Lambone

Fine art huh..., thats mighty noble of you. Nice pics man...

Hahaha... This is getting a bit off epbs original topic, but if you like boring El Cap stories by all means read on. Take note- I meen no offense towards Koreans, any other nationality or ethnic group for that matter... The whole scene involving the team behind us was unlike anything I had ever seen before in climbing. Like pope explained above these guys had a very structured team system. Each member had a specific job, and it was quite the corporate hierarchy. One guy (the ropegun) led every pitch, one guy (the bitch) hauled every pitch, one guy cleaned every pitch, and the oldest (the boss) barked orders at every one else. I never figured out exactly what the fifth guy did, maybe he was in charge of packing all their crap up, and they had about six haulbags worth of crap! I've allway thought that it seemed to be an interesting technique for getting a large team up a wall. From our point of view it was pretty entertaining! Of course, there was no way we were going to let them pass us, but every morning they would get up at about 5:00 and start getting ready. They'd yell up to wake us up and get moving. We call down profanities and around 8:00 or so we'd crawl out of or bags whip it out and give them a pissing contest! Regardless of our differences, we were all pretty damn happy to be up there together. Until they showed up at Camp 6... [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quit talking to yourself shawn...

What could I do, call the Rock Cops?! Trust me I wanted to push him off, but he would have been falling onto my gear that I was also clipped to!!!! Mostly I was just gripped on a Yosemite 5.8 crack, and I didn't know what to think...it was my first route in Yosemite and I was totaly awstruck by the glory of the valley. The dude cruzed out on the face about ten feet left of me, just smiled and went right on by whisteling the Austrian National Anthem or something. The weird part was when I met up with him at the belay... He didn't speak english so I just scoweled at him. Everything he did from his anchor set up to his belay tecniques were totaly foriegn to me. He was more than twice my age and his equipment looked abut 4 times as old as mine. So no, I didn't say much about it. Hell, I was only fifteen, I was also dieing of thirst and he gave me some candy so I just let it go... That is just one story, one time a group of 5 Koreans thought they would join us for the night on Camp 6(room for 3) on the Nose. HAHAHAHA.... They even had portaledges, but just wanted to be on our ledge...they ended up giving us lots of smokes, so it was all good. Or there's that time that the Germans above us left a bag of shit tied to the belay... And that one time when the Spanish team stole our fuel and food out of Camp 1... The list goes on... American climbers may be slow, but I have never run into any that are rude vile theives. Am I a little bitter...what, does it show? [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I was leading a pitch on the classic Nutcracker in Yosem. when some Austrian dude climbed around my belayer and started clipping into my pieces with his draws. Then he climbed right around me...I was dumbfounded, speechless, and super pissed about it. Sure I was kinda slow cause it was one of my first multi-pitch routes, but COME ON!!! I had every right to be pissed, the dude didn't even ask first...at the time I was young and unaware of European tactics. That kind of behavior may be the norm in Europe, but this is our home turf, and they should play by our rules. At the least be curtious enough to ask first. This experience left a very bad taste in my mouth towards foriegn climbers. I would also feel uncomfortable with a soloist climbing directly above me. They are are not only risking their lives, but mine too. It's just like the whole smoker issue... People have the right to be concerned about their saftey and well being, and reserve the right to be pissed if some one is endangering it. That kind of behavior is both selfish, and inconsiderate towards your fellow climbers. It doesn't matter how good you think you are...it's about respect. If you are a stranger soloing above me, I have absolutly no confidence in your skills, why should I...not just 'cause you are ballsy enough to climb without a rope. Then again, being friendly first goes a long way! [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

werd epb! Oh and Pope, my previous post was not nescesarly directed toward you. Just narrow minded grumpy old-schoolers in general... [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Dear old-schooler, You think rap bolters are the only ones making a mess these days, you should see the number of ancient fixed ropes above Camp 2 on Ama Dablam...or the number of piss bottels and shit bags stuffed in the crack behind Camp 6 on the Nose. Climbers leave messes all over the place, and arguing about bolt ethics isn't going to solve that problem. Bolts are a reality, now its time to start looking at the bigger picture. The new challange climbers face today is in cleaning up their act. And if your part of the climbing community, most likely you are part of the problem, regardless of what you think about bolts. If you are a true low or non-impact climber great, instead of whining about the faults of lesser individuals, go out there and set the example for the next generation. Stop mocking them and maybe they'll start listening to you. There's my two cents, "Go downtown and have a rat chew that thing off your face." --Uncle Buck [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

let it grow

Dude I already sent you a couple of big hooks for practicaly nothin

Makes me wish I was an inch tall

I like big hooks... ie. I hate free climbing with an aid rack on!

He's fuckin amazing, you'd have to go to Montana to watch...but it'd be worth it. I spent many hours belaying him on some of Montana's hardest/steepest mixed routes. Ever see Alex Lowes photo on Bulldog World, in Hyalite canyon. Look on the home page of :http://montanaice.com/ Pete put that route up... and did the first ascent. He linked up like 6 figure fours in a row or some crazy shit

quote: Originally posted by Ibex: Lambone, worked with a bud of mine name Tim, also a prisoner...er student at Iowa State Univ. Shawn Tim sucks....

A friend of mine who does some of that super steep + burly mixed climbing retro fitted his BD crampons with heel and side points. They are scary looking....

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: I have a question for you. Did you ever climb at Little Si before all the bolts went in and the guide was published? It was a beautiful, pristine place to hang out. Quiet and peaceful. The base of the crags was covered in carpets of moss, lichens and ferns.Now look at it. I used to think I should publicize the location of Canis Crag, but now... I don't think so. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: ScottP ] Do you think that is because of the climbing guide, or might it had something to do with the highway that is blazed up to the top of Little si??? I don't know, I'm just curious...haven't been around here that long. If this place is such a secret, why are you talking about it on this public forum? Do you have some thing to prove, or what?

nice

epb is a New Yorker...nuf said.

Damn, and I thought I was a tech wennie... Nice info Ibex. You guys climb on old grain cilos plastered in ice right?!? Have Fun!

Uhhhh...yeah, squeeze it 400 times and then try to pick your nose. No really, its cool cause you can also stretch it out with your fingers. That way you work the opposing muscles (whatever the techy term is...Courtney???) They also make three different densities of putty, depending on if you are recovering from injury, warming up, or training hard. Way better than the grip master or a tennis ball, but hard to find

Caveman trask

I like power putty, probably cause I use to squeeze my gum as a kid.

OOOOCCCCHHHH!!!! Damn...well looks like he wont be pullin on any pockets for a while.

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: But how expensive is regret? Dude thats a classic line

Check out these photos from that page... http://casbc.bivouac.com/18jan01photo1.htm

Look on the BC Route conditions thread, and click on Old Ice Page. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]