Lambone

Ok, maybe this thread has been done before... but, I keep this one book by my toilet and each time I sit down to take a crap I'm amazed about how much it sucks ass! Ever read any of: "Royal Robins- Spirit of the Age" by Pat Ament ??? Only if you pick up this piece of garbage for more than 30 seconds can you realize and appreciate how much it actually sucks. Like not only pitiful elementry school writting, but also blatant missinformation and lies. For instance, that Royal "devised" the use of hooks to climb over blank rock. What a crock of shit. I don't know who used the first hook, but I'd bet hard earned money that it was some old school Euro...not Robbins. The entire length of the book Pat Amets lips are so brown from sucking the dingleberries of Royals ass that it's almost humiliating. Anyway, just venting. The only thing that saves this book are the awesome black and white photos of the pioneers of Yosemite climbing, the reason it sits by my toilet and not in it... Sure Pat Ament was/is probly 100x tougher than I will ever be, but damn put down the pen fellow, before you hurt somebody!

NolsE, When i was living in Bozeman Mt my only means of transportation was a longboard. long story short, the winters are very long and cold there and they don't plow the roads...they just let the snow and ice pack down, so I ended up doing alot of winter riding. When my griptape on my deck got all snowy it had no stick to it. It would get very slippery infact, and just be coated in snowy/ice. So now you know. If you do it, probly gotta try and keep the tools out of the snow.

if your talikng plastic I'd go with Lowa's

wow....20% lighter is huge. i'd wait for the inevitable BD recall before buying into them though...

I bought a pair, but after wearing them around the house decided they were too wide for my narrow feet. So I retruned them. They look and feel slick though...i'd chose them over Sportiva if the fit was right for me.

I may be wrong, but I don't think so. I'm not familiar with where it is exactly...

From what I gather, they are working on that plan...the problem is where to park the cars and how to effeciently shuttle guests in and out of the Valley, and how to deal with all the RV people. I'm sure it is sort of a conundrum...because restricting access will indefinately decrease income from user fees, yet they will need to maintain a strong visitor base to pay for the system... I won't be suprised to see it down the road, much like the system at Zion. As long as they let my smelly ass and miss piggy on the bus it's all fine by me...

FYI- The Yosemite Camp IV restriction isn't new....it is just being enfored more strictly this year because they got a new computer.

allways sad to hear when bad things happen to fellow cc.comers and local climbers. RIP Rodchester.

yeah...hence the question... Thanks for the recomendation, although I'd like to think I was burly enough for such a marathon...I'd be kidding myself. I need some short approach weekend warrior type shit. If there are other climbers there...that's fine by me as long as they are nice. N Ridge of Triumph has been calling me for a while too...

Also add Snake Dike and Royal Arches to the list for classic easy/long climbs in stellar positions.

Stretch, Cool...sounds like you are ready! Go climb Outerspace or Orbit and that will give you a good gauge on what type of routes you'll be up for in the valley. When I was about 16 I wen't to Yos with a rack of 1 of each up to 4" here is what I climbed, all would be good: Nutcracker Commitment Braile Book E. But. of Middle Cathedral Central Pillar of Frenze Some of the popular routes like Central Pillar have all bolted stations. Some have all natural belays, so beef up on your belay building skills. Suggestion- try not to use cams at the belays. If you were to double up on sizes, I would say get a set of Aliens to double up your small sizes. With bigger sizes a set of hexs and a set of cams will be fine. Of course, if you can afford another set of cams, go for it. It all depends how comfortable you are with runouts.

thanks, Dru and Alex....I suppose I'm looking for somewhere in between a contrived/illegal sport climb and a Willis wall death route. The NE But of Colchuck is a good one...I wen't to do that with erik once but we ended up smoking a bunch of weed instead, go figure...

....in the Cascades this fall Alpine season, which climb would you do? I think I might be able to get 1 three day weekend to make the trek up to the North Cascades (from So. Oregon), thinking about abandoning my annual climb of the NR on Stuart for something different, but in the same caliber. I'm thinking: -Torment-Forbidden Traverse or -NR of Slesse Approach time is definately a factor since I will be adding a 7 hr drive to Seattle on ei9ther end of the trip... Also, which weekend is going to be sunny? You guys are all very lucky up there...by the way.

I would pretty much forget about sport climbing unless you want to climb some slabs up in Tolumne. If you have a rack of some nuts-hexs and range of cams you should be able to jump on some easier classic multipitch crack routes. Nutcracker on Manure Pile Butress would be my first suggestion. Don't be turned off by the name of the formation, it is a great climb.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=41522&f=25&b=0 here is a link to the supertaco discussion

yikes...wear helmets guys! that shit's for real. My best friend and climbing mentor dies last year from a head injury...decked hard...in the WATER while wakeboarding. Just wear it...

I hope this winter is like last winter...lots of Powder days in January...

it's comming, still sorting it all out in my head...the whole thing was epic. Mud was the flavor of the weekend!

FYI- your Nozone is going to get holes in it....

haha yeah, moderate to me means water ice 4-easy 5 maybe some easy mixed. On a stout 5 I'll take some leashes anyday... I think for harder (read steep cave) mixed climbing there are better tools, and if you are climbing hard water ice you'd probly want a real leashless grip, like the Ergo. You'll like the Vipers....I do, the only thing I don't like is that they have a tendency to flex when you put alot of weight on one....which is a little unerving. Once you put the Fang on you probly won't take it off, you need this tiny Allen for it. I leave it on, even with leashes.

jeeze relax buddy, this is the Oregon forum...

perfect singlespeed territory, any other SS riders out there?

The Boozeman Ice festival sucks...why the hell would you wan't to go to Hyalite on the most crowded day of the year? Not to mention, they try to hold the ice festival every year in November on climbs (Genisi and Sceptor) that don't form up well until at least mid december, then everyone hacks away on TR and knocks everything down. What a joke. Fuck the name droppers, those with names and photos in the mags...buy some cheap tools and go find some solitude and epic in the mountains. Ice festivals make me wanna puke. But if you had to go to one, go to the one in Cody. By the way, if you don't like my attitude, don't go to Mt.

This is not why I like Phish. This is one reason I like Phish...pretty colors a la Chris Kuroda. hehehehe