Lambone

Ha pretty funny there ace, you must think you're real smart now. BTW-anyone whom just recieved bogus PM's can disregard them. Nice try sucker...

kill jon!!!

"Considering what he has been through, Sunday he is feeling much better." Not to mention this: I'm okay That's why Do I have to remind you of your first post to this thread? You wanna swap stories about ankle injuries...I got a good one for ya, until then shut yer trap drama queen. I am aware of how I can help prevent this from happening to me, what I am curious about is how it happened to him... [ 10-28-2002, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Hey Mike, Was there any sign of what happened with the rap anchor?

So is this the same reason that My Profile is not working? Ban the Lurkers...

NO!!!! For those of you CC.comers who haven't yet had the opportunity to climb in Hyalite Canyon, imagine Bridge Creek Road in Lilloet being closed at the mouth of the canyon. Sure you could still get to Nightengale, but damn... Even more important, spending hours in the darkness digging your rig out of a snowbank with a tiny shovel should be every Hyalite ice climbers rite of passage. Please sign the petition! Ummmm, well if someone finds the link to the petition, please post it here! [ 10-28-2002, 11:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

yes

give us an example

whatever dood, Sportiva sent me a new pair of K2's no questions asked...

Anyone ever see the old Moore flick on the Depression in Flint Michigan in the '80s? Depressing and hilarious at the same time.

no. I don't think falling on one piece would stretch a rope to the point of being static. of course there are alot of vairables, like how much rope is out, how dynamic the belay is etc..., but as was stated in the accident thread, it takes alot to strtch a rope to its maximum capacity.

quote: Originally posted by Beck: Lambone's comments about mm ropes/lower impact forces generally holds true, doesn't it? Thinner ropes less impact force, twins an even lower impact if clipped into one piece? This is just one small contributing factor to this whole topic, still it that might mean Ehmmic's rope choice is an OK one for her? Yes, although freeclimb9's point about the variablity in rope types is also true. 90% of the time thicker ropes have a higher impact force than thinner ropes. Yet sometimes the opposite is true. Take Sterling Marathon ropes for exmple. their 9.5 Marathon has a higher impact force then their 10.5 standard. Sterlings #'s are quite odd, if you have ever looked at them. Different types of rope construction have different types of elasticity, but geneneraly speaking, thicker ones are typicaly less elsatic. Regardless, I think putting good peices in is the most important thing, and doubling up on gear if one is questionable. You can get ropes with low impact forces, and biners with high open gate srength, but that won't make up for crappy gear. The falls I have seen taken on screamers have never generated enough force to strip any of the stitching out.

I haven't read all of these posts, so I may be repeating someone...but, In theory a new 10 mil rope will typicaly be more "static" than a 9.6 mil rope right out oof the bag. That its they typicaly have a higher impact force rating. Although there is alot of variation between rope comanies and other variables. If you fall and your first piece blows, yes the rope will be stretched, but it by know means be static.

Hey colin, thats a good point, I still have the old ones. Maybe you should e-mail, or call up Yates and let us know what they say...

too thin my ass

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by mattp: Cavey, Please forgive my ignorance, and the fact that I am too lazy to go back to the old threads on this topic. But I am wondering: is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style? I think people believe it's more pracitcal. Less energy wasted type of deal. Look at me I am cool and leashless. Thats funny, I was TRing leashless on the Deeping Wall last year and people were giving me shit like I was being a show off or something.... I was like, man just try it, it's way fun and not really much harder...on TR at leas

yeah, I like to try it on TR whenever I can...i think it does alot for your technique. plus you can shake out more and get the blood flowing to your fingers better, kinda like when cimbing rock. try it on TR when you get a chance mattp, you'll dig it.

Thats great ruski...but until you climb it, you don't have much to brag about...go take your own piks and come back when ya got somtin good for us ya hea...

shit now come on...do you really think I'd glisade black ice with crampons on

no prob wit sum alumi 'poons yo

who the hell would ever glisade on their ass...??? we evolved with two feet for a reason...to ski! [ 10-24-2002, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

mostly a matter of style, not to look cool, but it changes the style of climbing quite a bit, mostly different types of resting techniques and such. Some argue it's safer on steep mixed routes cause if you fall you won't end up hanging by one arm and tweaking a shoulder. People that say that mixed climbing is aid climbing are kinda funny. Of course it is, but with one major difference. Any patient fat bastard can aid climb, but the people doing steep mixed routes are strong as all hell especialy in the mid section. Aid climbing in aiders is easy, aid climbing overhanging rock and ice with tools is fuckin hard! leashless or not... [ 10-24-2002, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

the thought of tennis shoes now is making my toes cold! [ 10-24-2002, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Robs post was from July Bronco

damn...thanks kyle, were gunna bivi.