Peter_Puget

I suggested an aid "Curriculum." Any suggestions for a free route training guide?

Nope! Dru when someone is making a clear ethical judgement such as "fair treatmen"t they should know what they mean. Those saying that the use of some labor is unfair are making clear statements about the "goodness or badness of other indiviuals - they are not saying it is a shade of gray. While we may all have difficulty defining when a pot of cooling water turns from hot to cold, we share an understanding of the condition we call hot. I would say unless Allison can define what she means her own understanding isconfused and some may choose not to deign to engage her in a debate. After the definitions of hot and warm are better defined then we can chat about what lukewarm means.

I remember looking at my partner's shoes thinking that I would have "Vibram" embossed on my forehead soon. WT was a good route to learn how to hammer stuff. I bet it still is fun just different.

Well I thought this would prove to be an interesting topic. Guess not. Well here is my attempt at a basic aid list: Easy one pitch clean aid routes at Lower Wall @ Index. I guess some of these might best be done on a weekday or rainy day. City Park A1Iron Horse A2 The n Join Sag. for a second pitch. Easy semi hanging anchors to practice hauling set ups.Stern Farmer A1/210% first pitch A1/2Japanese Gardens first pitch: never done it on aid but as a mixed free and aid pitch it has wide cracks and thin cracks along with bomber pro. Upper Wall Routes:Town CrierGreen DragonIncision – nailing? SquamishUncle Ben’s Good hanging bivi, fun hook moves, several mixed pitches and a traverse as well. Wrist Twister? Is this route still a nailing route? Where is there a good place to practice pendulums?

Well I actually meant it more as a hypothetical than specifically me, but let's say I wanted to go do the Salathe, Zodiac and West Face on El Cap. Plus some of the well known free climbs.

I am trying to get in shape (both physically and technique) for some big walls in Yosemite this fall. Any ideas for a list of training routes that will allow me to progress from flail to success?

Hmm with that description maybe I did find it. Not very inspiring. BTW I asked Dick about it several times and he seemed to think it wasn't so great either. RAy -An hour approach yikes sounds like an alpine climb! Post a pic!

This is mostly an attempt to get Will to fill in the blanks. I have only been there twice. Once climbed "Free for Some" and "Pipeline." Both not very good. Went back and climbed Blownout in a snow storm Great route! Any body have any suggestions as to what other routes might be fun?

Hey if you did that I couldn't wear my green tights any more. Is it in the guidebook? Fossil is a pretty fun place. I think Existential is ok. Not great but pretty fun. The rock is a bit grainy esp. at the top. Can't seem to remember the crux. The .10 crack on the Bale/Kramar route is much better!

Am I the only one who finds Caboose awkward and not fun? I agree with SC as far as Illusion Dweller. In the old Beckey guidebook isn't Thin Fingers rated .10c?

Haireball - Any good beta on finding it? [Pivotal Moment] I tried before and couldn't! Carnival crack is not a typical OW. It has irregular edges (ouch!) and is nothing like a Yosemite wide crack. I'll remember Black Widow. It has been on my list for awhile. Thanks for the suggestion. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Is Beacon closed right now? Do your listed routes dry out quickly?

I think I might have done that guy but I'll have to check a guide to be sure. Here is another recommend probably morepopular than the others I suggested but Yellow Bird on Midnight is great fun. Anyone ever do Wall Steet? What about that O.W. squeeze near the mouth of the Tumwater? [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Dru - Hmm Don’t think I have climbed Empire State. Tell me more. Yep that’s the name - Condo Corner. Ray – I’ll have to ask Viktor for that topo. ChucK – Bob’s does have some great routes. Does the 5.9 you are talking about climb and steepening buttress.? BTW the crack rated 5.10a (with the hole) is really 5.11. Short crux but a bit rough texture. And it’s easy to TR. Good pro for leading too. Really fun lieback/jamming.

Spring is but hours away and with it comes a new season of fun in the sun rock climbing. I have climbed most everything that really interests me as far as cracks go at Leavenworth but I sure if I was less ignorant I’d have a tick list the size of my arm. So forgetting the classics, what crack climbs are worth doing that are more off the beaten path? I’ll start it off with a couple of less well traveled recommends: Lazy Boy 11b: Bottom is scarier but easier than top. Top is strenuous but not too technical. Scholar w/ A Dollar 10b: Starts off scruffy past a couple of bolts but then turns into a great steep splitter crack crux. ???? .10: I forgot the name but it starts out of a cave high and right on Careno crag. Fun stemming with a face finish. Has anyone ever found Pivotal Moment? If so is it worth doing?

I'll second the recomend for Spiderman.

Here are few that come to mind: Vertigo - EldoradoFire & Ice - EldoradoOld Gray Mare - CastleApron Jan - MidnightSometimes a Great Notion - MidnightPressure Drop - IndexThe Line - Lovers LeapWolf Crack - Donner SummitBlown Out - BeaconKone head - Quin KoneheadNE Buttress CathedralPinky Paralysis - Yosemite

The one drawback to Pumpline is the veggies growing out of the bottom 3/4ths of the route. On thing about the crux is that the jams are bomber, not very technical, and yet it is still hard. Whenever I have done it I think "Heck I must be screwing up I should be able to just pull thru and grab the top!" And instead I am having to moan and groan to pull up.

Here is something interesting: (Particularly about our here Lomborg) March 12, 2002 One Year AfterNow it’s Europe that’s getting cold feet about the Kyoto accords. By Michael StandaertBRUSSELS - Exactly one year ago, on March 13, 2001, President Bush informed four senators that he would not attempt to ratify the Kyoto protocol on climate change.Under the treaty, industrialized nations would have to cut emissions of carbon dioxide, the main greenhouse gas, by an average of five percent from 1990 levels by 2012. Signers would have to implement measures to reduce greenhouse emissions (a different amount according to the output of each country) by 2005, with further reductions due each year until 2012. Eighty-four countries, including the U.S., had signed the protocol in 1997, and 46 countries had either ratified or moved to accession agreements by December 2001.Bush's reversal prompted noises of outrage, shock, and regret around the globe. Europe was particularly aggrieved, declaring that Bush's decision laid bare his administration's unilateralist tendencies. But a year later, the complaints have been largely muted. For all the outrage of a year ago, Europe has offered little more than lip service on Kyoto since then, aimed mainly at mollifying Green and Socialist voters.On March 4, the European Commission adopted the decision to ratify Kyoto. The lackluster European Parliament added its vocal, though basically only symbolic, support in early February. This is all well and good and makes Europe look "progressive," but most of the bluster has been just that. Little of substance has been done on a Europe-wide level, and even if the European Union ratifies, implementation will be a murky task. Only five EU member states-Portugal, Spain, Luxembourg, Denmark, and France-have ratified the protocol, and none have officially sent their letters of commitment to the United Nations, hoping they will ratify in force at a later date. According to U.N. documents, no EU countries are in accession agreements. Environmentalists are hoping on a Europe-wide remit to agree on joint ratification during the March environmental council meetings, which would give the EU a push of public sentiment as it goes into the meetings of the World Summit on Sustainable Development in Johannesburg in late August. Still, all agreements on the EU level to ratify the protocol would have to go through the legislatures of each state, which is not a speedy task.Meanwhile, because of the European Commission's rotating six-month presidency, there is not much continuity in Europe's leadership. Belgium held the presidency up until January 1, when Spain stepped in to take over. Spain is interested mainly in issues of EU enlargement and the war on terrorism; there has been little talk about the environment. Between the Commission meeting in June and the Johannesburg summit in August, the presidency will pass to Denmark, which moved dramatically to the right in last fall's elections.Perhaps most important are the jitters behind the scenes in Europe's governments about just how much implementing CO2 emissions trading schemes would cost. Several states are divided about whether to make the trading schemes mandatory or voluntary for businesses during the three-year lead-in period starting in 2005. (Mandatory schemes of implementation were one of the chief problems U.S. negotiators had with the protocol.) According to the Belgian environment minister, Magda Aelvoet, there is "a blocking minority" able to hold up mandatory implementation, including powerhouses Britain and Germany. Germany and the UK saw their CO2 emission rise for the second year in a row last year, mainly from the continued reliance on coal-fired power plants. And they continue to build more.Even smaller countries that have long been pro-Green are getting cold feet. In January, Holland was warned by its bureau for economic policy that the emissions trading scheme would be too expensive. Denmark wants to redefine its target emissions cuts, which had been set abnormally high because a harsh winter had rendered the 1990 base-year emissions measuring-stick unusually high. (Denmark also appointed Skeptical Environmentalist author Bjørn Lomborg an environmental economic advisor in late February, causing shock in many Green groups there.)Japan, Canada, and Australia seem ready to stick with the U.S. position, though most European environmentalists aren't ready to believe this. If the EU goes into Johannesburg without ratifying a Europe-wide agreement, the effect-in the words of the World Wildlife Fund's Stefan Singer-would be "disastrous" for the protocols. Most other world support, it seems, would shift to more voluntary strategies. And to become officially binding in international law toward implementation, 55 countries that account for 55% of emissions would have to ratify.Since its formulation, observers have accused the Kyoto protocol of being a paper tiger. Whether that tiger is endangered or extinct will likely depend on the flexibility and strength of the European Union.

W - Substitute "sport climbing" for popular culture and the usual assortment of "tradition police" for the "traditionalist/highbrows" and the essay is really scary. BTW I loved the part about the reprobate Hobbitt fans in Khazakstan!

Heres a good link on commercialism: http://www.reason.com/0203/fe.cf.in.shtml

Surrealistic Pillar Direct @ Lover's Leap. Split Pillar is out because it's merely thuggish liebacking

Sold for a "Friend of a Friend"!

Any bids on the original vinyl Duck Stab EP? I need to make room for more Dereck Bailey discs! [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

If the weather really is bad, ask for directions to the artificial hwy routes in Palm Springs. They have some really long traverses and some "mirror" routes where your start in the middle and traverse right (or left) and then you start again and traverse the opposite direction. It is funny how different sides find the same move more difficult than the other. Anyway if the weather is really bad it's a fun way to spend and couple of hours.