Lambone

Hey spacedout, My partner had to bail on me due to work, so it looks like I won't be able to drop rocks on your head after all... And you won't be able to sue me for money I don't have. Anyway sorry I upset you, but you didn't have to go and call me a childish renegade. That hurtss man. It seems everyone agree's that you brought the spray upon yourself. Maybe this climb will do you some good, getting out of the office and all. Anyone need a partner this Fri-Sat?

All right enough of that!

no!

Hell ya forrest, well said...

I've got a story for yall, some more clutter on Spacey's thread! A few years back when I was living in Montana, a guy was charged with man-slaughter or something because he trundled rocks on a party below. It was on Granite Peak in the Beartooths. Two guys were up on top supposedly trying to clear loose rock of the top of the North Face. What they didn't realize was that a party was just starting the route a couple thousand feet below. Tragicaly one guy died. The judge told the guy that he could never climb again, and he'd be arrested if he was seen climbing. These are all the details I can remember.

I thought the Axars were really light and boncy when I demoed them. But I have heard some folks rave about them.

Ya those old guys don't know anything. I've upgraded The Free Blast to 11b.

Obviously you take the internet as seriously as your climbing! Yes, I am a renagade climber. I learned my tactics from Mad Max himself. I like to wear black leather and chains. And I bust out my whip whenever some one gets near me. Whats up with the age discrimination? Don't forget, I am not the one who offered my climbing resume...you are. And I said I will try Not to knock rocks on your head. And I meant that... I'm not trying to pick a fight here, I just think your comments are funny, and I have nothing to do until I head to work in an hour.

Ok officespace, obviously you have absolutely no sense of humor. I never insulted or threatened you whatsoever, you are just taking a bunch of sarcastic remarks personaly. Why don't you just stay in you cubicle where you will be nice and safe, and GET OVER IT. Dru, did chongo haul the Asian girl up the route!?

Good question Yossarian, yes it is something to be worried about! First, a static fall on to a daisy generates at least a factor 2 fall if not greater. Which is enough to severly tweak your back, and sends the impact forces on to your piece through the roof. The real problem comes when you daisy fall on a hard aid climb, you risk ripping the pitch. What can you do about it? I get my daisy off ASAP. After I bounce the piece above, and commit to it, I unclip my last daisy and flip the rope in. Once the rope is in you are golden. I have heard (from petzl rep) that spectra daisies are more static than regular nylon. Adjustable daisys may slip under a factor 2 fall. And yates now makes a daisy with a mini screamer built in. The best thing, get the rope in and your daisy off!

I second that. The PMI rep. said sharpies are fine.

Erik, Who upgraded it? It is still 5.9 in every guide book I've seen. And if they up grade that route, they'll have to upgrade every 5.9 squeez in Yosemite! But really fellas this is spacey's thread, quit intruding!

Hey spacey take it easy! I wasn't implying anything. I just thought it was a little odd that you would even compare climbing 5.9 at Little Si to an alpine route like the North Ridge. My fiancee can climb 10c at Little Si... but she wouldn't even think about doing the North Ridge. See what I mean? Its like apples and oranges. Don't get so defensive. P.S. Marshall at Feathered Friends has a good topo of the lower section. If all goes as planned I should be rolling out of my bivi sac before you make it to the bottom of the ridge. Will you catch me...? I think not. But good luck. If you do I will shake your hand. Peace. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

We are thinking about starting the ridge at the halfway point via. the coulior from Stuart Glacier. Does anybody out there know if it is icy in that coulior? I'd really prefer to leave the crampons in the closet! Hey officespace, I hate to say it, but I hope you've done something a bit more alpine than Little Si... Good luck. We should be a day ahead of you. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

Hey officespace, I am really sorry I intruded on YOUR thread. I didn't realize it was yours. I thought maybe anyone could post on it. That is just how this website has worked in the past. I will be sure to remmber not to post on YOUR threads again... Also, I really hope I don't get in YOUR way on YOUR climb. In fact, I will be real carefull not to knock any rocks of of YOUR mountain onto YOUR head. Since you claim to be a 5.9 hardman, who can climb any 5.9 anywhere. I would assume you could offer some beta on the Steck-Salathe route in the Valley. It is one of my "projects." Anyway, now that we all know you can climb any 5.9 at Little Si, you can relax. No need to impress any of us PNW hardmen anymore... Come on dude, by claiming that you think you are ready for the North Ridge because you you can climb 5.9 at Little Si, you are just begging for spray! I am not an evil person, I just couldn't resist. This is all just fun and games, relax... All sarcasm aside, the boys at Feathered Friends have some good beta on the Lower Ridge. They should be nice enough to help you out. If you pass me on the route I hope you have time to stop and puff a bowl! Peace Dog. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

Whatever dude, good for you. And yes, I will have fun biving on the route. Have fun on your sufferfest!

Is this a T-Klan only event, or are all welcome?

Cool, thanks Kyle!

Last time I was down we bivied under the walls after fixing ropes. I hear its illegal, but I've never seen Rangers up there. Maybe we were just lucky. If the rangers start to recognize you in C4, just go climb a wall, they'll forget after a few days!

Direct sun kills mildew. But I have never heard of anything that can kill the smell!

At least people won't be board at work tommorow. Namaste...

I see your point. I have never placed a bolt, rivit, or chipped a hold in my life. I am not interested in dangerous crag routes, or ones that are way above my limit. I don't go there, please don't start threatening me. (that goes for you caveman) My opinion is this: people shouldn't bolt routes only to suite their needs. They are basicaly commiting an act of vandalism on public or private land as it is. Therefore, they should bolt a route in a manner that is safe for everyone that has to look at them. I'm not talking about Vantage 2ft spreads. I'm talking about not hitting the ground. It is selfish, and wrong to do otherwise. Ok, sure... puting a bolt next to a crack is a different issue. It's lame, enough said. But in my opinion, if someone goes out and retrobolts a route, the damage is done. The scar is there. You might as well make the best out of it. What the hell good does it do to go out and chop a route leaving a gnarly hunk of metal in the rock, just to prove your point. If you say that bolts shouldn't be placed when you can toprope a route, well then hell you'd better buy alot of crowbars! You'll be up in the Icicle for months.

Burdo has told me that he's working on a project up there. But thats about all he said. The information might be confidential...

Fuck tests!

Slow and heavy, thats my moto, especialy on walls.