Lambone

Hey Jim ya wanker , Your points are well taken, and I respect those who chose not to bring or use a cell phone when climbing. Sure, maybe we jumped the gun...who is to say. Kinda like leaving the hammer in the car on a C3+F aid route. It is a different level of commitment. I never used to have a cellphone, but my attitude towards them is changing. I think it's a very fine line between abusing it, and using it as an emergency device. If we could have reached our friends and parents to get a weather update we probably wouldn't have dialed 911 in the first place. Once we did we has basically commited ourselves to their help. Once a search is organized they are legally bound to see it through untill the end. However, if you talk to those who are actually out there doing rescues, they are very gratefull for parties who carry cell phones and know when to use them. All I know is that given the situation the SAR coodinators felt we made the right descisions up there. Those guys have some serious experience and I am more willing to belive them then anyone else. Plus they said they enjoyed the practice and were relieved to participate in a succesfull effort. The army guys in the Chinook wre way serious, but grinnin the whole time! [ 07-31-2002, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Lambone. Question. I am not second guessing your experience with this question. I just want to know for my future reference. Did you notice any cloud caps on either Rainier or Baker on your last nice day camping at the summit? Even small ones high above? Stefan, Saturday night the entire North Cascades including Baker, Shuksan, Eldorado, Buckner, etc, etc...way up to Canada(I wish I new them all) all of which were in the clear. Clouds were all well below the treeline. The summit of Whitehorse and the Three Brothers were also above the cloud cap. We could see the Olimpics on the horizon, and there were no sign of large storm clouds coming in. We could not see Rainier to the south be cause it was blocked by the summit of Glacier, but I assume it was also above the cap. We did notice high wispy clouds blowing in, but they looked non threatening. They were probably a sign of the changing preasure system, but we didn't know how to interpret that. Winds picked up as the sun was setting, but that did not seem unusual. By mid-night the house was fully rockin and emergency tent repairs were underway. Good question. [ 07-31-2002, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I think we did four or five single (60m) raps before traversing out on the face. I got pretty scared after almost taking the big spill when a clump of grass gave way. We roped up and simoclimbed the rest, usualy getting one or two solid pieces in per ropelength. We didn't go into the gully because it looked nasty. Instead we gradualy angled high, following fixed belay slings, and met the ridge about one ropelength above the start of the East Ridge route. That worked out well for us, and avoided any gully groveling. Have fun!

quote: Originally posted by erik: like beg erik to come along next time, so he could lead them to safety..... [/QB] totaly, I blame all this on erik and shawn, my two bro's who bailed on me at the last minute and left me alone with two women... (two badass women I should say. despite the phone call they kept pretty damn solid the whole time. oh, except when they had to go out in the gale and pee ) [ 07-31-2002, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: so, lambone, is your fiancee still psyched to to "easy alpine climbs" in the rockies for your honeymoon? i'm always paranoid that if i get my wife involved in an epic i'll never get her out of the city again... haha, we'll see. We may be trending towards the easier of "easy alpine climbs" in the can rockies. Or at least less commiting, especialy in september. But she is keeping her chin up and still wants to get out there, even though she promised god she would quit climbing if he lifted the storm. Luckily he didn't lift it all the way I keep telling her that it wasn't quite an epic, but might have been if we descended in the storm. This little experience taught us alot about each other, the mountains, and how we would do things diferently next time.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I would have had the satellite phone and called the Starship Enterprise to "beam me up Scotty!" "Beem me up Scotty" crossed my mind more than once! Bob, Previously the highest winds I had ever experienced were on El Cap. The wind on Glacier Peak made that day on El Cap seem like a joke. I have been in severe lightning storms and avalanches and you name it, but that wind scared the shit out of me like nothing else. There were times where it felt as if it was trying to pick us up and throw us off the mountain. But it was the cold and moisture that caused us the most distress.

Forrest, I agree, unfortunately my better half does not...so what can you do... When I am out with the bro's the cell stays in the car. Regardless, if we had not showed up by Monday night, our parents would have launched a rescue anyway. [ 07-31-2002, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Thanks for the support folks. Since some seem curious, and even though it sometimes may seem otherwise, I consider you all alpine brethren, here is a brief report of what the hell happened up there. Short version: We got schooled and called for help. Long Version: The Plan: Three days on the Frostbite Ridge. To get the full tour of the peak we planed to carry over the summit and descend the Sitcum. Since we wanted to carry our gear over, we new we had to go as light as possible (being off the couch weekend warriors and all). We decided to save weight by bringing our lightest raingear (no gortex, basically windbreakers), down sleeping bags (mine was rated to 35 degrees when I bought it ten years ago), one fuel canister, and minimal food (barely enough for three days with a hungry walk out). We had the basic survival stuff including a map and compass, but no GPS. Our skills are varied. Although I have been climbing for over half of my life, I still consider myself very a very "green" Cascades climber. My fiancé is even greener on glaciers (though learning fast), and our partner was experienced in the Rockies, but had never worn crampons or used an ice axe. We chose the Frostbite due to the reports that we had gotten from others stating that there was little crevasse, or objective danger, the climbing wasn't very difficult, and it gives an awesome grand tour of the many glaciers on Glacier Peak. Also, I had done the descent previously and felt comfortable with it (or at least if it was visible). Plus we couldn’t get a permit for the dog route on Rainier. Anyway, we had a plan and we were way psyched about it, the weather looked good through Sunday afternoon. The Climb: The first day we approached up Kennedy Ridge and set up a camp around 6,000. Then we spent the afternoon practicing rescue skills and showing our partner the art of self arrest, rope management and crampon skills. Saturday…what can I say, the climbing was great! The Frostbite Ridge is an excellent route and offers many amazing perspectives on the mountain, usually from a safe perch high on the ridge. We made it up past the Rabbit Ears without so much as close glimpse into a crevasse. The weather was excellent up high, but cloudy down low, and the temps and wind were very tame. We came across a few steeper icy sections where we used a running belay with pickets, and our newbie partner did awesome on her first front pointing experience. Spirits were high. We arrived at the summit crater at about 2:00 (we weren’t moving fast with full packs) and made the best of the melt water and flat gravel bed. Things couldn't have been better, until... Mistake #1: This was the fateful decision that led to the whole mess. We were pretty happy to be close to the summit, but be were tiered. The sun was beating down and we began to get lazy. The idea of camping in the crater, finishing the 30 min to the summit and down the Sitcum the next morning became very appealing. We all thought about the possibility of weather moving in, but the ceiling down low was beginning to break up, and we figured we'd have a few hours of sun in the morning. The boots came off, wet ropes and harnesses were laid out to dry, stove was fired up, tents and bevy set up, and we spent the afternoon basking in the sun at a truly glorious alpine bivi spot. The Sitcum Spire rose up directly below us, like an old bony finger pointing at me warning, "You should know better." We watched the spectacular sunset and crashed out eager to rest up for the long trudge down and out. Things fall apart: Then it came. Like a freight train in the night, crazy winds roared in out of calm skies. It howled and shook us awake, instantly we all knew we had made a grave mistake. The next three days sort of seem like a surreal blur. Our friend’s bivi died quickly in the wet torrent, and she moved in with us. We spent the hours wondering when the sun might come back out, how cold it was going to get, would the tent hold up, could we keep our down bags dry, how long would three cliff bars some jerky and a hand full of jolly ranchers last, and mostly...could the three of us make it down the Sitcum with the current visibility...basically 10ft. We passed the hours playing twenty questions, and trying to think of another game that would kill time. Then shifted our focus to staying dry in the 100% humidity, and killed hours coming up with elaborate schemes of drying wet stuff out, none of which worked all that well. By Sunday night the weather had worsened and we began to think of those back home who would be wondering about us. We wanted our friends and family to know that we were ok and sitting out the storm, unfortunately at the summit. The cell phone came out and we tried everyone’s number. We had a full signal but for some reason it wouldn't connect. I forget who said it first, but through the pounding wind on the tent, someone muttered, "Should we try 991." "Uhhh....I guess...but what are we going to tell them." Just for the record...I never wanted to make that damn call, but I was out numbered 2-1. Now that we are home safe, I am glad we did. After listening to the SAR guys and reading iceguy's post, I think it was the smart choice. If we wouldn't have called, our parents would have, and then the SAR folks would have had no idea where we the hell we were. Plus one dude said if our parents called instead of us, he would have had to hump a litter in. That made me feel a little better. Anyway, we tried and it went through. I'll spare the details, but the conversation that ensued with the Seattle 911 dispatch was quite comical. "I know you are on a mountain, but what city are you in...etc,etc..." Finally we got through to the Darrington Emergency office supervisor, and insisted that this was not an emergency, we were ok, warm, and planned to go down when the weather broke. We let them know that our family would be in contact soon, and to please relay the message. Every thing was fine, and we snuggled in for another crammed night in the I-tent. The weather got worse. I've seen some weather in my climbing experience, but I have a whole new respect for weather in the Cascades now. The I-tent rocked and bent and swayed all night. The guy lines broke, and I was almost blown off the mountain replacing them with shoulder length runners. We thought the seams were going to burst, sleep never came, meanwhile our stuff continued to absorb water while ice began to build on everything left outside. Morning came after what seemed like an eternity, yet the sun did not offer any relief. Visibility was still 0 and wind continued to howl. We call back to let 911 know of our situation. We were cold, wet, and beat, and I did not feel confident that I could lead us safely down the Sitcum in the whiteout. I knew we could do it with enough time, but given’ the conditions I assumed that one navigation error could lead to hypothermia and big trouble. Then I learned that our partner forgot to pack shell gloves, and the situation became even grimmer. Before we knew it a rescue was being organized. We insisted over the phone that we were safe in our tent and did not want anyone to risk their lives trying to come get us. "The chopper is on its way" was the reply. It seems that miscommunication between the 911 dispatch, us, and the search and rescue authorities, was the biggest downfall in the efficiency of the whole process. We could not speak directly to the rescue coordinators, and therefore they were given false information about our situation. It was the classic game of kindergarten telephone. We told them we had a green tent and blue bivi bag and could use two dry sleeping bags and some food...the rescuers heard that we were sleeping in a blue tarp and had only one sleeping bag for the three of us. Given the information they had, the rescue party assumed the worst, and an all out assault was launched. The summit team stumbled across us this morning at around 8:30, just as cold and wet as we were (though maybe a little less hungry). We had no idea they were even on the mountain looking for us, yet another miscommunication. As far as we were told on the phone, only attempts to reach us by helicopter were being made, and a team had left the trailhead at 5:30am. Anyway, the gnarly hardmen whom spent the night freezing under a rock at 10,00ft before saving our asses were awesome, and we were damn glad to hear their calls through the infinite whiteness. In retrospect, considering that the weather broke today, I like to think that we would have been fine coming down on our own. However, after our third cold wet night in the tent, spirits were no longer high, and had the conditions persisted I think we would have been fucked. Things may have worked out smoother if we could have spoken directly to the SAR guys, but oh well, not everything works out perfectly. I am just thankfull that no one was hurt because of our stupid decision to camp at the summit. It seem like the SAR guys/girls were more than happy to be out there doing what they love, riding around in bad ass army helicopters, and saving gapers like us. For that I salute them. If any of you guys are reading this, thanks for being there today(no smiley face expresses my gratitude). On top of the intensity of Cascadian weather at 10,000ft, I now have a whole new respect for the operation that SAR runs. Pretty damn impressive… Next time I think I'll bring the synthetic bag, and get the hell of the summit while the gettin is good. Thanks for reading. Happy climbing Matt [ 07-31-2002, 12:19 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yes, it was us. The three of us feel very ashamed and embaressed to have brought on such a massive rescue effort. We would like to thank all the Rescuers who volounteered their time and energy to help us out of the crappy situation we got ourselves in. Originaly we intended to let our families know we were ok, but stuck on the summit in gnarly weather. 911 was the only # that we could reach from our position. That "evil cell phone" call snowballed in to the rescue involving teams from four counties, chinooks, horses, the works...lets just say those guys don't mess around. When some one calls the go all out. Everyone is ok, and the sittuation was never of emergency circumstances. I know I'm gunna get sprayed forever about this, and that is fine. Speculate as you will and enjoy, but after I go get a big cheeseburger I'll write up a report and let you all know exactly what happened up there. For your enertainment or only to help others from making the same mistakes. I hope no one ever has to spend 72 hours with three poeple in a wet I-tent. Thankyou for your concern, Gaper out. Oh, and by the way, I didn't want to get on the damn chopper, but no one else wanted to walk down from Boulder Basin... [ 07-30-2002, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Really cool dave Looks like an amazing tour of the mountain!

Exactly, Rich is correct. But if you plan to depart friday morning, you have to pick up your permit early on thursday morning (24hrs before departure). Then what are you supposed to do during those 24 hrs? Drive back to Seattle for the night...what if you can only get a three day weekend... It's just stupid I tell ya. And to top it off, the ranger laughed at my fiance as well, and was very rude over the phone when all she wanted was some basic information. "Alot of people come to climb this mountain you know....next time reserve a site in April..." Fuck you tool. The park service can kiss my ass. [ 07-25-2002, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

The trailhead is not dificult to locate. It is a very obvious trial. Park, the walk back down the road (back the way you just came) for about 100 yrds. Some people say 50ft, but I don't know what the hell they are talking about, its at least a full 60m rope length. Anyway, make your first right on the well beaten trail. The tricky part comes after you cross the big log that has fallen over the river. From there head more or less straight following the signs of obvious bushwacking, and be carefull of the tree branches that will try to kill you and steal your pack. Once back to the main trail the rest is pretty straight forward up to the talus fields. From there you are on your own. It is pretty steep most of the way and I can't recall many good bivi spots. I would sleep in the car untill about 2 or 3am and then head up with the lightest pack possible. Very beautiful place to visit. Have fun!

"We have backpacked in the Wallowas, Cascades, and Crazies in the past." Hey geezer, Was that the Crazy Mountains in Montana? Man I love that place! Nice job on Rainier, I aspire to be like you in about 40 years. [ 07-25-2002, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

yeah maybe...sure does feel like 35! I got a message from a fella who basicaly did the Frostbite car to car, with a short nap on the summit. impressive!

M9 eh...well I guess if you're doing M9, you probably arent woried about a little slack!

Rangers told us that reserved permits for the walk ups are gone through october...though I smell some bullshit on that one. Thanks for the recomendation jules. We figured we'd have to leave Seattle at 3:00am wed night, drive back to seattle, then leave for rainier again early on friday...thats alot of freakin driving. Fuck that. Sometimes I just hate national parks. We are going to the Glacier Wilderness instead.

I'd argue that Glacier peak is nowhere near 30 miles round trip....more like 20. I't be fun with a super light pack. Eldorado Peak, car to car. Doesn't get you the elevation, but it's a loooong way straight up from the road. If you can start super early and return to seattle before dark, you're probably in good shape for Rainier. The route is mostly non technical, though you do peer into some crevases. Have fun! [ 07-25-2002, 03:39 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Stearling Polyesther 9.5mm. Totaly bomber! And the polyesther does not absorb moisture, or is affected by UV like nylon. Mine has seen many hauls and is still kicken strong.

So whats the scoop on getting a permit for the dog routes at the last minute. The rangers told us that we might as well not even try to get one tommorow morning for this weekend. What do you guys do...Dan, Pencil?? I know someone is thinking...just don't do the regular route. But either the Emmons or DC seem best suited to our teams skill and physical ability level. Any recomendations would be great, thanks. [ 07-25-2002, 11:12 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

sk, you are the one and only SPRAY QUEEN!

The East Ridge is fun, but the NE Face descent sucks a big horsecock.

wow, sweet!

"Sequrity and Fun" I like that, sounds kinda like sport climbing!

I just figured out why Caveman is being such a panzy...he's still trying to con someone into his Rockies sufferfest! Good luck bro, wish I could.

Early morning, or late afternoon Yos...then again, you should be aware of that. Have fun!