will be awarded with a great time but your climbing prowess will be in question. 1. Ledge at the bottom of the last pitch of Space Shot in Zion. Your friends will wonder about you but in good weather its just like a sleep in the campground. The ground is but minutes away (an easy a1 pitch with trivial free climbing and a few rappels but being its fun as hell. It took alot of persuading to get my partner to agree to this one!) 2. Big Ledge on NE Buttress of Sleese. In early season make snow cones and check out the BIG face. Super cool location. Again your friends will think you wimpy. Ayway I say Bivuoacs Away!

I agree with those saying buy some TCUs. One thing to remember about all the talk concerning wieght is that for most Icicle climbs, in fact most climbs in general, it is really not going to be a big factor. PP

Hey there is no culture growing in my arms! I am squeeky clean. Bobinc - Maybe it's why we have time to post!

What's a "Chica" A new burrito treat?

“Porr Spelling and grammer reflect porly on are sport” Is there some way to possibly put a spell check feature in? CC.comers [myself included] seem to be handicapped with regard to basic spelling and grammar. While in such a congenial forum such as this only a bore would condemn another on the basis of such errors, my concern is with how this reflects on the “climbing community.” At least we need the ability to correct/modify topic titles after they have been created. Please the NPS, the Forest Service, various unions and others are watching us. How will we be judged.

Ok Indulge me. Those concerned with "fairness" please help me to understand you rposition what does fair mean. I didn't seem to read the definition for unacceptable. But surely such a critical keystone of yoru argument must have an unequivocal defintion.

Good question Dru! So do I need to bring along one of the gun toting CCers to deal with those pesky bears?

I didn't say anyone has to be nice. I just had a crush on Allison since she use one of my favorite words (deign)an now my fantsay bubble has burst. [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

I suggested an aid "Curriculum." Any suggestions for a free route training guide?

Nope! Dru when someone is making a clear ethical judgement such as "fair treatmen"t they should know what they mean. Those saying that the use of some labor is unfair are making clear statements about the "goodness or badness of other indiviuals - they are not saying it is a shade of gray. While we may all have difficulty defining when a pot of cooling water turns from hot to cold, we share an understanding of the condition we call hot. I would say unless Allison can define what she means her own understanding isconfused and some may choose not to deign to engage her in a debate. After the definitions of hot and warm are better defined then we can chat about what lukewarm means.

I remember looking at my partner's shoes thinking that I would have "Vibram" embossed on my forehead soon. WT was a good route to learn how to hammer stuff. I bet it still is fun just different.

Well I thought this would prove to be an interesting topic. Guess not. Well here is my attempt at a basic aid list: Easy one pitch clean aid routes at Lower Wall @ Index. I guess some of these might best be done on a weekday or rainy day. City Park A1Iron Horse A2 The n Join Sag. for a second pitch. Easy semi hanging anchors to practice hauling set ups.Stern Farmer A1/210% first pitch A1/2Japanese Gardens first pitch: never done it on aid but as a mixed free and aid pitch it has wide cracks and thin cracks along with bomber pro. Upper Wall Routes:Town CrierGreen DragonIncision – nailing? SquamishUncle Ben’s Good hanging bivi, fun hook moves, several mixed pitches and a traverse as well. Wrist Twister? Is this route still a nailing route? Where is there a good place to practice pendulums?

Well I actually meant it more as a hypothetical than specifically me, but let's say I wanted to go do the Salathe, Zodiac and West Face on El Cap. Plus some of the well known free climbs.

I am trying to get in shape (both physically and technique) for some big walls in Yosemite this fall. Any ideas for a list of training routes that will allow me to progress from flail to success?

Hmm with that description maybe I did find it. Not very inspiring. BTW I asked Dick about it several times and he seemed to think it wasn't so great either. RAy -An hour approach yikes sounds like an alpine climb! Post a pic!

This is mostly an attempt to get Will to fill in the blanks. I have only been there twice. Once climbed "Free for Some" and "Pipeline." Both not very good. Went back and climbed Blownout in a snow storm Great route! Any body have any suggestions as to what other routes might be fun?

Hey if you did that I couldn't wear my green tights any more. Is it in the guidebook? Fossil is a pretty fun place. I think Existential is ok. Not great but pretty fun. The rock is a bit grainy esp. at the top. Can't seem to remember the crux. The .10 crack on the Bale/Kramar route is much better!

Am I the only one who finds Caboose awkward and not fun? I agree with SC as far as Illusion Dweller. In the old Beckey guidebook isn't Thin Fingers rated .10c?

Haireball - Any good beta on finding it? [Pivotal Moment] I tried before and couldn't! Carnival crack is not a typical OW. It has irregular edges (ouch!) and is nothing like a Yosemite wide crack. I'll remember Black Widow. It has been on my list for awhile. Thanks for the suggestion. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Is Beacon closed right now? Do your listed routes dry out quickly?

I think I might have done that guy but I'll have to check a guide to be sure. Here is another recommend probably morepopular than the others I suggested but Yellow Bird on Midnight is great fun. Anyone ever do Wall Steet? What about that O.W. squeeze near the mouth of the Tumwater? [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Dru - Hmm Don’t think I have climbed Empire State. Tell me more. Yep that’s the name - Condo Corner. Ray – I’ll have to ask Viktor for that topo. ChucK – Bob’s does have some great routes. Does the 5.9 you are talking about climb and steepening buttress.? BTW the crack rated 5.10a (with the hole) is really 5.11. Short crux but a bit rough texture. And it’s easy to TR. Good pro for leading too. Really fun lieback/jamming.

Spring is but hours away and with it comes a new season of fun in the sun rock climbing. I have climbed most everything that really interests me as far as cracks go at Leavenworth but I sure if I was less ignorant I’d have a tick list the size of my arm. So forgetting the classics, what crack climbs are worth doing that are more off the beaten path? I’ll start it off with a couple of less well traveled recommends: Lazy Boy 11b: Bottom is scarier but easier than top. Top is strenuous but not too technical. Scholar w/ A Dollar 10b: Starts off scruffy past a couple of bolts but then turns into a great steep splitter crack crux. ???? .10: I forgot the name but it starts out of a cave high and right on Careno crag. Fun stemming with a face finish. Has anyone ever found Pivotal Moment? If so is it worth doing?