Lambone

nevermind gimpy, keep the skull picture! [ 10-11-2002, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I'll give you 25$ for your haulbag...

surfin' talus, woohoo!

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: [QB]I didn't win an F'in thang. I liked when he hooked the two tools together and then to the harnes for a rest. Very creative. QB] I won 2 t-shirts. Gee. But resting on his tools? Cheating! (Did you notice the velcro on his chest and shoulders?) I gotta rant here for a second, I think people that want to critisize the funky/crazy mixed climbing we saw last night just kinda missed Seans point. It seemed that he loved it because there were no rules, it's all about experimenting and coming up with cool creative new shit. Aid climbing or not, he doesn't seem to give a shit cause its all fun! I wish I was stronger... or I could be like popeye, only with HC instead of spinach!

quote: Originally posted by dkemp: I resent that. I know the woman that got the ice tool - I havent talked to her in a couple years and I cant imagine she's into ice climbing now but she's definitely not a dope - she's a very cool person. My friends won some stuff. I wont argue their dope status but you can bet they will use their new stuff. You got what they call Sour Grapes Syndrome. No big deal, and I know my forehead vein is bulging, so I'll chill now. Good show - way to go, FF. It's cool she won it, but she didn't seem exited at all, shit people who won chalk seemed more stoaked. Fuck I woulda been jumpin around screaming and breakin shit with my new tool! But I really wanted those Sportiva S's Thanks for the beer FF, way cool

Hey gimpy, find a new pic man, this one is mine!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed canary my first time with hexes and stoppers. I took a screamer too Not sure the pro was tricky for me I'm not saying you need cams for canary, although they help... I just thought that the runnuots were a bit long and you had to look around for good placements, above the "airy step" at least. It's not hard climbing, I just wouldn't recomend it as a first lead...

that sounds interesting, who is giving the talk? oh, nevermind... [ 10-10-2002, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

yeah, it was pretty melow, but I only get on a bike a few times a year so it was just good fun!

I rode the Devil's Gulch trail last weekend. It's some of the best stretch of downhill I've ever been on! [ 10-10-2002, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

very snowy and cold in the Winds in November, access may be an issue. We once got schooled by the weather big time in early October...

wahtever dood! I been the skull since jon added these silly pictures, get lost! [ 10-10-2002, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

cool show, thanks FF aand Sean! makes me jones for travel and big alpine routes! that leashless tomfoolery looks crazy! [ 10-10-2002, 11:15 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: Slow down and be more carefull of what you grab on to and step on... glad your ok Yeah, that's the obvious, I was doing that. The rock wasn't loose when I knocked it, one of those larger blobs of rock embedded in tuft. Clearly the biggest lesson learned here is to be more careful and thoughtful, I am the one who pulled it (not the thousands before me). Still, seemingly solid holds can pop, and I'm interested in how to minimize the consequences... I see b-rock, but I ask, what if you had been roped up? Would you have fallen less far? Or would your fall possibly cause your partner to fall as well? Yes, in some circumstances it may be wise to short-rope and use quick hip belays. The choice to do so depends on your comfort range, route conditions, lack of light, etc...Also, if rappeling is an option, maybe this is the smart choice. But I'd argue that on most 3-4th class terrian maybe more dangerous because pulling the rope on such terrain may result in stuck ropes, or rockfall(as you mentioned before). And short roping on uncomfortable terrain only endangers both members of the party, unless protection and belays are used. So I'll reiterate, on 3-4th class terrain I typicaly remain un-roped, slow down and chose my route carefully. Stay close together, or way untill people below are out of harms way before going down. Expect that you will accidently dislodge loose rocks, and anticipate the consequences. I would say that ussualy this is the faster option, and is not nescesarily more dangerous, however...like allways it just depends on several factors. Your topic is a good one, and the question is important, and possibly may adress one of the biggest "grey areas" in climbing. Descending this type of terrain, especially at the end of a long day in the mountians may be the most dangerouse aspect of climbing, and therefore scares me the most. Just ask my partner from the East Ridge on Forrbiden. On the descent of the NE Face I was quite nervous and uncomfortable, perhaps as scared as I have ever been high in the mountains. In that case we chose to use the rope, and put in what protection we could find. I felt much better with the rope on, my nerves were calm and I had better focus. Yet in the back of my mind, with 50-100ft pendulum runouts, I knew I was not really any safer, it just meant my body wouldn't end up 1000ft down on the glacier. Again, I am really glad your fall didn't result in injury. [ 10-10-2002, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

is it at 7 or 8, whats the dealeo?

Hey DFA, this thread is about Trad climbing, either get out or shut the hell up cheers

quote: Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: So you've got some vacation time that has to be used in the next few months and not much money. Where would you go? Ice climbing? J-tree? Ouray? Tahoe (gambling!!!) Red Rocks?The place must be driving distance, and remember not much money to burn. Ok so I'm trying to get ideas here, there are just so many good places to go, and I can't decide what to do. But I know I'm going to be climbin' or doin' some other winter activity. Where would you go and why.......... I haven't read all this thread, so I may be repeating someone... My parents live in Tahoe, so I'd stop there on my way to the Valley. But Tahoe isn't a good place to be if you don't have much money...I'd get a good dinner from mom, go shopping for canned chilli, and pack the hual bag. Then drive to the valley 4hrs) and get straight on El Cap, don't fuck around with Camp4. Spend 5-7 days on the PO, Mescalito, the Muir, or trade route of your choice, then drive home in a push just be for work on the 11th morning. This has allways been my trip of choice.

BTW- might be better to post this kind of good info in the "gear critic" forum so it doesn't get lost in spray. then again I'm sure trask will chim in about blowing urathane!

sounds cool, how warm are they?

Slow down and be more carefull of what you grab on to and step on... glad your ok

his slide show was great last year, got me all psyched to go slay ice, too bad it's only early october, what a tease!

Toast, The GNS "standard " route is great, although often crowded with people learning to lead, best on a week day. I have even seen people aiding up that route... Also there are some good short easy leads at Exit 32. On the British Isles and and in the Woods that can be lead easily with passive gear. I can't remember specific names. Saber is a great one, becarefull on the first little section, I've seen people deck there. I wouldn't recomend Canary, the gear is not exactly straightforward, get some other stuff under your belt first. Vantage and Tieton have some good cracks (you'll want cams), just be sure to sew it up!

After our experience this summer (which turned out to be "free") we decided to inquire about rescues in Canada on our honeymoon. The folks at the Alpine Club of Canada told us we would need rescue insurance or run the risk of being charged for it. I think many rescues in the US are "free," it just depends on the place, and rescue facilities involved. Needless to say, having to be rescued sucks and people should avoid it at all costs... The American Alpine club only covers rescue costs below 20,00ft unless you pay extra,and only up to a certain $ amount. While I was in Nepal an experienced guide on our team claimed that if you don't put $ up front to a helicopter service in Katmhandu, your chances of being airlifted out were slim. He put $ down for himself and his client before our trip. He had been lifted off multiple peaks in the Hymalia...so I took his word for it. [ 10-09-2002, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

people that climb at smith rock are pretty fun to make fun of as well BTW- I drive a Civic hx (44 miles to the gallon) and I cut my dreads off 5 years ago. [ 10-09-2002, 11:48 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Good point Hamboner; however, for Prusik, once you hit Viviane, boom, you're there. Plus the trail to Asgaard is a scree fest; trail from Snow Lake is better. cool, i am just thinking of hiking the loop (colchuck to snow creek pk lot)soon. Are you doing it in a single push from trailhead to trailhead? I have been thinking of doing this; PM me if you're interested.yes, but you'd havta appologize for all the spray you dished out to me over the last year. I want a seperate written appology for each incident no, i will probably either go solo, or with my nazi hiker friend glen, no offense...some other time maybe