Lambone

quote: Originally posted by jon: BTW for those who care Bonzo can still post just under a different screen name, maybe I'm not such a dick after all. Yep, you can change your name now. I did...there is only one Lambone bitch!

Thanks for bringing up a good topic epb. We needed one around here. I'm sure tommorow the spray sluts will spew all over it. See ya!

I hear ya! We had to bribe the official with a $60 bottle of scotch for our permit! [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by epb: Sorry...That last post was posted before I say your new one. Seems like you know exactly what I'm talking about. i.e. Team Quoka or whatever. That's what I saw as well. The whole base camp seemed to be full of team quokos. 2 meter domes tents and all. 8 bags for 5 though, doesn't seem to be that bad though...more like Ghetto fabulous,for Everest any way. [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: epb ] It wasn't Everest...I wish. Maybe someday. [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I'm not tryin to argue with you epb, But I think it is more complicated than that. You have every right to go on a super light unsupported expidition. But I think that most of the big commercial teams hire lots of Sherpas because their proffesional guides are to busy with clients to do the real work on the mountain. It comes down to the cost of labor. Mountain Maddness or who-ever aint gunna pay three extra American guides to fix ropes when they can pay Sherpas pennies to do the same thing. Either way the ropes gotta get fixed, and the clients sure as hell ain't doin it! Plus, who the hell can afford to climb Everest with out corporate sponsorship and a team of twenty just to split the permit cost! [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Thats cool jon, he was an asshole anyway. But I think next time we should vote on who gets the BOOT! Then it will be all democratic and shit... I vote for Dan Larson.My second vote is for officespace.

Thats cool epb, I wasn't try to say that you don't know whats up...I was just rambeling! Damn, I wanna live in Nepal for 8 months! But I'm not sure if my stomach could handle it...and I like cheeseburgers! Your totaly right... What you see in Vertical Limit isn't that far from the truth-minus the Nitro I think satelite phones and all that bullshit take away from the experience. We were camped next to a team sponsered by Quoka (Mountain Zone .com), and it was a fuckin joke. Not only was their camp an eye sore, they were also total assholes to us. Our camp was supposedly "ghetto" because we didn't have a $2000 Mt Hardware circus dome with dishes sticking out of it... I thought we went about as light as we could, and we still had about eight big bags of shit(for 5 people). However, the fact is (at least on the normal route) that Sherpas do most of the hard work on Everest before westerners even show up to basecamp. Sounds like most of the trekking peaks are pretty easy to do unsupported. I think thats what I'd like to do next time. But I will still hire Chappa for a couple of hundred bucks. He's got lots of kids to feed. He's funny as all hell, and he makes a mean Dahl Bhat! [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Good question, it has been done, but it depends on what exactly you are talking about... First of all, you couldn't get to K2 with Sherpas, since most Sherpas live in Nepal or China. Second, you couldn't get to K2 without the Balti porters, you need camels just to cross the river. And they probably wouldn't let you through unless you paid them, so you might as well have them carry your stuff. If you are talking about porters:Not only would it be nearly imposible to cary all the supplies you would need for an expidition of that sort to basecamp. You would pay twice as much for everything if you didn't have a local negociator. Plus, the officials from the Minisrty of Tourism probably won't sign off on your climbing permit unless you have a camp cook, liason officer, and all of that. They expect you to hire locals. And finally, I don't think you could get out of Lukla without some 5'2 tough as hell Nepali dude running off down the trail with your bag on his head! One more thing, living up at altitude eats away at your body. If you don't have proper nurishment, ie. your eating freeze dried food, you won't be climbing anything. But then again you will be sick (stomach bugs) anyway, so you still probably won't climb anything! If you are talking about climbing "sherpas":Well, yes you can climb without them. But if you are on any sort of standard route in the Himalaya (which you probably will be if it is your first time over there-nothing wrong with that). Anyway, you will just be jugging up fixed lines that the "sherpas" put up anyway. So they wern't paid by you, whats the difference... You're not talking about the cascades here...lots of those big peaks can take a month just to approach! If you want to climb something big without the need for all the extra baggage, fees, and paperwork- head to South America! Also, don't forget...were not talking about used car salesmen who want to sell you a big SUV to take up to the ski area. The native people of Nepal are sooo awsome, kind, friendly, and willing to do what ever they can to make your stay in Nepal plesant. Their lively hood depends on the tourist industry, and what climbers pay them is merely chump change to us. All of your gear will be worth more than they might earn in a decade. I've thought about your question alot, and all though it sounds gnarly and hardcore to go over there and be self sufficient, its just not realistic. You will be a visitor in the Sherpa's land, and by trying manage without their help you might miss out on an opportunity to make wonderfull friendships. Just thinking about the sherpas we hired on our trip makes me want to go back just to visit them and see how they are doing. Times must be tough this year. [ 11-29-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

'Sall about the Jane's Addiction dawg...sheeeet!

Easy on the lambs!

Uhhhh...what does that mean???

[ 11-28-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I miss my lockdowns...sold 'em to willstrickland with my old tools. Hey will, wanna trade!

Ahhhh...when the Circus comes to town!

By snowboard punks, for snowboard punks... backside180

quote: Originally posted by miker: I might be up for this.If I can climb all V0's and half the V1s and select V2s and 3s which category am I in? Super beginners? miker Mike, You can climb as many problems as you want, and you have multiple trys to complete each, you will get points for the five hardest that you complete. V2-V3 is the intermediate category. If you sign up as a Beginer and do a bunch of V4s, you will be automaticly bumped up to Advanced Eric, I've worked at several comps that the VW has hosted, the bouldering comp was by far the funnest. A wide variety of climbers, lots of positive encouragement, everybody was just hangin out havin fun. I just wanted people to know about it, 'cause the more the merrier.

We are hosting a Bouldering Competition presented by The American Bouldering Series at the Seattle Vertical World on Saturday December 1st. Yes, that is this Saturday! First,Let me begin with a Common Misconception: You have to be super strong, and look like a pro to be in a bouldering comp... Answer: WRONG! This event is all about having fun and going for it...whatever your skill level. All AGES, AND LEVELS OF STRENGTH AND TECHNIQUE ARE ENCOURAGED TO COMPETE! All the problems will be brand new, and there will be something for everyone (yes-even really short people). There are four skill categories ranging from Beginner to Elite that will divide the ranking of the competitors. Anyone can compete within any category they wish, and jump on any problem regardless of its grade (there will be problems from V0- through Vsick). For most people its not about scoring points, it’s about having fun, pushing yourself, and cheering on others. For some people it’s all about winning! Whatever floats your boat... The Rundown:We'd like folks to show up between 9:00 and 10:00am to register. Between 10-11:00 we will be squaring away all the details, prepping the judges, and letting folks get warmed up. From 11-3:00 climbers will get their groove on, 'scend as many hard (or easy) problems as you can! Then we will total up the scores and give out COOL PRIZES for each category. Please contact the gym at (206) 283-4497 for more details on the registration fee($30.00 before 11/30/01 and $35.00 on the day of the competition), time schedule, scoring procedure, or any stuff like that. For directions to VW check out this web page Also:If anyone is interested in helping out, we are looking for volunteers (judges), free lunch and climbing afterward included. To those of you who refuse to submit to the joys of bouldering...peace be with you. This is the perfect opportunity for me to show all you cascadeclimbers what a hardman I am , but unfortunately I will be working the counter on Saturday... Hope to see ya there [ 11-27-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

The two trees fell about a mile and a half east of the Nisqually Entrance, before the switchbacks up to Paradise. They were about 50-80ft down the road from each other. I think the crash happened on the eastern-most tree, but I'm not sure if the car drove into it after it had fallen, or if it just landed right on the car. They closed the road and kept everyone up at Paradise for an hour or so. It was really strange that the two trees had fallen in esentialy the same place, but were totaly seperate from each other. It was pretty damn windy that day... Sad to hear about the loss

Fri-Shopping with the future inlaws Sat-got shredded by high winds and stinging drift at Paradise, flailed in crusty drifted cascade concrete... Sun- got soaking wet up at Big Four Ice Caves, also got schooled on some overhanging glacier ice. That stuff is hard, but hella fun...way cool for only 1.5 hrs. drive time!

Yeah, than we agree- I said: "The spikes on the BD carbon fiber tools are just glued into place. They will not hold any type of falling force. Don't do it..." I never said they wouldn't hold body weight. Anyway, thanks for checking that out for us. That is valuable information. BTW- BD claims that their leashes are not designed to hold more than body weight.

Don't get me wrong Dave, You can adjust the Androids in order to be able to grab the head easily. It all depends on where you fasten the hose clamp that fixes the leash to the shaft. For that matter, you could just omit the hose clamp all together. Mine are new, so I still need to play around with them a bit. 'Bout to get super techy geek style here... Advantages of putting the clamp low: 1. If you fix the hose clamp low on the shaft the tool has a different balance point. If you hold your arm down and let go of the tool, it wants to stay in your hand. This makes it easy to let the tool go for a second (to lets say ohhh...clip a bolt for instance) and grab it again quickly. 2. By having the hose clamp low, you can also have the wrist leash adjusted to its shortest length. This would make it easier to use the thumb release latch while both taking it off and clipping it back on. Keeping it short will also make it less in the way when you are puting in screws and syuff like that. Disadvantage:You can barely wrap your hand around the top of the tool. Hitting the hammer with your hand to release the tool from a placement is no problem. So how about those apples- can you tell I am bored and jonesin to ice climb or what!

Nice, thanks for finding that Loren. Those Pic's get me through the day!

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: OK, here's another question directly related to newtons and ice screw belays. Assuming you have a two screw equalized belay and your tool(s) is/are hooked up as a "backup" and you are belaying the second coming up, do you belay directly off the anchors with munter or reverso (less dynamic) or do you belay off your harness with rope running through anchor down to second (more dynamic)? Obviously we know the answer for when the belay is for the leader going up. Does one (single) or two (half) ropes change your opinion? Hmmm...thats a good question, infact I was thinking about the same thing earlier today. I think that it ultamitely comes down to the quality of the screw placements. If they are in good ice(even stubbys) than they should be plenty adequate to hold the highest forces that a falling second could possibly generate(which isn't very high). You could hang a truck off two equalized screws placed in good ice. If the screw placements are crap than you have something to worry about. Better hope you have a good stance, and you better give as dynamic a belay as possible. Maybe even a hip belay. Do what ever you can to avoid weighting the anchor, and DO NOT clip the rope through it as a directional. Then find a new belay before starting the next pitch. If you belay off your harness, remember that running the rope through the anchor as a directional will double the forces that that anchor has to support, it will be holding both of you! Two 1/2 ropes would be less dynamic than one single. If you wanted more dynamicness, just belay the second up with one of the two strands. Thats my opinion, but I would be interested to hear if anyone thinks otherwise. I love talking about this techy B.S. Spray gets old quick... [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]