Lambone

Dude, I hear ya... But there is only on problem with your aproach. The harder you smash the ice cicles, the longer they take to form up. Climb gently, like your on some kinda cascades choss fest...

I'm over it, suck it caveman...go back to high school.

no, I just clicked the wrong button... You responded be for I could fix it.

well, you have fun with your spray then...

quote: Originally posted by epb: No offense lambone...but I hate the ideal that tourism = economic prosperity. At least in countries where the land and environment are rich. First off because a countries economic prosperity and modernization does not necessarily mean health and well being for its people. I would hate to see the beauty and culture of Nepal modernized into a land fill we consider the first world. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ] Well, by no means did I say that tourism has led to economic prosperity in Nepal. I only said that it is their major source of income, do you disagree with that??? With out any type of modernization, Nepal faces depelating their natural reasources. There second major source of income is in the export of raw materials, of which they have few of significant value. So I suppose you would rather see it turn into a deforested strip mine than a industrial landfil... [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

For the most part I'd agree with mtngrrrl. There are a few major flaws in haireballs argument that I feel inclined to point out. Mostly cause I am bored, and partly cause this is an issue I am studying at the moment. For what its worth, these are my thoughts on the topic. First, the people of Nepal, and all of Asia for that matter eat a shit load of rice (if they can get it). Yes villages in the mountains import the rice from the lowlands, but it is still a major staple of their diet. Porters carry about 500 lbs at a time on their heads while hiking straight up eroding trails. They don’t believe in switchbacks over there. Second, the people of Nepal and India have been burning dung for hundreds-who knows- thousands of years, since cattle were domesticated. It is a major renewable fuel source, it burns long, hot, and it doesn’t smell as bad as you'd think. If you trek in Nepal your food will be cooked with it too. Finally, most climbers take kerosene gas as cooking fuel in base camp, and Iso-Butane for on the mountain. Within Sagamartha National Park, Lang-Tang, etc...collecting and burning wood is illegal for both tourists and native peoples, and punishable by major fines from the National Governments Park Service. These parks were set up with the help of foreign investment from western nations. The tourism industry was boosted as result of structural adjustment forced by the IMF and World Bank, etc...Not to mention the non-profit organizations such as the Hillary Foundation, and Doctors w/o Borders, who have set up schools and Hospitals throughout the Himalayan region. And so on and so forth... I guess my point is that yes, western influence has been somewhat detrimental to Nepal. But with out the tourism industry Nepalese economy would be in a world of hurt(as if it isn't anyway). Yes westerners have once again changed an ancient culture, but if its for better or worse is highly debatable. I'll tell you this 99% of the Nepalese people that I spoke with said that they would rather be in America, or something to that effect. The younger generation, primarily ones who are educated (that I spoke with) are very bitter that Nepal is not modernizing with the rest of the world, they are being left out of the loop with no means of escape. Deforestation is a very minor problem compared to the water and energy shortage that Nepal faces. Of course, the advertisers who right the Patagonia catalogue will always highlight the deforestation issue, because that is what most of the Granola eatin’, Retro Cardigan wearin' folks in the USA care about…esthetics. Good Topic

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What I am is an Angry Climber. Scott you are sooo cool. By the way. Why do you bother to send me private messages of topos to a crag and no directions? I dont care what route you did. Just what route I am gonna do. Yeah, that reminds me of the time you e-mailed me a list of your "first ascents" up at the Pearly Gates... No directions in that e-mail you freak.

Billy, Check out Will Gad's Page for some pretty recent info, and sweet photos.

Hmmm...thats to bad. Thanks for the info Dru, please give a shout out after you get back... I think many of us are eager to know if anything besides IcyBC is in, if even that. Bridge Creek possibly?

Somebody call in sick and go get freshies on the Back Side of Stevens for me... I'd go, but it's crunch time and I got to pass my classes!

They both work fine, but didgital beacons are faster hands down. Yes I believe it is a dual analog with two antennas inside it. It's the one to get in my opinion, but it takes a bit more knowhow than the Tracker. I like that you adjust the volume on your own. More similar to the old school beacon. The Tracker suposedly isolates multiple signals better. But lots of range is key.

Ohhh boooyyy, I could go off on Ron all day, its just sooo easy..."Yup, en den Gerwald saw da beawr and had to pwedawl sooo hward to savwe his lwittle wife..." Oh man, he just cracks me up...sure helped kill the time on some approaches though. Poor guy...I love his little letter about himself on the back of the guide. Can't blame him though, he's never been outa Montana. Oh and rat, you know whats up bro - Cody is the shit...spent some good schwily nights in the deer creek campground. Ahhh...back in the good old days!

quote: Originally posted by rat: gotta agree with both kfeck and dru, though i usually don't like to agree with kfeck. the hordes exist and the more dispersed they are, the better. keeping projects or new areas under wraps is just part of the game---if you don't like going to the same shithole every weekend, buy a map, a tank of gas, a box of beer, and do some some exploring. lambone,while i haven't ice climbed in montana yet (done some rock and alpine rock), attitudes there seem to be changing a little: witness the 2nd addition of the Big Sky Ice and the Alpine Ice and Rock books (of course the author is a guide partially/mostly trying to make a buck) and the montanaice.com website. Ron is a total freak. "Look Gerwald, fiwst ascent of da Wobbit Hole!!!" You'd have to meet him I guess...

Yeah I figured that much...but thanks anyway. Sounds like a fun event. I hope they get some crazy baddass climbers to do a slide show or something.

quote: Originally posted by trask: what about that lung device that lets you breathe when burried. anything to that? They work, but they won't work quite as well in the wet Coastal snow, better for dry Rockies powder. FF is selling last years vests for 20$ they might have some left. Regular price is like 199$ or something rediculus. I forget the statistics, but most avalanche victims die from trauma, not suffocation.

quote: Originally posted by primate: This question has come up a couple of times, but there never has been much in they way of speculation: why the fuck to avalanche transcievers cost so much? I was wanting to feel a little safer this winter, but I'm not going to shell out $200/beacon. What's up? Beacons don't just make you a little safer...if you know how to use it. Are you one of those types that would dig a climbing rope out of the trash to save a buck

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Here's a question for the knowitall out there - Are all beacons compatible??? I think ythe old frequency was 275khz and the new ones are 475khz...or something like that. They made dual frequency beacons for a while but the range was significantly less. Any beacon made in the last 4-5 years should be on 475.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: Marmot mountain works in Bellevue has em' for rent..10$ first day 5$ each day after Yes, so does Feathered Friends, but remember...renting a beacon will only do you any good if you know how to use it. Otherwise it is just a body recovery device. Buy one and practice using it alot if you plan on being in avy terrain. It's better to get to know your own beacon. Think of it as cheap insurance.

Rock on Cavebro...thats some dope info. I wonder if I can get a map even if I missed the fest last year...

So it sounds like last year was kind of an oddity... Nice pic flebebeb...keep 'um comin!

Does anybody know if the BC Ice Report from bivouac.com has been updated yet Info on the link I have saved in my favorites was last updated in March...Old Ice Page Please let us know if there is a new address, or as soon as they start posting conditions. Thanks

Nice JayB, thanks for adding your take on it. My partners and I are also part of the growth problem, oh well what can you do??? I gues my question stems from some of the attitude I picked up from folks in Bozeman. Mostly college punks, but also from some old schoolers(ummm... should I say it...yes, Jack Tackle). I'm not at all saying that washington folks are not friendly at climbing areas...99% of the folks I've met on both rock and ice in Wa have been super cool.(with the exception of Lil Si and 38 ) But some people, like erik (and I respect his opinion) think TR's are bogus. My take is, if you don't want to lose the adventure in your climb, don't read the TR. But I'm kinda short on spare time for climbing these days, so I'd like to know where the gettin is good... [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Sorry, class starts in two minutes. Some other time...

I'm gunna move this thread now. Do, I feel bad about that, no. I startd the thread, and I knew it would generate some spray. I wanted to get some opinions about what people think about this forum, and it seems that no one got my point, or understood my question. Dru made me laugh, dbb came close, and erik well, we all know what erik thinks... I figured I'd wait until Caveman started insulting people as usual, so the time has come. You speek for yourself Caveman, so I shall keep my mouth shut. See ya - have fun.

Cobras will plunge better for all "around use", unless you get rid of the finger catch on the rage. The cobra has more weight in the head, making it swing a little stronger. You've got pro forms now, get the cobras...