Peter_Puget

Trying my new one out.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: You are a gaper if you have a name of a climbing company in your online name like oh, say, um, Dru'teryx or something, not that anyone would ever be lame enough to actually have a name like that.

I don't think Pope was saying on style of music is better than another. Wasn't he just giving an example of what he considered a bad band. An example that I don't agree with by the way. As for Skinny Puppy, on the "industrial' spectrum (along w/ NIN I might add)are in the "clerical" section far away from the heavy industries.

Can't confirm the Nat king Cole thing but but then I didn't hear any Skinny Puppy either. Which by the way you must have brought up to embaress Dru as they are by far the most effete and worthless group ever to come from Canada. After reading a favorable review in the Rocket I made the mistake of buying a record. It is one of the few in my collection that I never made it through. Speaking of old Vancouver bands here is a trivia question for Dru: what does SPK stand for?

Darn! Pope you're begining to irritate me. Here we haven't had an exchange in sometime and now I am going to agree with you (at least with regard to Twight and the church lady). And I have even climbed with him.

PDX - If my teenage son threatened someone on a trail and got punched out I would have a very short supply of sympathy for him. Even less for a threatening canine.

Psycho is a fun pitch I remember using TCUs on it. It may be a bit sandy early in the year as it was a bit last autumn.

If I remember correctly you do not need to bring along much big stuff despite the climbing being in a chimney. I wouldn't be surprised if right now the corner pitch on Iconoclast and parts of Hyper were a bit damp in spots. The Iconoclast corner is in my opinion the most difficult to lead. Also, I think this climb has been way way over-hyped. After you climb it, let us know what you think of it. [ 05-16-2002, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Hey I agree that the picture is in bad taste. I would yank the thread given the ability. Why hasn’t it been removed is an even more vexing issue to me. It seems like such “moderation” would be easy. Certainly if the pic was turned into a poster and placed a bar chances are that the barkeep or a patron would remove it. Additionally, cheap shots and insults made to those who can defend themselves are no less acceptable. To decry Moutainman’s posting and not other posts shows a complete lack of empathy and imagination.

Replacing manky bolts (assuming their placement was valid in the first place) is always a good idea. It boggles my mind that there is even a question of it. Those who wish to enjoy the thrills of manky bolt ladders can use my soon to be released "weak as shit" 'biners. Until I find the proper liability insurance, their doubles can be purchased through retailers such as Lowes or Home Depot. Look for the fancy colored biners in a bin near where keys are made. PP

Lamb – I wasn’t accusing you of anything - just giving my opinion and asking for yours so I can better understand what you mean by “the character of the route should be somewhat preserved.” It seems that it could be argued that 1/4" bolts are in some sense a defective technology. As far as fixed gear: what if removing all the fixed gear made the route impossible to climb clean. What if it changed the rating to C5? Does the original rating of the route have any implication on the nature of the fixed gear that is acceptable? Erik – As far as the guy who placed the bad bolts – we should all give him a beer or two for all his efforts. Very few people seem to be willing to make much of an effort in helping to maintain routes. Feels bad? He shouldn’t! He went through a ton of work placing them and when he found out they were defective he posted a thread about them on Rec.climbing (where I first heard of this) and then had to listen to the internet BS machine crank up and slam him. I was amazed how much BS was thrown his way when he should have been praised. Your point on fixed gear is well made. PP

A nice new button head properly placed is, on a bolt ladder, as effectively bomber as bomber can be. I don’t think it is a case of making the route too bomber. The replacement protection should be a long-lived as possible. I say use 1/2” stainless. In fact I’d go so far as to say 3/8” is irresponsible. Besides if a stud does break it is possibly impossible to clean out, so over time the use of 1/4” will lead to more degrading of the route. The fixed gear throughout the non-bolted sections of the route clearly have changed the character vis-a-vis the FA time than the replacement of old bolts on a ladder. - both visually and difficulty wise. Yet where are the complaints? Question for Lambone: I just did a FA and by error placed a ton of defective bolts. Should the bolts be replaced with defective bolts? Good bolts? Does my opinion as FA matter? What if my opinion can’t be determined? PP

The real question is why a Squamish site has a groovy L-Worth route as its prize photo! Pope you are a youngster! The recent sporto controversy is nothing compared to the reaction when we first uncovered the top of Jello Tower! The fear was the trees we were chopping were going to take out a car on the highway.

What climb is this guy on? http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/stories/squishgrade.html

Hi, poptart here. Me and Bonzo headed over to 11W yesterday morning for a small gathering of the KTK and Ladies Auxiliary and Tea Circle in hopes of finding sunshine, clean granite, and no crowds. When we arrived at about 11:30, we found some sunshine, and no people! Thought we'd take advantage of the lack of gapers and head up to Purina Crag. Got a few routes in before the weather turned poopy on us. Wandered back down to the car, gazed blankly at the guidebook, and watched the weather vaccilate between overcast and rainy and dumb. Decided to trust the weather to continue to be stupid, and headed to town for some fine vittles at Gustav's. Feeling refreshed, we headed back up the Icicle to set up camp, and hopefully enjoy better weather Saturday. The Eightmile CG was full of RVs so we headed up near the Bridge Creek CG (BTW the gate is open to go up to 8mile and Colchuck THs) and set up camp. After an hour or so of smoky fire and blowing rain, we broke camp and headed to Rat's house. It was nice to sleep indoors since it poured all night long. The weather did not disappoint us, it was stupid as we thought it would. It was wet and crappy this morning, so we headed back to the other side of the hills. It was not raining at Index, but it smelled like it was about to. You know, the "wet" smell. Thanks to Rat for the hospitality, and I hope that the hordes of other cc.commers heading to 11W thought better of it, and went somewhere else. It is definitely early spring right now. See you at the gym this afternoon.

Trask, what do you care where it is? You won't show up, and you don't live in Tacoma!!

The thing is, NachoCheese, this is their life. Kind of pathetic, eh?

Ole Peter goes away for two days and misses out on a new thread on a new subject. Not to imitate my old friends Pope and Dwayner but let me tell you how it is: Bolting cracks! It’s a no no guys. Forgetting all so-called climbing traditions- it’s a no no because “climbers” have traditionally made representations to land managers that the use of bolts is/should be limited to situations where natural pro is unavailable. Now I can see where there couldbe large areas of gray but in 99% of the cases this is not the case. If unnecessary bolts were placed on Ingalls,I say get rid of them. The acceptance of truly unnecessary bolts merely shows that climbers cannot be self-regulating or are simply dishonest in their dealings with land managers. In any case it is an invitation to more regualtion. AND provides ammunition to those against climbing. I should say that I consider some fixed anchors as exceptions to this rule as do many land managers. For example,as a means to reduce erosion see fixed rappell points as a solution. Another example would be the rappel anchors off many popular alpine peaks. Think Prussick. A series of ugly slings. Wouldn’t a series of 1/2” SS anchors that would be discrete as well as lasting 30 years be preferable? I say yes. I know I have said this many times but AlpineK have you talked to those bad boys at Index or the Icicle. And if not, have you made attempts to? Dru - There is a special equation useful for determining whether or not a yo-yo is a valid ascent. So much like bolting it all depends. Peter

So Allison, you don't even mention me in the Pub Club TR. I thought that you wanted poptart. And poptart you will get.

Grrrrr. How I long for the days when pope and I were mortal enemies!

Hey! Is this thread about me or Dwayner?

OK If you dont get a guide here is what I recomend. Go tot he top. The routes up there dry off much more quickly than the lower routes. Next follow trails towards the west and north and start workign your way down. Its a bit more of a traverse than I expect everytime. At one point you kinda scramble down a short section (very easy) and at the bottom of the scramble there is a short wall look for two bolts. From here head down and south. You will soon be at the bottom of the Powerline Wall. I think Smoots Guide will get you there. If there was a longer period of good weahter behind us I' d say go to the Orange wall but I am sure those routes will be seepy. HAve fun the place can be gorgeous!

Ok Put a collection up so that Pope and I can go off to the Met. (or other establishment) and we'll enjoy a tastey meal and a good bottle of wine.

I am me! Now that Pope and I are buds maybe we should team up and take someone climbing. ALright step up and make your bid a day of climbing with Peter and the Pope! Pope - What do you think is a good cause. And if you say crowbar I'll kill you.