Lambone

Thanks Fish, A meter of new snow may make this adventure more of a scetchy pain in the ass than its worth. I guess I'll just keep grinding my teeth, and wait. Are there any recomended sources of recent snow conditions on Baker? I didn't find anything in the personal web page links. Thanks again, see ya.

I'd assume that it might be pretty scetchy for americans over there right now... Would you guys agree? That kinda sucks for the porters and their families.

Just wondering if anyone has been up there lately? Are conditions still good for this sort of thing? Is the approach snowy, or would new snow be an issue? I've never been up there so any info would be usefull. Like where do park, and what trail takes you to the Coleman? Any "secret" beta on finding the best spots? Thanks yall!----------Matt [ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Nice site Dave, I like your photos. Got me all psyched for ice once more!!! [ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

We used one on Ama Dablam, it was damn good. I cant think of any complaints. I think the main difference is in the dimensions and the thickness of the floor material. but I'm not sure of the specs.

Leo climbed the face, they drilled the corner. Whats the problem? The face is still 5.11R right? He also goes out and climbs shit that has only been aided with his Ice Tools. Some trad and some sport(bolted). [ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by svilar: Anybody familiar with Missoula? I know there are less cowboys, but not sure about proximity to climbing. At least it's closer to the Cascades. Dave Dave, You'll forget about the Cascades once you live in Montana! (ok mabye not forget, but there is so much to do there, why drive) There is good rock climbing at Kooteni(sp?) Canyon, and semi Big Wall stuff in Blodgett Canyon. Glacier is right there, lots of Ice has been discovered up there in the last 5-10 years.The local hill is Discovery Basin. I hear its good terrain for a small area. Old lifts and all that... Plus lots of Awsome Backcountry skiing in the Bitteroots. It's closer to the good boating in Idaho if you are into that sort of thing. Missula is more of a city then Bozeman, and definately has a more diverse crowd of folks. More live music!! But no Hyalite, or Bridger Bowl...

HEY JON!!!!(can you hear me?) It doesn't seem that the PM indicator is working. Mine allways says 0 when there are new ones in there. Is that happening to anyone else? Just thought I'd let you know. Thanks...

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: 'nother vote for MSU in Bozeman. There is way too much recreation around there for serious scholars. Some highlights Lambone skipped: Jobs don't pay much Average High temp in January -80 Locals don't like folks from the PNW (yupies)Real Estate is too expensive lot's of alcoholic hunters in the back country up 'til x-mas and snowmobilers after that. You also better be expecting to adjust to "Montana Time". ie, if you are meeting a local to do some craggin at 8 am you are expected to chill out until at least 9:30. And don't be surprised if they befriended a hitch hiker in cowboy boots who's now going climbing with you. Ahhh, your bringin me back to the old days.... Some minor adjustments to your evaluation- -Locals don't like anyone from anywhere, especialy the east, even if they themselves were born in New York! -seeing Jack Tackle pull up to the Hyalite parking lot in his bright orange body suit w/a herum of chicks is definately a highlight! -there are no jobs, and every employee is expendable -the scene is changing, gor-tex wearin patagoochi lovers from the suburbs now outnumber the Rednecks and Dreadies

quote: Originally posted by lambone: Going once, going twice.... Sold, to the man in the yellow hat!

BD used to make this big 'ol biner called The Fin. It worked pretty good. The new clipper thing looks good, and a lot lighter. Ive just been using hotwires. I'd stop at Feathered Friends, right of of I-5 in Seattle. The should have them, along with 100 other ultra tech things that you'll want really badly!!

I enjoyed Montana State, Bozeman -Fat powder-Sweet Ice-decent rock climbing-great mountains-grizzly bears However, for those reasons I am still in school!

Going once, going twice....

Naw, were tight like that. We've delt with much worse together, plus I might get me new boards for X-Mas out of the deal! She had never skied before last year, and picked up the tele turn pretty well. I think learning to tele is almost easier for someone who has never been on Alpine skis before. It's harder to teach an old dog new tricks (so to speak). Would you agree? [ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Seeing snowboarders sideslip down a sweet line of powder does not make me smile... But just about everything else does. I devoted all but one day out of last ski season too teaching my fiance how to tele. I HAD to enjoy the bunny slopes, or else....things got ugly!! [ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Yeah, you right dawg...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: if you know how to aid climb you can probably figure out how to self rescue. Ummm...I'm not makin that conection. Could you explain that a bit more? What does standing in aiders placing pieces have in common with rigging rescue systems??

It's open, with limited hours. It tops out about 10 ft taller than Seattle, but there is less wall space overall. The walls have lots of cool aretes, corners, cracks, and other features. The bouldering area KICKS ASS! They are going to try and set all the routes with color coded holds...No Tape! BTW-It is usualy way closer to Tacoma than the Seattle gym (depending on traffic back ups). Also, the owner of VW is well aware of the demand for a gym down south. My assumption is that since the logistics of opening a large gym are extremly complicated, Bremerton must have had less hoops to jump through (just my own speculation). Mabye Tacoma is next?????? [ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Man... This is a great deal($100 off the retail price + leashes), somebody at least make an offer! Come on throw me a bone here...

Isn't it a shame that "want" and "can" are on oposite ends of the spectrum...HAVE FUN bro Jah!

Anyone who has only placed an Express screw will never know the true thrill of Ice Climbing...

I knew I'd get called out on that one, thanks Bronco! The problem with Freedom of the Hills is that it covers a too little of too many things. Know what I mean? It hits almost every topic, but not necesarily very well. The information in it is oversimplified and out dated. How much different is FoTH I from FoTH V? Not much.... new, modern equipment alone makes it obsolete. Don't get me wrong, it has a lot of great stuff in it, and its a good start. But it is deffinatley not the end all be all instructional book that people make it out to be. Some books that I'd rather spend my money on: 1. Mark Twights Extreme Alpinism - info on the real deal, this is how most climbers you see in AAJ do it 2.John Longs Anchors and More Anchors- gotta love Long 3.The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel(Crevase Rescue ??)- very detailed, cool drawings 4. Self rescue- a bit confusing, but if you've read it your one step ahead of someone who hasn't These books are detailed and specific. Go to Freedom of the Hills to get a general overview, but then read these books to get some information that is applicable in the real world. Of course, there is no substitute for hands on experience. Remember, these are only my opinions, and I am a nobody who likes many types of climbing, but exells at none. [ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

Sorry Brad, had to try... Good score on the Cobras. This guy Paul Dietrick seems to know something about an ice demo at Banks Lake. Here is the http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001087

Someday oh Jah one...

You win sloth... sorry hasbeen, I forgot to check the flyer for you.