Lambone

Cool, thanks matt...I was wondering about that one... Chrysten isn't a newbie...but she precieves epics in a different light than most of my other partners. A long walk on the descent is ok, it's exposed 4th class downclimbing with loose rock that I hope to avoid for obvious reasons. Edith looks cool. From the photo in the book, route finding looks to be the crux...or do you just follow the fixed gear, and other such since of former newbie ascents?

Hey, pulled that one out from the vault eh Dru...?

Thanks matt, those look great! Anymore favorite crusiers out there?

Klenke, I don't think the current condition of the trail really keeps any people out of there...it just makes it annoying to crawl over lots of logs. Crawling over logs on a trail maybe your criterea for a true wildeness experience, but not mine. If you have a trail in the frist place, it might as well be clear, just my opinion... The current log foot bridge is pretty cool! [ 07-15-2002, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Ahhhh yes Dru! Those will be our next objectives after we warm up on the NF of Temple. You know...just to get our life together started off on a good foot... I thought about putting a sandbag disclaimer on my original question...but I wanted to see Dru's response, I think Canadians love to see Americans epic on their home turf eh?

Ahhhh yes Dru! Those will be our next objectives after we warm up on the NF of Temple. You know...jus to get out life together started off on a good foot... I thought about putting a sandbag disclaimer on my original question...but I wanted to see Dru's response, I think Canadians love to see Americans epic on their home turf eh?

My future wife and I will be spending three weeks up there on a honeymoon/climbing excursion. It will be our first time in the Canadian Rockies... Can anyone recomend some good routes to shoot for in mid-september? We are looking to do some of the classics, near the road(one-two day trips), glacier walk-ups with not much objective danger/ mellow alpine ice colouirs/ classic ridge lines/ or long moderate rock routes, that don't crumble (too much). Basicaly we want to have fun on some relatively low stress climbs, get some good views, and just get aquainted with those awsome peaks. Back packing trips that left a permanent impression would be nice too, or a combination... The Canadian Select guide outlines the popular routes pretty well, just wondering if you folks have any favorites. Cool, thanks.

Climbed it this weekend, nice peak! Two large goups (20 climbers) up there also, all except for one grumpy "leader/guide type" guy were way cool. The aproach isn't as bad as I was expecting. Getting through the deadfall on the otherside is the crux, and crossing the log is a bit airy. How come the park service doesn't maintain such a popular trail? The hike would be more pleasnt with less downed trees in the way... Hardly any bugs, no need for repelent. Condidtions on the route were excelent, minimal crevase danger. What a veiw! [ 07-15-2002, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

How does the approach compare to the Boston Basin approach. My fiance and I may give it a go this weekend. Any good bivi site recomendations? Thanks

glen is a hazardous enigma... we'll just have to wonder, 'cause he is at Feild Camp in Dillon,Mt for the next 3 weeks. [ 07-11-2002, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Let me clarify a bit. My partner had done the route last fall and did not recall a bolt above the tripple roofs, about 15ft below the belay. Others have stated that the bolt was a replacement of an old one. So my friend must have been mistaken. "Chicken bolt" is a term i have heard wall climbers use to describe lead bolts added to a route by subsequent parties not bold, or skilled enough to continue with out it. I pose the question out of curiosity, not as an attempt to brew up more bolt controversy. I think pretty much everyone agrees that additional bolts should not be added to classic routes, unless to beef up an anchor perhaps. i think the bolt on that pitch is unnessecary, but if Fred placed the original, then so be it... Maybe I was a little harsh on the Crier, it's not a bad route. I think I just got stuck with the ugly pitches. Have fun, Cheers! [ 07-11-2002, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yes erik, probably super hot now. We roasted aiding up on the Upper wall the other day. Lower wall probly goes in the shade around 3 or 4 o'clock. Try the toxic shock area for some shade. There is a good .11 there for you. Have fun! See ya around, Matt [ 07-11-2002, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

There is a big fat bolt above the Tripple Roofs on Town Crier. It mellows out the fall potential big time, the fall is not dangerous, just big...into space. Is it a chicken bolt, or a replacement of an original Becky 1/4 incher. If it's a chicken bolt, I think it should be chopped. Sport climbing is one thing, but chiken bolts are bogus. Btw- I don't know what all the hype is about the Crier. Sure its a classic line and all, but much of the rock is of poor quality, and the route is tamed by mass amounts of unessecary fixed gear. Anyway, it was fun, but forgetable. The Drag-On is a far superior line. Just my opinion.

Max is from Colorado...Lambone is from Montana. Caveman thinks lambone is max and RuMR. I am Bone, there is no other. Did he win? Sorry for leading this thread astray....what was it about anyway?

Lambone would never claim to be from Colorado...

Lambone hath no alternate avatars...

There is only one Lambone...

The full north ridge of Stewart was one of my all time climbing highlights. Along with the route the same partner and I did on Mt. Hunter in the Winds. Biggest mindblowing experience was the lat pitch of the Nose...exposure from heaven. Topping out on my first Grade 5 ice climb was the most relieved I have ever been while leading. And I was pretty psyched when I redpointed my first 11a, after years of being stuck on the 5.10 plateau. Nepal changed my life. But I still haven't done jack shit worth mentioning on a boulder. ok, done chestbeating...

I hope the gaper helps to give Montana a bad rap, that way people may stay away from it, but I am afraid it's not likely... The Montana rockies are doomed to become as overrun as the Cascades, Sierras, and Colorado Rockies eventualy.

quote: Originally posted by genepires: why do you think a figure 8 knot is more dangerous than a overhand knot? I assume that figure 8 knot discussed is like a euro death knot but made with a fig. 8 instead of a overhand. It is easier for the knot to sort of "unfold" on itself when pulled like apart, as on rappel. It kindof reverses and unrolls. Two people playing tug of war can cause this to occur. The overhand does not tend to "unroll" quite as badly. The AMGA instructor that I took a course with said its quite a bit stronger than the 8 in that respect. Also of note: Be carefull using a reverso to do a single rope "one strand" rappel, especialy if it is a skinny chord. There isn't much friction there. My buddy had to wrap the rope around his leg and hold the rope with two gloved hands o remain in control on a 200ft rap with one 9.8 mil rope.Just something to watch out for.

quote: Originally posted by glen: I think we would all agree that taking your hand off the brake rope often while the other person is leading is not the best approach. There is certainly gray area. Gri-gri's rule... Smoke a cigarrete, take a shot of whisky, pound another jolly rancher, read a book, change the tape, and perhaps take a shit...all while your bro is strung out on cam hooks above fixed mank and a few brassies with one two cam Alien just above the belay... damn I love aid climbing.

I think Dwayner would win, hands down (his pants). Then he can have dinner with himself...as usual. [ 07-01-2002, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

He's got plenty of small nutz...

quote: Originally posted by erik: and all cars in general. truck broke down eh...bummer.