Lambone

Its hard to deny such a short approach. Looks like you could toss a rock from your car to the base. What can I say, I'm a fan of Alpine cragging, it must be the sport climber in my blood!

Yeah, we heard a monster rip through there while heading up to Forbidden in the late afternoon. Sounded like an earthquake! Remember Phil? You was there too... So both you guys say that you wouldn't do the NE But. again, but was it worth doing once? Would it be a good first "vertical bushwack" route, or should I warm up on something like Mt. Index first? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-23-2001).]

It's all in the name Aidan. Its attrackted evil spray all my life. You ever see the W.B. cartoon "Lambert the Sheepish Lion?" Oh, and some people think its cool to pick on Gym climbers... I guess we make easy targets. But I never spent so much time in the Gym untill I moved to Seattle, rain sucks. Peace Dawg! Vesper looks fun huh!?!? I wish I was going with you...

Very impressive fellas! It looks like a wild route from the Boston Basin. Would it be fun to head up the Cascade-Johannesburg couloir to the col. and then up the east ridge? Or is it not worth risking the objective danger?

One that will drive home for you! (The Nightrider)

"Dude, I'm beat." "Here try some of my honey and butter." "OK" [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-21-2001).]

hmmm...true,true. But ussually not as quickly! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).]

Don't be fooled, we are meerly priming you for your visit to the land of the evil spray loards...you will join the dark side! Have fun on your trip!

Carolyn, One more thing... I am just curious what you are planning on gettin' on out here??? Rainer, somethin' in the North Cascades, glaciers, rock...??? Again, just curious.

Carolyn, If you are really worried about checking our most valuable possesions, ie. climbing gear... you can allways insure it with the airline. Add a rack of Camolots onto the total price, just in case!

There is someone who posts on this site(I cant remember who)that says, "Put a high price on your head, cause rest assured no one else will!" Cheap gear breaks...

I don't know about Twight, but I am just to weak to carry alot of weight on long routes. Gu rocks! I enjoyed Mark's slide show, he paid alot of respect to his companions who have passed in the mountains. And he drank a flask of whiskey! It was funny when he ripped on the new "mixed sport-climbing" scene. It would have been cool if Twight had spent a little more time talking about emergency situations in his book. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).]

Lambone's beta: (not sure if you wanted this much detail, but here goes...) Great route, try and hit all the little towers! The approach is mellow (beware o' flies!), icy in the morning, no crevasse danger. Stash extra gear at the big Gendarme, and bury any salty stuff with big rocks! We did four single rope rappels (30m each). After the fourth rappel off two large red slings we then traversed, staying fairly high. We got a bit gripped so we roped up and were able to find ok to marginal gear here and there. Head directly across, and slightly up and you will run into sling belays about every 150ft. After about four ropelengths you will find yourself near the top of the first pitch of the ridge, downclimb it and you are home free! Thats how we did it, obviously not the only way. It may take a bit longer, but it keeps you out of the steep/dirty looking gully that Nelson mentions. Have fun! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).]

Caveys right, the sequrity gaurds won't like it if you are carryin crampons, ice axes, etc. on board. Avoid checking a big pack by itself. Instead, put it in a big cheap large duffel, that way the straps wont get torn off. I would keep my helmet in my carry-on so it doesn't get broken when the baggage handeler throws it off the truck! Leave the mukluks at home Oh yeah, leave the fuel at home too, and check with the airline about a stove beforehand! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).]

Yeah, no shit... That guy lambone is a poser He ain't worth talkin about. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).]

I second that, it reminds me of my favorite bar in Montana!

good riddens...

Now you are talking laughing climber!!!!!!

I'm with ya paul, FUCK THAT! Sure Vantage is home to the most overbolted piles of choss anywhere, but what good is it to bash the bolts in. Do two wrongs make a right? This topic will go on forever...

quote: Originally posted by hakioawa: That is ridiculous! Essentially what you are saying is. Pay more to support your local climbers. Why not put a big tip jar next to the cash register. Or a "Will climb for food" sign. Of course I'm going to buy something at the cheaps place. Do you know how much mark up there is on gear! Not just at the retail level. Sure the little shops may not get too much of it, but so what? How much do you really think a cam costs to make? Buying gear from the cheapest place has the effect of increasing the amount of gear people buy, hence increasing profits for the manufacturer. In the long run everyone wins because there are fewer middle men and the manufactures can take smaller margins. Yes, some shops will go out of business. Too bad. And why is everybody so down on REI? Good selection, OK prices and decent gear. Don't like it? Go to Jim Nelson's shop. The climbing community in the Northwest would be a very different and less interesting place were in not for the like of large organizations like REI and the Mountaineers. hikerwa, Hmmm... I'm not so sure that I'd agree with you here. If you want to go buy stuff from the cheaper .com companies, go right ahead. But be aware that certian brands do put alot of money into producing and testing camming devices. Also, in the outdoor retail industry, hardware has the lowest markup. Ussually no more than 40%, while soft goods and camping gear is allways marked up by 50%-65%. So when shops sell cams at special package prices they are ussually not making a whole lot of net profit, maybe 5 or 10% I would agree that the northwest would be a very different place without REI and The Mountaineers. Whether or not it would be less interesting I guess depends on your idea of what is interesting. Personaly I don't find large groups of Mounties being dragged up the most classic,asthetic, and easily accessable routes very interesting, just annoying. I don't think that heards of newbies sporting shiny gear that have REI tags dangeling off of them are very interesting. And I wouldn't say that the most interesting climbers at the local sport crags are the ones who just learned how to lead from an REI salesman. My point is that the marketing schemes of big companies like REI and countless others have comercialized and glamorized the mountains. They present the image that people who buy there gear can go out and do anything, safely. And they've succeded in drawing in countless costomers who would be better of playing golf. This is only my ultra bias/snobby opinion. Disagree if you wish. Call me what you wil, but I'll still think that buisness sucks, and will avoid it at all costs. I realy do like newbies, as long as they respect the mountains more than their new shinny gear.

Dwayner, Chill brother, I think you'd be jealous because I got Dan a poster signed by your favorit local legend/hero...thats all. It was just a harmless hint, I'm not sprayin on ya man. Love, lambone

Mazama Glacier, Adams

Dan, Thanks man, it was nice meeting you too! Stop by again when you get a chance, I've got somethin for ya. Lets just say Dwayner would be jealous! Matt

Wow dude...neighborhood fires, heart attacks... you've seen some pretty weird/tragic stuff lately.

That sucks...