Lambone

I have a freind who posts here sometimes...He tells me that he used to ride the train for an hour and a half (one way)through Tokyo to get to the climbing gym. The train cost $15 and the gym cost $25. A three hour commute and $40 just to climb in a super packed gym. I'm not sayin that a gym in Tacoma wouldn't be cool, 'cause every city should have one...but, I think sometimes we forget how good we have it here in the US. [ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

I'm with chocolate, I've got three cats! I once stepped on a poor dog while belaying on an ice climb. It wasn't my fault, I was watching my partner and she curled up behind me. My crampon punctured her leg Then she preceded to try and follow her owner up a route(unsuccesfully of course) and got totaly pegged by diner plates. Dogs and Ice climbing don't mix. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-24-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: You know very well Retrosaurus made a typo. 20,000 is what he meant. And his point is valid. It's easy to second-guess from the safety and comfort of your arm-chair. Any fool can do that. And any fool can be an arm-chair hero. Try it when your own life is in danger, and you feel death knocking at your door. Let's see how selfish your genes are then. Look guys, I'm not arguin that, infact I'm agreeing with you, check out my original post- "It is easy to speculate about what a "wussie" he was up on Everest, at least while you sit behind your computer down here at sea level... The simple fact is that Anatoli was probably the only one fit enough to be out there in the middle of the night cunducting a rescue. Thats how it goes...If Krackhead had been out there too, it would have been just one ore body for him to drag back to camp." I am disagreeing with the attitude that Dennis has. Of course the first rule of any rescue is to asses the dangers, and make sure the accident scene is safe for the rescuers. But Dennis is saying that he would not help a stranger on a mountain, period. Where's the brotherhood, the kinship? We are all tied to a common bond when we are in the mountains, regardless of any language barrier, or etc...Sure competition on a mountain is normal, common, and to be expected when there are multiple parties on a route or a face. But that has to end if someone gets in trouble. All climbers have to chip in to help their fellow climbers. Let me give an example, I'll try to make it short. To buddies of mine from Montana were on the Infinate Spur last year. There was another party of well know Canadian climbers not far above them. Glen and Gren got avalanched on in a couloir one day. The party above wrote them off as dead, and phoned the rangers with a cell, then they kept climbing. The rangers went and picked up Glen's basecamp, and called their parents to notify them that their children had died in Alaska. Well gues what, they wern't dead, and they soon caught up to the Canadians who were quite suprised. My question is this. Why didn't the Canadians invesigate to see if their fellow climbers needed help? (They may have, I haven't heard their point of view) The point is, what if my buddies were stuck to die below them, and had been just simply abandoned. Is that right???

Boy, yeah I hear it's really rough above 2,000 ft... Hey man, you do what you can - even if its just making tea in camp for people who can head out. It's a moral obligation to help if you can. If it's hopless, thaen I guess thats a different story. Look at Alex Lowe on Denali, the dude carrys a guy that he's never seen or met before up to a spot where a helicopter can pick him up. Now thats heroism. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-24-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: I WENT UP MT. SI THIS PAST WEEKEND With your plastic boots right???

Thats a lame attitude, remind me NOT to help you out if the shit lands on you someday. In my opinion, it's an unwritten rule that if a climber or team of climbers is in trouble and you are in the area, you drop what ever the hell you are doing and go help out. It's called karma - look it up. But then again, mabye you just learned about mountaineering from the flick Vertical Limit...

The new gym opens tommorow, in Bremerton!

Thanks for coming yall, hope some of that made sense!

"ALL YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US!" [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-23-2001).]

oops, duh....

He is the man who slept on top Everest right?? I read that he fell in a crevase while crossing the Kuhmbu Icefall. I think he was alone. It was to be his last trip to Everest(suposedly).

This is tonight! I think there is still space left.

Hey TG, I bet you'd be singin' a different tune if you had a sled! How bout some ice tools, how many points will they dock you!!???

Wow, pope and I were thinking the exact same thing at once...how weird.

These weree the last two posts on that stupid pointless thread, "Hey sexy cocoa- Even though you're a oddball headcase, you still write better than dru, who seems to think he's some kind of a high fuckin authority on prose. Go ahead dru, spray me with some of your killer wit, but whydoncha try being a bit less holier than thou; ya might even get an invite to the pub for a change. Spray on genious." "Trask, I don't appreciated being used as a weapon of war in your personal struggles with DRU. If you have a problem with DRU, work it out with him; don't involve me. Now please apologize." "Are you fucking serious you head case." My question is, what took Jon so long!??? Jons a nice guy, don't talk shit about someone who is doing you a favor in the first place. As for Krackhead, who the hell cares! I think that he reduced himself to the level of a tabloid writer, but fuck it...this is America. Others have done far worse. It is easy to speculate about what a "wussie" he was up on Everest, at least while you sit behind your computer down here at sea level... The simple fact is that Anatoli was probably the only one fit enough to be out there in the middle of the night cunducting a rescue. Thats how it goes...If Krackhead had been out there too, it would have been just one ore body for him to drag back to camp.

[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: lambone ]

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-23-2001).]

What is the Cliffhangar?

Wow! Burley...

Are you going to see Oysterhead!? There are still tickets available. If so mabye we can hook up. It may be a little while before the ice comes in

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: lambone, okay , let the newbie in me shine Lambone, how do you think? I guess my understanding is because plastic is stiffer it is easier on vertical ice. Although, I havent used leather while climbing vertical ice, so I dont know. Shit, I had another thought/question and Ive totally spaced it... Oh well. I think I need to go to sleep. Its much later here! Night! Eddie, pretty much said it... I like the sensitivity you get with leathers. They are lighter, and I think they are more comfortable in general. But they get wet... The cuffs of most plastic boots are not much stiffer than leathers. They may be nice at first, but you'll gain calf muscle pretty quick. Then you will find stiff boots limiting. I think that straight on frontpointing is the slowest, and most strenous way to climb ice. I'm not sure why people think its the only way to do it. Avoid it at all costs! Get crazy, throw a stem in, heel hook a cicle, drop knee that buldge! It's all alot easier with leathers. Personally my calves are not very strong, so I have trouble frontpointing for a full pitch. Instead I try to use my edges and heels, yeah...just like on rock(or plastic). Plastics have their advantages of course, I like them for long trips because you can (attempt) to dry out the liners. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-18-2001).]

Leather is better for vertical ice

Forrest, Actually my original inspiration is a guy named Pete from Bozeman. He's taught me most of what I know about mixed climbing and establishing sport/ice routes. You may have seen a photo of Alex on Pete's route "Bulldog world", climbing 20 horizontal ft out the cave of the classic (never touches down) "Bingo World." Alex got all the photo shoots and mag hype for most of Pete's hard routes. He also put up a direct start to Alex's "Responsible Family Man." I can't remember what he called the route, something about a Delinquant Teenager. As far as I know Will Gad made the first and only acsent one day with Pete as a belayer. He called it 8+ or 9 or something...the rock is total shit, its the one with equalized bolts! Pete's just chillin now, rasing a family and playin the guitar. We did the North Ridge on Stuart together in August. And yes I did enjoy Sean's show, it reminded me of the days when I'd work routes with Pete. (mostly as a belay slave ) Mixed climbing is hella dope yo!!! Someday I'd like to apply what I've learned from Pete in Patagonia or the Waddington Range. But for now I'm just learnin' Geography. I would have been at your show if I wasn't stuck in class, I was bummed to miss it. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-20-2001).]

That photo of Salt and Pepper that Alex posted on the thread about Ice routes. I started my training schedual today. Looks like that rock is going to take alot of cleaning!!!

nice..... [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-18-2001).]