Lambone

I think we might have dropped a brand new Blue Alien on the first pitch of Outerspace this weekend. We did the Remorse(left variation) start and my partner was using that size piece (we had two)after the crux slab move. At the top of the pitch we only had one. Your welcome to it if you find it, but for good karma points send me a PM. Thanks, matt [ 08-05-2002, 01:50 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's basically the accepted means by which one progresses in sport climbing, as the emphasis is on pushing ones physical limit, not the technical mastery of quickdraw placement. [/QB] yeah, i like that

quote: Originally posted by Don Gonthier: Lambone. If its not such a big deal, why give it a special name? Why don't you just say 'hey I lead that' or 'I fell on a that while toproping'? See, come on now, it is a big deal to you. You wish you could place the draws on lead, but ya can't, so you give it a special name to preserve your ego. Think about it. I'm sure most sport routes you climb it makes no difference, but there has to be a few that without hanging draws first you can't climb free. It dosn't matter if its only just a tiny bit easier. If you can't do it without pre placeing draws, you still can't do it. Changing the name of somthing dosen't change the thing. The thing I don't like is that while we all have a limit at which we all fall off, if a climber were to pre hang draws on a 10a he wouldn't get quite the respect that a climber prehanging draws on a 12a would get. Yet the tactics are exactly the same. Its all about ego. Lambone this is not an attack on you personally but just a random rant. Don, Maybe I should have been more clear. I think the names are rediculous, which is why I didn't choose to address a "red point or a pink point"...in my opinion you either climbed iot without falling, or you didn't. If you did it on-sight, well good for you. I think sport climbing is much more about the climbing itself rather than the protection, which is why it realy doesn't matter if the draws are hanging or not. I have never tried to "pink-point" a route with fixed draws because my tendons are too weak for that shit. Trad climbing on the otherhand is all about having the skill to place good protection while on the sharp end. If you aid up, or rap down at your leasure leaving bomber gear for the free attempt...well your not realy trad climbing in my opinion. Sure you did the moves, but thats only half of the game... See where I'm coming from? As for redpoint or pinkpoint...those are just stupid names that someone came up with in the late 80's and I think it's kinda funny that people are still bitching about it 15 years later...

yeah, or no partner at all...

I sold will strickland my old ice tools...I got paid, he got tools, and now we are friends...although we still haven't managed to hook up. Sounds like Red needs to grow up a little.

Did Orbit and Outerspace this weekend (first time), I'd have to say that those are the coolest chickenheads I have ever seen!

The East Face of Minuteman was my first route at the pass. I enjoyed it. Some of the rock is crap, but the spiltters make it worth it. The crux is a pumpy small hand crak that I rember being a bit awkward, and the handcrack on the final pitch is stellar.

That's pretty funny. For those who haven't been there recently, the trail head that begins down the residential street is closed. Instead drive past the old parking lot about 1/4 mile and park in the big new lot on the left side of the road. The new trail head adds about 1/2-1 mile to the hike. Hopefully it will scare some of the people away.

1) Camp pretty much wherever the rangers tell you you can. The higher the better. 2)I saw a big moose on the trail once. He looked pretty mean. 3)Bring good rain gear and watch for lightning. 4)Leave the cell phone at home. oh yeah, Irene's Arete is one of my all time favorite routes. [ 08-02-2002, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

anybody wanna go do Baker...planning to bivi on the summit...

we did finish it...I'm going rock climbing...

quote: Originally posted by 666: I dont know what's so damn hard about WALK THE FUCK OFF THE MOUNTAIN when someone is capable of walking up to the summit and bivying next to you [/QB] Your absolutey right, unfortunately it didn't work out that way...but it's in the past now. Maybe you've heard the phrase, "A climbing team is only as strong as it's weakest member." yeah I know...just another one of RURPS cliches... [ 08-02-2002, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: Space Jug ]

Top secret my friend!

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: Hey Lambone- I'm real curious...how many hours was it between the first phone call and the time you saw the Men in Blue at the door of your I-tent? We first called late Sunday night to see if they could get a message to our folks. They asked us to call back the next day. Sometime monday we told them we needed some help. That afternoon a team was dropped off by chopper at Boulder Basin. They bivied that night at the summit. We had no idea they were there, 911 failed to relay that information. They stumbled across us packing up to get the hell outa there at about 8:30 Tuesday morning. If we had known they were there we would have went to meet them earlier, or the night before. RURP, I'm not sure why I chose to go back and forth with the likes of you, but what the hell... Alex Lowe was someone I met on several ocasions in his hometown of Bozeman, we were never buddy buddy or anything, but he was one of the most positive, encouraging, and welcoming burly Montana climbers I ever met. Say what you will about him, but your words don't mean much to me. As for my experiences in the mountains, a succesful trip is something that passes and the high lasts for a while, but after some time there are only boxes of slides and jumbled memories of cool pitches, good friends and views. For me it's the unsuccesfull climbs that remain in my head much longer. Maybe its cause I end up reflecting on it and trying to get over the dissapointment, whatever it is...it makes an impression. Call that cliche if you like, I just call it my opinion. Have a good one.

Thanks Term. I kept thinking about that solo experience you had on Rainier while we were up there. I wish we could have been that tough, but it just wasn't the case. Plus I was jealous of that GPS you had. I've never used one, but it sounds like it helped you out. While up there we killed time by trying to invent the next million dollar outdoor product (inspired by the cliff bar story that we read many times to eachother). I came up with a "Crevase Finder." Sorta like a fish finder, but for big dark cold holes instead. If there are any techno wizes out there who'd like to help me make it I'll split the profits 70/30 with ya.

Jens, good idea, but don't forget the dynamite!

what have you been waiten for sucker...this shits old news by now... I'll get my chance after you haveta get your fat ass hauled outa BC! [ 08-01-2002, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

trask, buy your fat women a feathered friends 750 fill coat and no one will be able to tell the difference!

nice hiku trask... this belongs in a different thread, but... yeah your probably right. Yet our third partner had synthetic and was relatively warm (and soaked) the whole time. the bibler didn't colapse in the wind (or I wouldn't be writting this), but I think it did have a lot to do with our moisture problems. anyway, kiss it sucka

yeah erik, down can fuck you...especialy in the summer. but I have to admit that my FF "Big Blue" has hooked me up many a cold winter night. just to be fair, I have a Western Mountaineering down bag that kicks ass over all. but come to think of it...I have decided to sell it all for cheap heavy synthetic...any takers?

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: In case you can't afford a Feathered Friends jacket, they have a deal for you! Take a look: http://www.featheredfriends.com/sale_pages/salevst.htm http://www.featheredfriends.com/sale_pages/salejkt.htm These jackets are 750 fill down and perfect for you hard core climbers! Layer these under a shell or use them as a shell on their own. You must be an employee... I get it, colin is crackbolter...sweet! your busted dude...

quote: Originally posted by CaptainCrag: I bet John Roskelly would call you an idiot to your face and tell you to stay home next time. I don't care who flames...you can't touch me so fuck off in advance... since this discussion has opened to spray... Gimme one reason why I should give a fuck what Jon Roskelly would say to me, and how the hell do you know in the first place? If your idea of success is what other people think of you, well I think you got bigger problems than I do my friend. If you think I do care about what others think of me or my climbing, would I have shared all this information with you all? I'll quote the great Alex. "The best climber is the one having the most fun." He never passed any judgement on those whom he carried off the mountain on his back...even went to visit them in the hospital. In my opinion, what makes a great climber is not measured by success, but how they handle failure. And I'm sure any great mountaineer such as John Roskelly would agree. Good day Mr. Fuck off in advance. Oh, and thanks flebflebfleb! I'd go climbing with you just so I could yell "OFFF BELAY FLEBLEBLEB!!!" [ 08-01-2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Lambone is back to his old self. Lick this Trask

jus to clarrify, thats not what happened on our trip. we made a group decision and I was out voted.

only? sweet...there ya go!