Lambone

Not having a full-strength clip-in loop (on the new models) in the middle of the back is a huge oversight on Petzl's part IMO. -WS Will, Actually, its not an oversight at all. Petzl left the rear loop out on purpose. Why? Acording to the local Rep.- because people use the rear gear loop to clip into the anchor with while belaying the second. Why is this a problem?-Ever try to escape the belay while the anchor is clipped to your ass? It's not so easy. Petzl is just trying to eliminate bad situations by simplifying their gear. It does have one draw back in that you cant trail a haul line as easily. Other than that I think these harneses are great!

Wow! Cool, I have allways wondered how hard it would be to hold a fall while simo-climbing. You held two(and no-offense Dan), but you are not a very big guy! Thats really interesting. Sounds like a great adventure, thanks for the report!

If you look at Sharma's new link up in Rock'n Ice or Climbing, you can see bolts that were placed to be used while working the crux of a route, but skipped on the redpoint attempt. How do folks feel about that? (Pope need not answer.) I think it is a bit exesive.

Is that Tibetan for what? I'd second the Southface of Ingalls. Fun, nice veiw, good rock, good pro, good anchors,...hence lots of people! Castle Rock has lots of good first Trad leads on it as well. Just my opinion, but its probably better to introduce someone to leading at a crag rather than in the mountains, for obvious reasons.

City Park on the lower wall at Index would be the obvious choice. Easy C1, takes lots of nuts and small cams. The lower wall has lots of routes that are C1-C2 and some more spicy stuff as well. Look for the guide called Sky Valley Rock. Have fun!

Off the subject, but how was Uncle Ben's. Did ya get on it?

I heard that they may not open it this year due to the drought. But that is just a rumor...Have fun!

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I think you gotta ask yourself a few questions: 1. Is the route a 3-star with memorable moves, or just another line? (If it's not a GREAT route, just abandon it and leave well enough alone) 2. Have you checked out the route, preferably on rappell where you can hang out and survey the line, to see if there are alternate gear placement? (Maybe those pins were placed before there were 0.33 aliens, or maybe you could "protect" the moves with a crafty cam-hook placement). 3. What is the nature of the area (sport, trad, mixed?) and what is your skill level with respect to placing a bolt properly? (The last thing we need is more time-bomb bolts littering the crag and needing replacement or removal a few years later if they even last that long). YMMV, WS Will, Are you suggesting that cam hooks would be a viable alternative as pro for a runout free route? Sounds pretty sketchy to me...you ever whip onto a cam hook before? Aliens don't fit in blade seems. Ball-nuts might though. Replacing the blades would be a waste of time and money, cause some cheap ass would booty them.

Blah,blah,blah.... Who cares about some short dirty cracks up another slabby dome, anyway? Get real, or get over it! "My crag...No mine....no mine first....no mine.....no its my project....well I cleaned it...well I worked it on TR..." HAHAHAHAHA!!

I'm stoaked about the new Cliff Bars with caffeen in them... it's like havin a cup of coffee in your pocket! The wannabe sport Ice climber on the wrapper is pretty cheesy though. Cavey, I'm right there with ya, the more grease the better!

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: So just right of photo, you can see what I believe is the Girth Pillar (?). Wasn't there some talk about massive rock fall on the route earlier in the year? That is certainly some very clean looking, grey granite, but it doesn't look quite like a fresh rock scare. Any thoughts, info? On top of that, The north face of Buckner had at least 400' of dirt showing on Sept 15th. When are you guys saying in was in shape? Sure it's climbable, but I wouldn't be calling it in shape. The following was posted on 9/14/2001 Confused in B'ham..... [This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 09-28-2001).] Ummmmm.... huh? That big, huge, enormous, gigantic vertical rock scar isn't obvious to you... Have you had your eyes checked latley?!?!?! You ever play Wheres Waldo? I'd suggest it, it's good for routefinding skills.

When I was on the North Ridge, it sounded like there were bombs going off inside the Ice Cliff Glacier. I remember thinking, "Damn I'm glad I'm not down there!!"

Thats funny, I allways thought Koflachs made WI2 seem like WI5.

My bro is the hardman from Montana. 'Nough said. Plus most of the lower ridge is 4th class. We allmost froze to death on the gendarme... I'm glad you guys made it safely!

Kevin, The lower portion is sweet, definately worth it. I'd do it again anyday, and its worth going back to get. You have about 3-5 pitches of 5.8-5.9 on really good rock/sweet cracks. Then you rack for simo-climbing and blast for the notch on mostly 4th class with some shot bouldery moves. Good gear, suprisingly not much loose rock... Getting down to the base from goat pass kinda sucks and is slow, but you won't need an axe or crampons this late. Aside from two short crossings we skirted the ice. TWO TUMBS UP! Go get it! The relief is huge!!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-14-2001).]

Jim, I would highly recomend doing it in a day. We went from a camp at Ingalls creek just below Longs pass and the base of the Cascadian Coluoir. It worked well, 18 hrs camp to camp. Then we built a fire, hydrated and slept before going out to the car. We did the whole ridge in eight pitches total. Our packs seemed heavy with warm clothes in them, bivi gear and water would be no fun. The best bivi sites are at the notch. Above that you've got small ledges here and there. There is no water. Good luck!

Lots of people think ropes, harnesses, biners, nuts, and cams are pretty goofy too

What day did you climb? We did the full ridge on saturday. As to your question, we avoided the top of the gendarme by heading right just above the OW. There are big sandy ledges to belay from and you don't have to rappel to get to the notch. I guess we can't really claim that we climbed the gendarme though... oh well. Those were some cold pitches! Nice job!

Hey Packonmyback, Be carfull about telling these sharks where you work. I speak from experience... Will, don't forget-liability insurance ain't cheap.

Well you know how it is, people like to make fun of what they don't understand. So-what does the name meen in Tibetan? Better yet, how do yo pronounce it!? Just curious... Mine was a nickname that my partners from Montana used. Actually I have had quite a nice summer, thanks. Starting tommorow, I got six days off to go get busy up north. If you meen my sarcastic attitude, well sorry I upset you so much, don't take it personaly. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-05-2001).]

Dave Matthews is a sellout. "Don't wanna be a climber, reaching for the top. Don't wanna be anything where I don't know when to stop." Phish-"Waste"

Kypgayayaeee, Oh ummmm, sorry just wasting some more of your precious time and space... No offense intended [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-04-2001).]

Ohh TT, take it easy on Kyjelly.

Erik, With all due respect... I'd have to disagree with you on this one. I don't think Matt was wrong because he left a fixed line on an approach for the night. If he was still in the area than it was not really garbage, or abandoned equipment. People fix ropes to speed an early mornig ascent all the time, its common practice in all mountain ranges. The people who took it should have assumed that it belonged to someone camping in the Basin, or at least asked around. I think its lame that they took it, and I'd call it theft. Just my opinion... See ya, Matt [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-04-2001).]

Once while on the Tripple Direct, we emptied our whole pipe bomb on to unsuspecting climbers on The Nose. Ooops! Needs more glue next time! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-03-2001).]