Lambone

hmmm...slipknot eh. Never used one. Can you adjust it without untying it? Just curious.

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I work at Vertical Relief Climbing Center in Flagstaff and we know how hard it is to clean holds and change routes but we try to make a big effort to do so. Our routes are never up for more than 3 to 3 1/2 months but we only have up to 50 routes and about 60 boulder problems (we clean holds before they go on a new route so our holds stay pretty clean also). how long do you think routes should stay up? another Q...which gyms have the best routesetting and routesetters? why? I think routes should stay up for 3 months or so, depending on the quality of the route. People sometimes get upset if you take down a route while they are still trying to get it. I haven't really been to many other gyms in the area so I can't speak for them. The Seattle VW has quite a few very experienced routesetters. Some of whom are certified to set for national competitions and get paid for it. We try to set lots of fun routes for everybody, 60% of which are 10b and under. There are over 250 leads , top-ropes and boulder problems. As for caveman's comment- I think setting routes can be really fun. Especially when its raining and the rock is wet! [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: BTW, SG was remodelled recently and now does have textured walls, though I don't know how good they are as I haven't climbed there since the change. Yes, textured paint, but still no features. It is an improvement though. We've been trying to set lots 'o fun boulder problems at VW lately. I've put up 12 in the past couple of weeks. Redmond had a bouldering comp on Saturday so there are lots of new, high quality problems.

We'll see if the new manager over there can get things in order, hopefully he'll crack the whip on those slackers

I have had the gates get bent if they are acidentaly weighted sideways. Lilke if they were clipped into the anchor funny or something. One of the only disadvantages I've found with these biners.

Pardon my ignorance, but where is Suprise Lake? Just curious... I've heard it mentioned on this site a few times, thanks.

Yeah, unfortunately Redmond is lacking in routesetters... They are allways looking for folks willing to comit to setting, (and stripping old) one route a week for a free membership. Luckily weve got a crew of about 12-15 setters in Seattle, so things ussually get changed out and washed after a few months.

quote: Originally posted by bobinc: don't see how SG can be in there without textured walls... Yeah no doubt, not to mention all the dirty holds and 6 moth old routes. But my opinion is inherintly biased

Isn't bridge a card game?

RE:-Crossloading the biner issue... I bet that DMM biner that has the funky plastic part to prevent the biner from spinning around would work well for this. Charlie Fowler once recomended to tie a munter hitch to the anchor to provide a dynamic anchor system. Use a bomber knot to the main point, then feed out some slack and tie the munterhitch to a secondary point. This will slip some and give you some dynamics before the main anchor point is weighted. This would work well if you wern't using a haulbag.

The didsplay on the TV screen showed 74 percent, not degrees. The announcer said degrees though...

Cool, wish I could have been there. Anything else get done? Hopefully it stays cold cause I may head up this weekend with my fiance. It'll be her first time on water ice. I'll make her put the rope up for me on the top pitch of Shriek!

I think what they meant to say was that the slope had a 75% grade. There is a big difference. I noticed that too. NBC sucks(except for ER ) [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, more importantly is to incorporate some kind of dynamic action into the anchor. This will lower the force put upon the whole system should you take the big whipper!

quote: Originally posted by epb: Yeah. A backpack definetly has its disadvantages (like you said...it gets in the way of the rack). However, 8 pounds of rope though isn't really enough to topple you over backwards. Rope bag from teh back of the harness sounds good, just seemed like it may swing and be slightly axward. You using a rope bucket or just a regular rope bag? Ummmm, just a little axward...But better then letting the slack hang on really long pitches.I just used a cheap stuff sack with a clip in loop.

Like I said, "One thing I have done to solve this is carry the rope in a bag clipped to the back of my harness. Then you are not fighting with the weight of the slack." You are carrying the weight of the rope on your harness anyway right...this set up just makes it much easier to feed the slack though the Gri-Gri. I wouldn't want to wear a backpack though. That would just increase you chances of spilling head first, and it get in the way of the rack. A rope bag works fine.

quote: Originally posted by jhamaker: How deep do you sink into the snow at 4k ft?How many miles/ day can you make while breaking trail? I guess both of those questions depend on how fat you are, and what your breaking trail with. Sorry, can't help ya there

It works. The Gri-Gri is static because it does not allow for any rope slipage when it catches a fall. It is designed to be used by a belayer who is mobil, thus providing the dynamic's in the system. The best way to adapt to this with a rope solo set up is to incorporate a dynamic system into the anchor. There are several ways to do that. The worst thing about soloing with a gri-gri is that it can be a pain in the ass to feed the slack through. Especially if you are halfway up a pitch. One thing I have done to solve this is carry the rope in a bag clipped to the back of my harness. Then you are not fighting with the weight of the slack. I never used a chest harness, I don't think it would be nesecary. The main thing to worry about is getting a daisy, or your fifi caught up with the lever somehow preventing it from locking up. Avoid cluster fucks around your belay loop, and use a back up knot. I have heard that you can modify it so the slack feeds better, but I'm not sure how, and I'd be reluctant to. Hope that helps, have fun!

Awsome Dude! I hope he puts his ropes up there again this year!

Dale, I don't unerstand your scale...9-10??? Do you mean 1-10??? Is 10 good or bad??? All I wanna know is if the teeth are still sharp. Thanks. You should post some info on the new projects.

Ok, what the hell does Avatar mean anyay??????

Well, vege...I know you're chronicly addicted two at least to things, CC.Com and Sharpening your Tools! To add to the topic; I like a good jug 'o wine if weight isn't an issue, if it is then a flask of brandy will do. [ 02-07-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Welcome to the darkside glen...watch out, the Surgeon General Warning hidden on the home page of this site claims that "Spray" is highly addictive and my cause terminal procrastonation, resulting in the extended lengthiness of all important work, especialy PHD projects.

Hey, my fiance was a TA last year... I hear what you mean. But still I think TA's are a good resource for undergrad students. They are much more approachable than professors, and can often relate to a students questions and concerns better. A 25 year old TA was in the undergrad's shoes much more recently than a 45 year old professors. Know what I mean, would you agree? My lady was not concerned about impressing any professor because her graduate advisor had nothing to do with the class that she was TAing. She was only concerned with impressing her students. Which wasn't so easy when trying to teach Jocks about Rocks. Unfortunately what TAs lack is experience in presenting their ideas. Many do not have much (or any)teaching experience, but hey there is only one way to obtain that right. I am more frustrated with professor's who are more interested in their own personal research, and future publications than preparing a good (clear, and well thought out)lecture for their students. Anyway, blah, blah, blah...I should be studying. [ 02-07-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Anybody remember what Powder magazine was like about ten years ago...seen it lately Far worse than the deterioraton of the climbing mags. Dean and Tim are poseurs. I liked how Tim explained some of the techniques they used in that article, a bit hard to follow, but cool nonetheless.