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Lambone

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Everything posted by Lambone

  1. Good stuff ya got there Jay. I new a kid who broke his back when he fell pulling over the buldge on a climb in Hylite canyon. He cam off with a huge diner plate and decked out, fell more that 100ft. One idea that comes to mind is this: be redundant with protection. On rock, if you are at all skeptical about your placement, rather than screw around trying to take it out, just put in another piece. That way you have two. Prhaps equalize them with a sling. If you are too pumped to put in another peice, and you know its only getting harder, we'll that might be the best time to back off. On Ice, using two 9 mil ropes I will often place two screws from one stance, with a seperate rope through each. The theory being that if the first one blows it should slow you down a bit, and you've got a fresh (non-loaded) rope to catch you at the next screw, without much slack out. Plus you might already have a good stance and be all set up to place screws, so double it up, then run it out with more confidence. I find myself doing this more the harder it gets. [ 10-03-2002, 04:20 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]
  2. Looks like an arial photo of St Helens.
  3. quote: Originally posted by iain: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: some dick was posting those photos of the special olimpics, but I figured what's the use, people will say and think what they want... I don't think the two are comparable at all. Why not, Scott works with child abuse victims, my sister is mentaly ill and has participated in the special olimpics. I think our feelings toward the sarcastic "jokes" were probably a bit similar.
  4. quote: Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: Hey, it could have been pornographic rather then violent... Either way, Scott sits from upon a very high horse... No, I work with kids who get physical abuse at home. They don't think it's a joke either. Yeah, maybe I'm being overly-sensitive about it, and maybe I saw the sarcasm, but from where I dwell(which isn't up on a high horse), it's not a funny subject and I refuse to silently let somebody, even jokingly, advocate abuse of children. So, if you think "Also, if small children laugh at you, just kick them in the teeth when their parents aren't looking" is funny... Fuck you. I didn't think DFA was funny either, but playing internet cop is kind of a lost cause, especialy on this site. I had a hard time holding back a while ago when some dick was posting those photos of the special olimpics, but I figured what's the use, people will say and think what they want...
  5. oh blah dee blah da
  6. They should get in touch with the folks at Barrel Mountaineering in Bozeman, Mt. Those guys put on a hell of an icefest.
  7. Hey, it could have been pornographic rather then violent... Either way, Scott sits from upon a very high horse...
  8. I have a plastic and foam helmet. Last inter I got hit hard by ice with the plastic one. I haven't worn the foam one since...I just don't trust it, it's worth carrying the extra few ounces.
  9. Deeds, Maybe your right, but I don't see how critisizing someones choice of words is very appropriate either. It just seemed minor by the way Erden it was described, I shouldn't make assumptions. I was just looking for clues as to what might have created an impact force that was great enough to pull big cams and break a biner. [ 10-03-2002, 12:06 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]
  10. what kind of sucker would buy a bosch for 800 dollars? My bro in Bozeman got his full set up for four hundred...
  11. Didn't someone mention that The Fisher Chimneys route has an arrow painted to mark the correct gully? Ever hear of the circuts at Fontainbleau? I guess there are arrows pointing to a sequence of boulder problems... Grafiti if you ask me...
  12. Matt, It sounds like you want something brighter than the LED lamp such as the Moonlight or Tikka (about the same in my opinion). If so I'd go with the new BD Gemeni for the price. The LED bulb saves your batteries, and the Halogen Bulb kicks out the ultra beam when you need it. A bit heavier...but well still better than any Petzl with a halogen bulb.
  13. quote: Originally posted by erden: Well, this arm wrap belay is a new thing we teach at the Mountaineers, NOT! I know none of this is one bit funny, but you got a laugh out of me there Cheers
  14. quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: i think anyone can get the mental picture of what happened, why dwell on the matter. ya, perhaps to get some information about slipshod equipment or something, let it go, a person died and you are blindly pointing fingers and undoubtedly making some people upset or anxious, and hey australopithocus, what is to speculate about the outcome?! (shrug...) Just participating in the discussion with everyone else fella. It seems to me like Erden has chosen to talk about this with us, why should important details such as the belay be ignored? I'm not pointing fingers, just wondering what "I did throw my left arm into the lead line to press it closer to the ground as I did crouch." meens, and why someone would choose to do it? Doesn't it seem weird to you that a fall that generated enough force to break a carabiner and pull three big cams, only gave Erden a minor robe burn on his arm? He says that he didn't even feel it pull on his belay device... I don't know, call me whatever, I am just one to look at it from all angles. If the questions I am asking are upseting people, well...sorry. I guess I'll just shut up then.
  15. Erden, I have another question. Please don't think I am casting blame, doubting your skils (which I do not know), or acusing you of anything. It seems you did everything you could have possibly done as a climbing partner. However, I am confused about this statement- "I was belaying with a Petzl Reverso. The belay action was delivered by the one loop around my arm, and I did not feel much pull on my belay device." What's up with the arm wrap? Was it just some sort of strange natural reflex inorder to take in slack, or something else? This reminds me of an experience I had back in '93 or so when I was new to climbing. I was belaying a friend on a sport route, he went way left off route, skipped a bolt and ended up in a bad place with a long runout. He fell. My gut reaction was to yard in slack and jump back, 'cause I thought he might deck out. Pulling in the rope perhaps sped up the pendulum action of he fall and he smacked pretty hard against the rock, but didn't deck. He hurt his hip, and yelled at me for it. What I did was just instinct, it happened in a split second, but to this day I am not sure if I kept him off the ground, or made his fall worse. Anyway, I guess what I am asking is what went through your mind during the fall, and if you intentionaly wrapped the rope around your arm? Or did it just happen before you knew what was happening? I understand this is a tough question to answer in the face of a great tragedy, and if you do not wish to reply, no worries. I guess I, as I'm sure others as well, have just been drawn into trying to form a mental picture of what happened out there. I'm not sure why, but I am compeled to ask, and try to learn from this terrible event. Thanks.
  16. That big snowfall must have been in the second week of september. The only place where we could see the new snow was on the glaciers though, it was totaly dry everywhere else. what a freakin drive, the prkwy blew my mind!
  17. The rope is just as much related to the accident as anything else in the belay chain. Nevertheless, static ropes are not easy to mistake for dynamic, and I doubt thats what happened.
  18. oh, hehe...I knew that! it was my first time to the range. um, well we returned on the 23rd, so I'm not sure what it has done since then. But here is what we saw. The weather was great for the first two days we were there while we were figureing out what we were going to do. Then as soon as we started climbing it be came unsettled. Rain showers below 8,000ft, and snow flurries above. Plus it was really windy up above tree line, on exposed ridges and stuff. Nasty enough that we decided that the summit wasn't worth the suffering. It was nice down on the glaciers though. Two weeks before we arived a big system moved in and put down up to 5ft of snow in some high places like Abbots pass hut. Then it was sunny and warm for a week, things settled out and melted quite a bit. The glaciers were mostly dry with some windblown pockets of snow. They were either blue ice, or firm snow crust. We didn't feel that it was nessecary to have avy gear as we didn't see any sign of recent slides. The trees were turning color, the huts were empty...and it was really nice, just a bit cold. I'd head back again in mid-september. The rock routes loked steller...next time.
  19. yeah, didn't think it would be static, I was more interested in the diameter and perhaps the brand. I have been experimenting with different size (mm) ropes in the last few years. And the type involved tin this accident seems relavent considering that the rope is such an integral part of the whole system, perhaps the # 1 factor regarding the impact force put on the protection, a long with the belay technique... Let us know if you find out, it would be appreciated, thanks. [ 10-02-2002, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]
  20. huh? you been to Stuart before...whatcha talkin about willis? I'ts probly pretty chilly and on the verge of raining, or snowing. The ice cliff glacier was rumbling all day two weeks ago. If you're serious then please be more specific...otherwise buger off mate.
  21. Good choices, fill out your set of Rocks, they are sweet.
  22. I am also curious about the rope and belay device used Erden...just for curiosities sake...
  23. quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: Hey Lambone, is a cell phone included in the ten essentials? only when my wife is along. it wasn't included on this last adventure. you got a problem with that?
  24. yeah, my bag doesnt have any flint or steel wool... on one trip up there we left the first aid kit behind, just bringing an ace bandag and some tape. Of course, since we did that, C slipped on some talus and cut her hand up real bad...we had nothing to clean it out or patch it up with...damned if you do, damned if you don't
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