Lambone

Check out the personal web page forum on this site. Also, check out the BC condition reports from last season on Bivuac.com, there are some nice photos to get you droolin! Feathered Friends is well stocked with West Coast Ice. Also, check out the Ice Fest this winter, see you up there If you have a full week, skip Lilooet and head to the Icefields PrkWy. [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Nice, seems like the year of new tools around here, I hope we all get a chance to use them soon...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Agree with David parker, I think it was Jo-Jo was soloing once and fell on a daisy chain on his belay which was 3 screws and his 3rd tool all equalized, he blew the screws and the tool held him (pick bent though). good thing he placed it eh! Huh? Fell on a daisy chain on the belay while soloing??? Thats odd... Loren-The BD catolog claims that 1KN = 224.8 lb force.As for whay the Rep meant, I'm not sure. Sometimes I will bury my tool and clip a rope into it while placing a screw. I do this when I'm getting gripped - not sure if it would hold or not, but it helps my nerves. I usualy use my tools to back up an anchor as well (might as well right?), but I'd be scared to rely on them as the main point. This is a good discusion, as I have often wondered what other people do. Takersleezy...

Glue...G.L.U.E. - thats all it is. Glue - you be the judge...

Hence the benifit of the good old Gri-Gri... Glad you guys are ok!

Like I said, they are glued in! If you want to trust yor life and your partners life to some glue than go for it High tech glue my ass. Let's think about that (suposed)1000lb strength rating. How many Kn would that be? If you remember that 1 KN = abot 222 lbs, then the strenth of the head and spike is about 5 kn. Do you think that is a sufficient anchor to hold a lead fall? If so than I guess those 26Kn locking biners are a big waste of money. It's probably fine to use the tools as a back up, but definatley not your main point. Although, in reality you will eventually run out of gear and have to belay off your tools sometime. Not to dis BD but that testing meathod sounds like BS. "Hit the tool on the curb a hundred and fifty times." Not quite the scientific meathod I'm looking for when I'm putting my life on the line... Needless to say, Cobras kick ass! [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Nice! I was buildering once in Chicago and all of a sudden a cop turns down the street and starts shining his light around. I got freaked and just jumped off. It was about 20ft up, man that hurt...

My knot came about %90 untied while I was leading one of the pitches on the Zodiac. I noticed it just before it was about to slip right out of my harness. I screamed like a girl

That is a sweet deal, but it looks as if they are only selling the Adze...

Erik, Keep workin on your female areas, I'm sure you'll see an impovement soon. Just keep pounding that estrogen! No really, I'm diein' to hear about Yosemite. Send me an e-mail if you get a chance. I have been climbing vicariously through the computer for several months now. I have climbed all the virtual ice routes on the web, and I plan to move onto walls next. I think I'll start with Tuans page, then Chris Mac's. Philfort has all the best local e-routes. And I'm still waiting for Alex to update his site... Thats why I had to go and tell everyone about the Colmean Icefall. It's the coolest thing I've done since August. Life's not bad, but none of my jeans fit anymore

I agree, it seems that holding the head of the tool with Android leashes will not work very well. I have mine riged so the wrist webbing is as short as possible, that way it is easy to grasp the clasp with a thumb and forefinger. Unfortunately, with that set up you cant reach the top of the tool. Any other recomendations.

Well, at least there will be some water in the ground. The iceman will cometh!

Scott, I was just joking until you had to go and get all serious on us. Don't take the attitude so seriously... Sorry to intrude on your serious expidition planning. I hope all goes well for you. Have fun! P.S. My friend Andy skied the West Butress with just one partner. Saftey is what you make of it. Ropegun,Stuff it.

That picture was of the last thing I climbed. It was right next to the edge of the Icefall. I had to get a few more swings in before we left. I guess Phil snapped the shot on his way out. There is tons of cool stuff, go check it out!

ambitious climbers = dead climbers

Ok, here is a serious response: Why the hell do you need 4 or 5 more team mates for your trip? You say that you and your partner are exprerienced, why not just go as a pair. Personaly, I would think that a team of seven climbers who were assembled on the internet would turn a fun trip into a logistical nightmare. Not to mention the posible tensions of having a group of total strangers together for 3 weeks. This leads me to wonder- if you are not trying to recruit climbers for the extra money, why the hell would you? Not to dis your plans, cause the WB of Denali sounds like a fun walk up, but I wouldn't call it a once in a lifetime experience. It's not even out of the US for crist skes. I have several friends who have been there more than once. Get serious...

Hey Scott, just messen around, good luck!

yeah, cause o and a are so close to ach other on your keyboard right?

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/php/specials.php

"Once in a lifetime experience..." Sounds like you are trying to recruit clients.

While you guys are all fucking around with paintballs, I will be getting fresh tracks...

Pretty slick huh! I have been wanting to fix that since the first day I registered. It would have saved me much grief and embaresment. This new software kicks ass. I am not bone, I am Lambone! There is only one Lambone...

Dru and Caveman, Ya know who you guys remind me of? Remember the Warner Bro's cartoon with the Wolf and the Sheepdog...they arive at work together, "Hey George...Howdy Bill...", they ride up the elivator together, clock-in together, and then go at it for the rest of the show until the day is done! Then they say goodbye and go home. Thats what you two were doing at 8:00 this Monday morning. Do yall spend the whole weekend trying to think of clever spray towards one another?

Leashless baby yeah!!Schwagadelic!!! But dude you missed the drop knee... Seemed like normal ice to me ??? It looked like those falls along the trail were about to come in if it gets any colder up there! I was suprised that any ice had formed on them. Good to meet you guys!

A torch!!! Ohhhh man thats classic...