Lambone

Eldorado

COME AND GET IT! ARRRGGHHHH!

I bought the Nokian Vattiva Mud Terrain tires for my Tacoma. Love 'em! They have about 3k miles on them now. The other tire I was strongly considering was the Cooper Discoverer STT.

f-yeah, good luck bro! hell yeah I'm coming!

nice pack pete! wish I had some extra coin! Matt

6 is too young. way to young.

Hi Bob, good luck getting volounteers. i will help if I can. One thing i can say is please make sure the judges are well trained in the rules, and that the lead belayers know how to belay kids. One thing I saw at Regionals was some poor static lead belaying, which may be ok for an adult but not for a kid. My team kids were afraid of the belay while leading. Thanks.

Layton, C-Ya, enjoy Seattle...its a cooler city anyway IMO. Jeff Taylor says hi down here in Ashland. you should join us sometime.

Eldorado Wall Company distributes "Rose Autobelays," I think they are around $1,500 to $2,000. Most of the risks have been identified above. The devices require maintenance, and testing. Also they need to be calibrated for the appropriote weight of the climbers. Documented failures have been seen with the devices, particularly worn cables snapping. Also user error including people not even clipping into the thing. They don't nescesarily allow for climbing without a qualified supervisor, especially with kids. Someone needs to be there to check that their harness is on properly and they are clipped in right. I don't have any in my gym because I think the negatives and $ ouitweight the positives. We rely on good old fashoined belaying. Also i wouldn't recomend putting anything but a bouldering/traversing wall in a schoold, with adequate padding and a system to keep kids off it when unsupervised.

Wild Things Epic Hoody, with Primaloft. It's the bomb. Pro Mountain Sports

don't thank me thank Chicken Skinner, I'm just sharing his work with you guys because I think it's cool and something every climber should see. If you go to Supertaco and search his name you'll turn up tons of cool threads that he has posted with classic Yosemite climbing memorabilia including old gear and photos. I think he runs or is putting together the climbing Museum in Yosemite. Cheers

Wranglers nab the Lost Arrow Spire This is some classic stuff right here! Check it out! Thanks to Yosemite Climbing Historian Ken Yager (aka Chicken Skinner) for scanning the article.

nice post on the front page. volounteer days rock, and Index rocks!

Not too much shit on your belay loop. two daisies and a gri-gri...vs two daisies and a biner w/backup knots. Yes once the loop of rope gets heavy enough it feeds automatically, at first you have to pull it through... one drawback is that you have to sort of uncam your bottom jug a little to push it up sometimes, which isn't so bad once you get use to it.

not sold on the Metolius Easy Aider. I haven't tried it, but it looks like a clusterfuck waiting to happen. I prefer the standard 2jumar/2aider method. I believe most speed climbers use this tried and true method. My aiders have elastic to keep my feet in the loop, but I have also had sucess with a big fat rubber band (like the kind that holds broccli together in the grocery store). I typically have my Gri-Gri on the rope as well in lue of tying redundant back-up knots, and I stay tied into the rope. Sometimes I'll use the 1jumar/1 gri-gri method. mostly on traversing pitches with lower-outs. I have heard good things about the Frog system if you are Jugging 1 loooong overhanging line. Cavers use it...but in wall climbing it is probably less efficient in most applications. plus it requires extra gear.

I Tent, of course!

Kane, I had a Tempest before my I-Tent (that I am nowselling). I sold the Tempest because it was too heavy. It is almost a 3 person tent, and with 2 vestibules that add a lot of weight. It's comfy, but not a "light and fast" sort of tent. It also is harder to fit in small bivi spots on a climb. I'd say is more of a basecamp tent, while the I-Tent is for on the route. My wife loved the Tempest, but then again she never had to carry it...

Kan, I had a Tempest before my I-Tent (that I am nowselling). I sold the Tempest because it was too heavy. It is almost a 3 person tent, and with 2 vestibules that add a lot of weight. It's comfy, but not a "light and fast" sort of tent. My wife loved the Tempest, but then again she never had to carry it...

The two little holes are no big deal. Some ripstop repair tape and a dab of seam grip. and you wont even see them. I don't have the vestibule, but I do have the ground cloth.

oh, oops, ok pics sent

kane, sorry never got your email or pm, send it again. matt

holds and portaledge sold

nothing like having a partner bail 5 pitches up El Cap....your right, fuck 'em!

portaledge added to list

yeah well we bought about 4,000 holds from Franklin to start, so I'm just trying to move some and bring in some new stuff from other companies. these holds arn't the greasy polished holds you'd think of when you think of used gym holds from lets say VW or Stoney G's, they are really hardly used.