Lambone

wow...awesome! thanks for reporting that Forest! 5.9 R/X way back there sounds terrifying! way to go!

DUDE! Dear Mr Extremo, You must gimme a shout out next time you go! You know I live about 30 min from that trailhead right? Word...looks fun! Medford girlscouts are all hotties, all you Seattle geeks are missing out!

I suppose, if you enjoy punishment...personaly I like to stop and spend the flowers when i'm in the mountains, never in much of a rush to get back to civilzation...

Alex is pretty right on there, go to the lake on the way in because it is more direct to Goat pass, then on the way out go straight over Longs Pass. I have done this 4 times and a differnet way each time. The first time we stashed bivi gear at Ingalls Lake. Bad idea, it is a very long way from the summit back to Ingalls Lake and it turned into a mini epic. Second time we approached via Longs pass and set a camp in in the valley next to the river, basically at the base of the descent gully. The next morning we awoke early and did the whole ridge and were in the tent by 11pm. The two other times since then I carried over and bivied, on Goat pass and on the Summit. This is a good way if you can pack light and can climb 5.8 with a 25-30lb pack. You need to haul the packs on the Gendarm, which is not too bad. Getting on the route is pretty straightforward, crest Goat Pass, drop down a short bit and head acroos the Glacier. The Approach gully sucks, just be carefull with the loose rocks. The descent isn't so bad. Don't go straight down, that is Ulrichs. Head east to the East (false) summit of the peak and go over it. You drop down a steep snowfilled gully facing south east. Down a ways you need to trend right over a shoulder to get into the Cascadian Colouir Proper. It looks good to keep going straight down the big obvious gully, but it cliffs out and puts you way east of longs pass, don't miss the Cascadian (source of my first mini epic on Stuart). Lost more good info on this site, run a couple of searches, have fun! Matt

yikes, very sorry to hear about...

By the way, did yall hear that our very own, Mr. Bigwalling summited El Cap for the first time a few days ago? Took on Mescalito for his first route and 'scent the fucker...right on!

cool, more free pitons!

The guy you are describing, "tall, skinny, long hair", sounds like Tod, who is one of the nicest climbers I have ever met, in Seattle, or anywhere for that matter. You may think he looks like a "freak" in your eyes, but if you take the time to say hello and chat with him for a minute, you'll soon find out he is one of the friendliest, most modest and unassuming climbers around. Perhaps it is you who needs the attitude adjustment. FF is not know for it's "in your face" costomer service, and in my book I think that is a good thing. If I wanted to get hasseled left andf right I'd just go to REI. However, if you do need help the guys at FF are some of the most knowledgable around, there isn't much doubt about that.

I'm totyaly serious about that. if I ever see his pile of shit laying in the talus at the base again I'm going to take it. at the very least i'll hide it somewhere and make him sweat it out for a while, then give it back. I don't want bad karma. he chucks his bags off the top, not only endangering climbers at the base, but creating a huge mess for the bears to paw through. that's bullshit.

can you believe that guy...what a fucking tool. Link the friendly climbing ranger (Tool). Politely suggests following the rules and not leaving food for the bears, in order to "not give climbers a bad name"... ...and waht does Pete do, ....he comes on suggesting we shoot all the bears, and he is being serious. what a fuckin prick. Somebody needs to bitch slap that guy.

that route should be chopped, I volounteer to help do it.

must be a chick involved in that plan...

ethical??? gimme a freaking break. dude, share the cliff with everyone else, just because you are better or more experienced then someone else doesn't give you more of a right to be there... If you don't like waiting in line to get on climbs, don't go to popular areas, it is as simple as that. If I sound a bit abrasive it is because I once ran into some assholes in Washington with your attitude. My wife and I took my friend Tom on Saber for his first rock climb ever. He climbed in between us and my wife cleaned the gear, but he was very slow climbing. A party came up behind us and started bitching at us for bringing a beginer up a multi-pitch route. I was like fuck off the climb is rated 5.4, if you are too cool for it go somewhere else and leave us alone, we were here first. ok, end rant. One funny thing that happened was that when we got to the top...Tom was shocked to see the descent trail and asked us why we hadn't just walked up to the top! He was honestly mad at us for not telling him there was a trail to the summit! sheesh...

yeah dude, were just bored at work, don't get your panties in a bunch!

The Terry seats are pretty good. I have a Specialized seat that came stock with my Roubaix that I really like. The mor eyou ride the less your seat will hurt your ass. Have fun!

why would anyone in their right mind want to climb up that!????

how many karma points do you get for returning a "bail" biner...seems more like an insult to injury to me...

"Whatever you do, take care of your shoes!" -Phish, thank you...you will be missed. "When you've reached the end of your rope, tie a big knot and hang on!" My friend and mentor Ryan Shreve, RIP

sorry, been there done that...it sucks

Hey, we were up there about three weeks ago. I think it took us about 3 hours at a pretty consistant, but not fast pace...thre was snow just above the parking lot, but melting fast. You'd be better off getting an early start when the snow is still hard. We both had leathers. The snow softened up and the toes of our boots got wet, but they dried out pretty quickly in the sun at camp. Personaly I think plastics are overkill on Shasta, but alot of people use them. Be prepared to hang out with lots of people! If you ever need a climbing partner for anything south of Eugene ivweme a hollar, I live in Ashland...would like to check out Calahans, Rattlesnake, and Castle Crags...

The trailhead is somewhat hard to find, just stick to the most traveled looking FS road. I wouldn't be able to give directions... Heard reports of icyslopes on the route so be prepared for that, with this heat lately the 'Schrund and crevases should be opening up. Some people do the route without a rope but I would recomend one. A week ago the rangers said the creek up in the basin was not flowing yet, but it maybe now...so you might need to melt snow for water. Pray that the wind God is on your side. Check this out: http://www.shastaavalanche.org/

cheap wine sucks, I'd rather drink cheap beer... kinda like crappy pot, I'd rather drink beer than have shwag also... good wine, on the other hand, is a different story, and something worth talking about...

Hybrid Alien ...either Blue/Green or Yellow/Green Can't tell you how many times I've plugged one of those in a nice pin scar to prevent a long fall after being run out on cam hooks for a while. I hate to leave them behind on a pitch, but sometimes it is the only sane thing to do...

blood is aid

I don't think there is a whole lot of opposition to chopping bolts placed next to perfectly good cracks. Except maybe from the dumbass who put them there. However by that argumnet somebody should chop all those bolts on Canary.