Lambone

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: well, having had a chance to take in all the information y'all have so graciously provided, i've come to the unfortunate decision that neither one of you are very cute. and i'm not sure i'm impressed with guys who live in caves or barns. i guess i'm going to have to go back to choosing my climbing partners by how hard they climb ... missed ya at the gym last night hot stuff...whats up with that???

goddamn, what an eliquent statement.... do us all a favor and shut the hell up Larson

A week ago it was skiable to the lake with a few rocks out here and there, but I wouldn't say that it's worth lugging skis up there.

you move here or somethin c?

Greg, you forgot one more thing...ice tools. Merymore is the perfect dryland icetool training. Just watch for loose rock

naw dude, you'll be fine...go for it!

Check out December... Lamb-bone Want my number? [ 06-10-2002, 11:13 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Probably not many dude. I did this route in August a while back and we didn't come anywhere near an open crevase. The closest one was almost 100 yards to the right. Go for it.

got to fiddle with a reps demo model. they are unbelievibly light, small, and flexible. I say that because I don't believe the smallest would hold a fall. however, it seems like they'd eliminate the need for pins (blades and thin arrows) in many circumstances. if they come out with an offset version, they will definiatly contend with offset aliens.

Quick question John... What kind of rock gear is needed to protect the upper ridge section? I assume a basic set of nuts and hexes...mostly easy 5th class right? Oh, also...I should have listened to your advise about not needing snowshoes last weekend! Cheers

and the money...

Dude your starting to sound like PolishBob...

Yup, that was Chrysten and I. Nice chattin with you guys, killer bivi site! We tried the but glisade and it just hurt to much... Shoulda hung out and waited with you guys, but we had to get back in town. Hope to see ya out again sometime!

BTW- The first ascent of N. But. Coulior was done in July.

Totaly, when I mentioned an early start, I was thinking be up to the Butress by sunrise, before the sun comes over Balanced Rock and hits the couloir. At least thats how I'd do it...

Ok Yeah, right. The North Butress, not Northeast... It looked great. From the summit it didn't look as if there was much snow on the ridge. Go for it!

I am not sure which one the NE Couloir is, but the prominant one on the right looks best. Colchuck The couloirs still have lots of snow, and most have slid out recently. But there was no avalanche activity over the weekend. I could see a boot track heading to the larger couloir on the right (North) that leads to the NE ridge. Not sure which one is which. The one on the left (which I believe is the one ScottP and friends wrote about earlier looked threatened by cornices. Chrysten and I were tempted to go up the one on the right, but didn't feel confident about the ridge without rock gear. We heard loud rockfall at around 8:30, but couldn't see it. I'd say go for it, but start way early! Have fun! Let me know if you have more questions.

Don't scratch your balls...and piss no-handed!

Right on Tom! We were up there on Sunday. That boot pack up the glacier sure was nice eh. Like a giant outdoor stair climber. My fiance smoked me on it cause she trains on those things during the week. We summited at 8:30 and came down around 9:00. The Glacier was still too firm to glisade safely Great spot! It was our first time up there. Will be back for Dragontail!

For sure, just messin around...good luck! Cheers

ummm...I hear the Becky guide has a decent topo. Sorry, couldn't resist...

By the way, Fab's rendition of that epic is over 45 minutes long, and makes for a wonderfull time killer in a cramped bascamp tent. I'd highly recomed his service if you are ever in Europe or Nepal.

Caveman...that is one of the coolest things you have ever said here. Brief story: A friend of mine who happens to be a guide, had to be rescued of a gnarly mixed route in Scotland. (The full details of the epic, which are absolutely hilarious, are much better heard over beers. All I can say is, "BOB...I think I'm fucked Bob! BOB, here is what I want you to do! BOB, turn around and start yelling for HELP! Yell louder BOB!) Anyway, eventually sometime in the middle of the night they made it down from the route. They said thankyou and huged all their rescuers, and tried to slip out the back of the crowd...then one rescuer says, "wait, where you goin, we got the chopper comin for you guys to take you to the hospital..." Fab, seeing $$$ signs, winces and says uuuuhh, thats really unessecary, were fine, thank you, we'll walk out to the car now...The resure says, no, chopper left the base five minutes ago. A minute later a giant Chinook comes out of nowhere and blows my buddy on his ass. Turns out, to my buddies great relieif, that rescues in Scotland are free, no questions asked. The government writes it off as Military training. The whole rescue crew was way psyched just to be out in the middle of the night takin care of buisness!

Does Scott'thetoolterx realy recieve an email after everyone of these posts? If so I have reached a new level of satisfaction that cc.com can offer!