Lambone

Sounds to me like you went through great pains to manufacture and "dumb down" a route for gym climbers...who maybe shouldn't be on a serious route with dangerous routefinding and rockfall hazrds if they can't find their own way safely? Is more bolts the right answer? How about more experience...? Not really my place to say since I haven't had the chance to climb the route, just going by your description. Sorry if you are offended, have fun! cheers!

using an autoblock usually provides an adequate amount of extra friction, and atcs as a brake hand if the shit hits the fan and you let go of the rope. sorry if I am missreading the context here, I just jumped to the last page. our gym provides basic anchor classes and such that help people learn the fundementals of outdoor anchors, this can be simulated indoors. I think people that take the class (and similar classes) are doing themselves a favor, as probly %90 of gym climbers just go oiut and wing it. maybe %5 buy a book first... as far as first multi-pitch the smart thing is to find a guide or mentor.

how is the fit? big or small for large...?

Probly not a good idea Jens.

Have any of you ladies ever gone to this? My wife and her friend are thinking about it, but it's really expensive. Wondering if it's worth it, or just any general feedback. Thanks

Hey ryhang, Cody is sweet, you should go. We always pitched a tent in the Deer Creek campground for free, bring a really warm bag. The problem is drying out your wet shit, bring lots of gloves and ropes. A motel is probly better but it's kind of a long drive to town. I've heard one of the ranchers rents room in his cabin, but I don't know the name or contact info, the Cody climbing shop would know. Don't worry about avy's, the big danger there is melted out ice in the south facing climbs. Routes like the Main Vein and stuff get sun baked and you can get stuck with bad gear and icefall. Crossing the river can be cruxy. Mind the ranchers fences and don't take short cuts. Lots of fun moderate routes there, and hard stuff too!

lemme guess, you're an engineer...

John, I still think you are the best climbing shoe re-soler ever! I suggest any of my customers here in So. Oregon to send their shoes to you, thanks for posting your current info! Matt

I'll give you $300 for the ledge. Only offer.

god damn that is sad

On Friday night my friend and partner Jason Lane was killed in a car accident on his way home from 4 corners. I don't know if anyone here knew him but he was a stand up guy and one of the best climbing partners I ever had the chance to rope up with. He will be missed. Jason lived his dreams. He was in love with all things wild and untammed. He told me the only place he loved more then Montana was Alaska. He climbed big peaks in South America, the Hymilaya, and the Alaska range. He was a mountain guide and entrepreneur. We learned to ice climb togther. We climbed El Capitan for our first trip up the big stone. And traveled to Nepal tohether for our first climbing trip outside of the States. All he'd want is for us to tilt a cold one back for him. cheers bro RIP

no, not a good thing at all. I doubt the clove slipped. It had been weighted from him jugging an entire pitch allready. the fall was onto one biner on one bolt, and didn't weight the powerpoint. cloves can break. i am not sure at what weight they break under. basically it was exactly waht you DON'T want to do, which is why I'm telling the story.

ah whatever. there is no pride in having enemies. I'm not one of those people with too much pride to admit they fucked up. those people anoy the shit out of me. [edit] maybe this belongs in the Cafe Sensitivo forum??? ....whatever the fuck that is!

Thanks for allowing me back, I appologzie for being a dick to any of you in the past. I hope you can forgive and forget. I have no beef with anybody here, and am just glad to be able to join in on some of the conversation here again. Have fun climbing! Cheers , Matt

different strokes for different folks dude. there is a whole group of climbers that values hard bouldering just as much as you value something like freeing the Nose. Sorry you are so unaccepting of your fellow climbers who enjoy watching bouldering. That said, REEL ROCK TOUR is at our gym next Saturday night. $8, includes beer and raffle. www.roguerockgym.com

yeah Kurt, sorry to hear about your fall, glad you are hangin' in there! ladders freak me out!

you have to look closer at my posts on the first page. My partner was cleaning a pitch on a fixed rope. P4 of Tangerine Trip, El Cap. The pitch goes up for 100ft, then over and down for about another 100ft. He had just finished cleaning the downward traverse (in which he was above the belay) doing a series of lower outs with jumars and a gri-gri. He came to the last piece before the anchor which was about 20ft directly above me. It was a fixed lost arrow. I told him to lower off it and swing into the belay. He took his jugs off, started lowing a foot or two and the pine broke in half. Factor 2d (or damn close) on to a clove hitch that i had hime fixed on, bad idea. Hope that makes sense. Not mentioned was that it was almost midnight and we were totaly worked. In hindsight since he was effectively in a leading position, not a cleaning position at that point I should have had him on belay. What I didn't mention is that I had a second back-up rope (he wouldn't leave the ground without it) that I was belaying him off my harness with. His fixed rope caught first on the anchor. On another climb (solo of Zodiac) I fell onto a clove hitch halfway up the Nipple Pitch. I clove hitched the bolt at the Nipple to prevent the rope rubbing on an edge when cleaning, then took a fall two moves later. It was a rough fall with only about 15ft of rope out from the clove. What I learned: don't clove pieces when you are rope soloing, Werner Braun confirmed this by later telling me that cloves had been severed in this application from the force of the biner smashing the clove into the rock. in other words, don't be an idiot like me!

from experience, tipping the portters doesn't allways work either unless you tip them each privately in their own currancy. Usually they could get arrested having huge loads (like $20 worth) of US dollars. And if you give all the cash to the lead porter/sirdar he will just pocket himself.

you suck bitch ha!

personally I think Andy and his crew (sorry don't know all their names) did an excellent job with the Circuit, and franlky I am totaly jealous about all their huge holds and supurb flooring. can't comment on the 'scene' other then my climbing team loved it.

been gone for almost two years now and this f'kn web site hasn't changed a bit! ha! nice rant JayB pope spewing about bolts already by the second page in a thread that has nothing to do with bolting or sport climbing...

Fromage has good beta, I'd add: Only tip them if they in turn tip the sherpas/porters/camp cook, etc., who actually do all the work and take most of the risk. International guides are basically just liasons between the locals and the clients since the locals are usually shy (maybe not confident in their english) talking to clients. I say this having guding experience in Nepal. The Nepalis do all the work and deserve the tip. The guide basicallyt gets a free trip and some pocket money.

that's fucked up...

thanks for the welcomes. good to be back. I mainly wanted back to use the Yard Sale forum. The Gym business is cool. I just got $1000 in new holds for our comp this weekend, like Christmas. Been cragging a ton, and doing more trips to Yosemite. I enjoy it, coaching the kids climbing team and routesetting are my favorite parts. The only thing I don't like about it is marketing...and accounting I guess. Waiting for winter...praying for rain. yeah and it was Glacier Peak, and the two chicks I was with called the rescue, not me...one is now my wife so I guess it all turned out ok. cheers! Free Beer in my gym next Saturday!

the color scheme confuses me. I like how Aliens are coded better.