Lambone

I'll take the Silveretta 500's. PM sent

doesn't this thread belong in the Partners forum? I thought this forum was for trip reports, not Pre-Trip spray. can't wait to have my "Mind Blown" by your real identity! wow good luck

John, yeah true. Just make sure Boz doesn't get a dump or you might not get in. probly fine now though, have fun! If it were the week after I'd totaly go. Matt

It was pretty good. kinda boring. you can tell they are making it into a reality type show drama. if you missed it, here is the highlight: "We are in Basecamp, I can't fucking breath up here and I feel like crap." with about 10 commercials in between each scene.

shouldn't that guy be killing people or something? wtf? you work for me bitch, quit slacking on the job!

John, go to Cody, it is only a couple hours farther, and much better then Hylaite, unless you want mixed climbing. Have fun!

$300, right now. take it or leave it.

is it just me or does watching that just make you want to kill those fucking pigs...

yo p_tapley, wish I was there ripping it with you bro, keep it real and climb one fo J. peace, matt

Hi Dave, Tough call. I tink for most cases 60m is enough. But, I like long ropes. I recently bought a pair of 70m Beal ropes from Black Diamonds specials. They are great, but it is noticably alot more rope to deal with. Helps me link pitches on long rock climbs and run out long ice pitches... extra weight is the obvious drawback.

Bryan, if I am reading you right, you do the method where you tie an 8 on a bight on the "pull side" of the knot and clip it to the other "non-pull" side with a locker. then rap down the non-pull side? I have seen other experienced folks use this method, but I don't think I'd teach it to noobs or gym climbers. Seems like there is more margin for error, like clipping the wrong side or rapping the wrong side, or something... I think I'll try it out myself though. cheers

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I would never solo off just one sling for an anchor. Anyway, the bottom of GD is easy to build a bomber anchor, blocks to sling and girth hitch, and gear placements. Make it bomber!

LOL yeah, right on

Alcove Swing, El Cap from p3 of South Seas Porch Swing, top of Dawn Wall.

my reply was "lay off"... have fun

and bring a towel for drying off and warming up your feet!

a friend said last week was pretty freakin cold.

Agreed Matt, props to Bryan about being candid about his route. I have allways respected Bryan as being a stand up guy who's honest and open about his climbing motives and objectives. We use to talk frequently about some of his routes at VW when I was a front desk jockey. I also agree with Markmckillop, that people have a right to express their opinion about a climb here at this virtual campfire, and we can discuss this stuff while still being respectfull. While I like Bryan and respect all the work, expense, effort, and heart he's put into the development of climbing in Washington. I have to say I can't allways agree with his opinion. He once told me he though piton cracks on El Capitan should be bolted to prevent distruction of the rock (i.e. The Shield route). And he was pretty serious about that opinion. While I agree that the deteriation of aid cracks in Granite is a bad thing, and people should try to climb clean, I don't think bolting the cracks is the answer. I think Bryan's description of their intention with this route along the similar thought process. That more bolts is a way to preserve the route quality, saftey, or quality of the experience. Personally I disagree that the idea of creating a nice safe route for the masses is justification for adding lots of bolts to any piece of rock. My current local "alpinish" climbing area is Castle Crags State Park in Northern Cali (about 1.5 hr drive from home). The routes have a reputation for being serious and not for the faint of heart, bolts are sparse, flakes are loose, routefinding is not allways obvious, and good pro is often hard won and thin. If Bryan or myself or anyone were to try to put up a route as he decribes above, it would be chopped in a heartbeat by the locals in Mt Shasta who are adimant about preserving the traditional ethic. I have much more respect for that camp. There are reasons I'd like to go to Castle Crags with a power drill and put up a nice safe line that we could funnel clients up for profit. But it would not be accepted by the community, and for good reason. Don't get me wrong I know BB has put up more then his share of hard testpiece routes in the WA Pass area, many of which I hope to do someday like Clean Break and The Passanger. I got much respect for that stuff. Cheers!

they are actually my Wife's tools, so I have to listen to the rattle and her whine about it, it's a double whammy

yeah maybe...the plug sounds like it is all the way in the bottom down by the grip. it rolls to the top if I flip the tool over.

Franklin makes great ergonomic shapes that are tendon friendly and perfect for training. They are also virtually indistrcutable. We have 4 of each shape in our gym, that is over 4000 holds. Whe haven't broken a single handhold, some of the foot jibs are "mushy" though. Voodoo makes my favorite shapes. Some of their stuff is so cool and realistic, but watch out for their smaller holds because they crack easily. We have bought almost their whole line for our gym. Most of the small ones didn't last one route. Texture isn't that durable but fine for home use, and they are expensive. SoIll makes some cool stuff, but they just downsized their line and cut out some of the best shapes. Nicros has a huge selection and good training shapes, but the texture seems to wear off quickly. Best Roof jugs, imho. Stone Age makes the best big slopers and huge holds, hands down. The plastic Revolution uses sucks, it chips and cracks very easily. Pusher use to make some of the coolest shapes but most companies are outdooing them now and use better material. Atomik has some nice holds for the price. E-grips is one of the best hold makers out there. Strong plastic (similar polyeurathane Franklin uses)and funky cool shapes. Their foot jibs and crimpers are awesome. Metolius are boring, imho. Hope that helps!

So the little plastic plug that goes in the shaft where the ice clipper thing hooks in, fell into the shaft... and now there is a little rattley plastic thing insde the tool. You hear it every swing, it's freaking annoying! what to do? send them back?

Smith Rock: the outdoor climbing gym!

yes, i am now scared for life after seeing that. DON'T LOOK!

Hey ryhang, another word of advice for Cody: The ratings are the real deal. i.e. any of the WI4 you are familiar with at LVC will be rated WI2 there, no shit. And you won't have a trail of pock marks to hook your way up. and there is very little top-ropable ice. be prepared.