Lambone

You mean they arn't called...lightweight metal snap lock connectors? WTF

WOW Right on! I can't even imagine pulling into the meadow to look at El Capitan for the very first time....never have climbed more then 400ft off the deck, and saying, "fuck it, let's get on Mescalito." Then putting your money where your mouth is. Mad props to you guys, nice job! As will said, very jealous. Will, it looks like it's our turn to step up, eh? Mr. bigwalling definately earned his Avatar name on this one, and Tex, solid as ever!

Although I won't be able to make the 7hr drive up for this I'd like to be supportive, way to get things rolling! Speaking for an entire group of people with many different opinions about ethics and access will be very chalanging, good luck to you. Seems like ther have been some deleted posts and negativity going back and forth in the post above. It also, seems to me like Spliffy is asking a perfecly legitimate question, one I am sure many are also curious about. In my opionion your commentay is inappropriote and destructive here Greg, but thanks for chiming in.

That's cool, adventuresome, I like that!

And? Gee that's nice. uhhhh...were we supposed to be worried? ooooppppsss...I wasn't. Is there some sort of point here? Or just letting us know that our internet experience is now saved since YOU are back...praise the lord.

Question for ania....were you intentionally descending Ulrichs?

"afrraid to risk a long fall on two knife blades that pull out by hand...' fawkin bolting wussies.

True, but still, it doesn't hurt to welcome new guests here, you never know...mybe they ARE just as cool as you... Likely someone from Philly visiting the Cascades for the first time has never heard of Jim Nelson, his guidebooks, or the KTK. Anyway, have fun...that's my moto

Post deleted by Alex

I'll second the Std North Ridge of Stuart. It's worth french freeing the 5.9 and 5.8 Gendarme pitch if you can't quite free climb it, it is a much better finish then the variation. Second...would be Forbidden Peak, any route. You don't need 5 days to do either climb, but there are other good climbs in the area of both Mountains that would make for a good multiday adventure. Both are serious peaks and not to be underestimated...definately not a place for the first time alpine climber.

wow...awesome! thanks for reporting that Forest! 5.9 R/X way back there sounds terrifying! way to go!

DUDE! Dear Mr Extremo, You must gimme a shout out next time you go! You know I live about 30 min from that trailhead right? Word...looks fun! Medford girlscouts are all hotties, all you Seattle geeks are missing out!

I suppose, if you enjoy punishment...personaly I like to stop and spend the flowers when i'm in the mountains, never in much of a rush to get back to civilzation...

Alex is pretty right on there, go to the lake on the way in because it is more direct to Goat pass, then on the way out go straight over Longs Pass. I have done this 4 times and a differnet way each time. The first time we stashed bivi gear at Ingalls Lake. Bad idea, it is a very long way from the summit back to Ingalls Lake and it turned into a mini epic. Second time we approached via Longs pass and set a camp in in the valley next to the river, basically at the base of the descent gully. The next morning we awoke early and did the whole ridge and were in the tent by 11pm. The two other times since then I carried over and bivied, on Goat pass and on the Summit. This is a good way if you can pack light and can climb 5.8 with a 25-30lb pack. You need to haul the packs on the Gendarm, which is not too bad. Getting on the route is pretty straightforward, crest Goat Pass, drop down a short bit and head acroos the Glacier. The Approach gully sucks, just be carefull with the loose rocks. The descent isn't so bad. Don't go straight down, that is Ulrichs. Head east to the East (false) summit of the peak and go over it. You drop down a steep snowfilled gully facing south east. Down a ways you need to trend right over a shoulder to get into the Cascadian Colouir Proper. It looks good to keep going straight down the big obvious gully, but it cliffs out and puts you way east of longs pass, don't miss the Cascadian (source of my first mini epic on Stuart). Lost more good info on this site, run a couple of searches, have fun! Matt

yikes, very sorry to hear about...

By the way, did yall hear that our very own, Mr. Bigwalling summited El Cap for the first time a few days ago? Took on Mescalito for his first route and 'scent the fucker...right on!

cool, more free pitons!

The guy you are describing, "tall, skinny, long hair", sounds like Tod, who is one of the nicest climbers I have ever met, in Seattle, or anywhere for that matter. You may think he looks like a "freak" in your eyes, but if you take the time to say hello and chat with him for a minute, you'll soon find out he is one of the friendliest, most modest and unassuming climbers around. Perhaps it is you who needs the attitude adjustment. FF is not know for it's "in your face" costomer service, and in my book I think that is a good thing. If I wanted to get hasseled left andf right I'd just go to REI. However, if you do need help the guys at FF are some of the most knowledgable around, there isn't much doubt about that.

I'm totyaly serious about that. if I ever see his pile of shit laying in the talus at the base again I'm going to take it. at the very least i'll hide it somewhere and make him sweat it out for a while, then give it back. I don't want bad karma. he chucks his bags off the top, not only endangering climbers at the base, but creating a huge mess for the bears to paw through. that's bullshit.

can you believe that guy...what a fucking tool. Link the friendly climbing ranger (Tool). Politely suggests following the rules and not leaving food for the bears, in order to "not give climbers a bad name"... ...and waht does Pete do, ....he comes on suggesting we shoot all the bears, and he is being serious. what a fuckin prick. Somebody needs to bitch slap that guy.

that route should be chopped, I volounteer to help do it.

must be a chick involved in that plan...

ethical??? gimme a freaking break. dude, share the cliff with everyone else, just because you are better or more experienced then someone else doesn't give you more of a right to be there... If you don't like waiting in line to get on climbs, don't go to popular areas, it is as simple as that. If I sound a bit abrasive it is because I once ran into some assholes in Washington with your attitude. My wife and I took my friend Tom on Saber for his first rock climb ever. He climbed in between us and my wife cleaned the gear, but he was very slow climbing. A party came up behind us and started bitching at us for bringing a beginer up a multi-pitch route. I was like fuck off the climb is rated 5.4, if you are too cool for it go somewhere else and leave us alone, we were here first. ok, end rant. One funny thing that happened was that when we got to the top...Tom was shocked to see the descent trail and asked us why we hadn't just walked up to the top! He was honestly mad at us for not telling him there was a trail to the summit! sheesh...

yeah dude, were just bored at work, don't get your panties in a bunch!

The Terry seats are pretty good. I have a Specialized seat that came stock with my Roubaix that I really like. The mor eyou ride the less your seat will hurt your ass. Have fun!