Lambone

The Tetons

Ok, you got me wonderin...how do the little x-game wannabes move?

there are plenty of hardcore chicks who would have led my sorry as down in that white out, I just don't climb with any of them. give my fiance a year or two and she'll do the job just fine...

You know, I think about 90% of the people who buy Mythos get them too big on the first try. I use my first pair that are about 2.5 sizes too big as an alpine rock shoe that I ware with mtn socks. They are light, and work pretty well for that. [ 08-01-2002, 09:30 AM: Message edited by: Space Jug ]

This is Lambone's new (and first) Avatar, since some bastard stole Lambones password and changed it... mtngrrrl, Yeah, I pretty much assume that I'll never be able to find a climbing partner from cc.co again, but oh well. I thought people should know how it happened to us, so maybe they can avoid the same stupid mistakes. As I look back, I think damn...we were only pinned down for two and a half days. But lemme tell you, 72 hours trapped in a tiny wet tent with three people seems like an eternity. Our persception and thought processes were distorted from cold, lack of food, and claustrophobia. It's true we wanted outa there, and were scared shitless, and we all decided we needed help to get down safely. Now, safe at home we all agree that we wish we would have just sucked it up and waited for the weather to clear. Oh, and one more thing about the chopper that I faild to mention before. It wasn't called in from Ft. Lewis for an evac until we were safely down at Boulder Basin. We insisted that we were perfectly ok to walk out on our own, but the thirty or so rescuers were so exited to ride in a Chinook that they didn't even listen to us....go figure. It was worth it just to watch the army guy pick my fiance up and chuck her into the chopper like she was a backpack [ 08-01-2002, 09:34 AM: Message edited by: Space Jug ]

A friend of mine just returned from Catedral peak, he said it was realy cool up there. Bring a fishin pole.

I feel obliged to remind you that I didn't make the phone call. I let the members of my party aware of the implications of such an action, and told them that I did not support the idea of asking for assistance. At that point I stepped out of the leadership role and let the group decide how to go about it. Once they made the call I supported their descision. To their credit, they were very calm and collect on the phone. They gave the 911 dispatchers honest information about our situation and told them that we were ok, but if conditions pesisted much longer things could get bad. Were were out of options as far as getting warm, I couldn't think of any more tricks other than an I-tent wrestling match. From that point it was out of our hands and after a risk assesment the Sherrif's department made the desicion to mobilize a rescue. Had information been accuratly passed between both parties through the 911 midleman, things may have worked out differently. Anyway, I coul go on and on. Chatting with you all is helping me bring this crazy experience down to earth a bit. And I thank you all. Now my thoughts are on others less fortunate then us this past weekend. Peace out.

Hmmm...Bone sure did turn into a prick all of a sudden. I wonder what gives

Info Charlie: your name oughta be gay cowboy cause that's exactly what you are. You homosexual bareback rider.

Trask I'm fed up with you and all the other jokers on this site. You all can kiss my ass. In fact why don't you come down to the gym and make an appointment to lick my hole. I'll have my army, you have yours!

LET'S TAKE A POLL... HOW MANY PEOPLE THINK CAPT. CAVEMAN, CHARLIE AND ERIK HAVE GAY SEX TOGETHER. ONE VOTE HERE.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Not me Attitude!!! You "going light" nutz are accidents waiting to happen!!! And Lambone, buy (or steal from VW) a goddamned altimeter and GPS and bring two sets of extra batteries next time. Plus a spare phone. Since when do gym climbers use altimeters?

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Several observations: You should have done this on Mt. Rainier instead. Then Big Lou would have scrambled up there in half an hour, thrown all three of you in his giant Jansport expedition pack (plus your gear). I understand that he carries a lighted wood stove, a snack bar and a soda machine in there so you would have been O.K. In fact, he would have had to talk you into leaving the pack when he reached the Paradise Parking Lot. He would have set you down gently in the Glacier Lounge in the Paradise Inn, where he'd round up some Irish Coffee for the group and let you know that "The Mountain was really showin' off!" with the weather and such. You'll offer to pay for the coffee's but Lou will wink and say..."Don't worry about it...the mountains don't care." Yup...you should been on Rain-Dawg. Also...did you and the girls use blue-bags? If so, you'd better have hiked them out or handed them to the first friendly ranger. (You're lucky you weren't with "pope"...he'd have gone on top of your sleeping bag if there was so much as a small breeze outside the tent.) Oy! It should never happen twice! I'll agree with RURP...your nasty self needs a big ole beer and a burger! - Dwayner Dude, that was post 666...coincidence? Dwayner is the devil!

Still, I think Twight says use Synthetic... The thing with Twights philosophy is that you either use it all out, or don't use it at all. We would have been ok if we had remembered to buy Gu before we left.

I think spraying in the past has given me bad karma that led to my sort of shitty weekend. So I have given it up. From now on I wil only spray on eric, and Caveman...as long as he doesn't threaten to kill me again. Have a fun climb, and don't slip. [ 07-31-2002, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: quote: If it had been with one of my regular (ie. experienced male) climbing partners, no we would have never considered calling. an experienced female wouldn't do the trick, eh.... no, I just don't have any regular female partners besides my fiance...

quote: Originally posted by Smoker: Kudos to all of "us" for having restraint and attempting reasonable conversation. I guess the only point I would make, and I was not there so I'm not second guessing your choices, is this- With an altimeter, compass and topo the Sitcom route is navigatable. But you must be competent to do so otherwise you will get lost and that would be a worse choice than the choices you made. Smoker Very true, and I and my companions appreciate it as well. Hell even Rurp was sort of nice...crazy... Also you are correct about the navigation stuff, unfortunately we only had an compass and topo, but no altimiter or GPS. Still do-able, yes. But without an altimiter the margin for error was higher, considering how much I practice my orientation skills, it was too high. Merely descending the Sitcum would have been one thing, but consider this. We still had the crux of the Frosbite Ridge ahead of us. The last Ice wall to the summit. Before the whiteout we had seen several crevases running different directions at different points around the area. Also, my partner had never used and ice axe or crampons before saturday, and didn't have any shell gloves. This meant I got to do all the leading with thin liner gloves...meanwhile we were soaking wet by the time we had gotten our stuff packed. I figured at most an hour to the summit and three down to boulder basin in a whiteout if nothing went wrong. That's four hours of exposure... I spent along time pondering these facts in that tent...and determined that the odds were not in our favor. As it turns out, our rescuers led out of the ice face with no crampons and ski poles, placing no protection, and we spent an hour at most glissading the Sitcum in the sun... Talk about feeling inadequate... Just goes to show that it's all relative. [ 07-31-2002, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Jim: I've nothing aganinst cell phones to call friends to let 'em know what's up. It's just the "I got myself into this mess, no one's hurt and I want to go home" syndrome. I did help board two folks on a copter on Denali who had called in a rescue. One was tired, the other a sprained wrist from a hard arrest. Is this what we want rescue folks to risk their necks for? Maybe you do, I don't. It's the increased reliance on someone to bail you out that I don't care for. Sounds like if it were his choice, Mr. Lambone would have chosen otherwise. Given the circumstances I feel we as a team made the right choice. Although it really bothered me that calling for help was what it came down to. My fiance and friend were bothered by it also, but they were less inclined to let their egos get in the way of asking for help from profesionals. If it had been with one of my regular (ie. experienced male) climbing partners, no we would have never considered calling. Well, unless we had to jump in the same sleeping bag for more than one night. Still, I do believe that if we were two nights late without calling, one of our loved ones would have initiated a search for us. Obviously not the better alternative.

plexus, I don't know how wands would have helped considering that our line of ascent was different than our planed descent. The Sitcum is such a mellow descent and I feel like an idiot for not just going for it. But it was really fucking cold. Like going out to piss was epic in itself. We'd get all spsyched to charge out in the storm, pack up and head for the top and down, then one of us would go out and piss to test it out, always returning with, "Fuck that I'm staying here..." I considered going back down Frostbite (easy routefinding, just stay on the ridge), but decided it was too long and technical to be done before someone would sucomb to the cold. Ciff Bar Ice- the chocholate mint flavor with Caffine...the only way to go! I guess no one can feel bad for us considering we had one each for three days. They rock. We tried to get inspired by the gnarly ice climber on the packaging, but just wern't feeling like Will Gad. [ 07-31-2002, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: I got pretty scared after almost taking the big spill when a clump of grass gave way. are we starting to develop a pattern here mister gym rat??? Hey, I never admitted to being a very experienced grass climber, allthough since moving to Washington that is changing quickly.

Thanks Bronco. We set up the tent and bivi behind a previously established windbreak made of rocks. It was about two feet high. After the first night we decided to beef it up, so we made it thicker and higher. In the ten minutes it took to do so we were soaking wet to our bottom layers and freezing. It took a couple hours to fully warm up again in the tent. Or bigest concern was that our tent would fail in the night. I have to hand it to Bibler, they make some good shit. But throw away the guy-lines that come with it. The wall may have helped a bit, but I think it was mre of a mental thing. Monday and Tuesday morning we woke up with at least 1 to 3 inches of ice covering evrything exposed to the elements. I think that is when the tent stopped breathing and we got really wet from our own condensation.

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: But too many copters have fallen out of the sky this year on rescues already. No matter how much 'fun' it is for the pilots, they should stay home unless absolutely needed.[/QB] I agree, we told the dispatcher that we did not want a helicoptor sent up, and we would not board one at the summit. But we weren't the ones calling the shots. I was upset about the chopper the whole time. But I do have to admit that it was kinda fun to ride in it.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP: I suppose that we can all learn by the Lambone's epic. Here are some questions to explore: Mr. Lambone says: "I let the members of my party aware of the implications of such an action, and told them that I did not support the idea of asking for assistance. At that point I stepped out of the leadership role and let the group decide how to go about it." Why did you leave the decision up to the two inexperienced people in your party??? Aren't you supposed to be the [more] experienced guy on this trip? Democracy is over-rated in such situations. Your choice of equipment also seems pretty poor considering the group and the objective. 911 means "save our lives", not "I'm gonna be late for dinner". It sounds like you indeed were rescued and needed it. Still, I would have walked out instead of riding that helicopter. These things do happen. Good to see that neither the "climbers" nor the rescue-guys got hurt. Good luck next time; you know doubt learned a lot. Have this beer... Maybe a few more are in order: RURP has spoken. Rurp, Thanks, I think that is the first time you have ever "sort of" been nice to me on this web site... One question for you, have you ever been stuck in an I-tent in fierce winds with too feminists who are best friends, one of which is about to be your wife? If not I am not sure you can relate. And I can assure you that we did not call for help be cause we were missing dinner, work, class, or whatever else. Bottom line is there was a thin thread of todd-tex between us and death from exposure...and that was real fuckin scary for all of us. We were all to aware that we made a few bad descisions, but the people who came up to the summit to help us down said that calling them in was the best descision we made. I insisted on walking out. Not out of pride or accomplishment, I was just tired of risk. But it was 35 to 1, and I didn't feel like I was realy in the position to argue with them.