Lambone

nice job! do GD and TC in a day and you are ready for some Wallin' in the Valley!

I saw Michael Reardon's slideshow at ABS Nationals in Maryland this weelkend. It was pathetic. Sure some of the pictures were nice, and the climbing was cool and all....but all he did was ramble on and on and on and on and on and on about himself and how cool he is. Some of his slides sat on the screen for 5 minutes because he couldn't stop talking about himself. Worst show ever. The funny part was that no body was paying attention, everyon was just hanging out by the free beer having their own conversations.

Hi Folks, we are hosting the season opener for the USAC Sport Climbing Series. 60 new rope routes, Lead and Top Rope, Redpoint format. www.roguerockgym.com

a little bitch... just kiddin', nice Mike!

I really like my Granite Gear "Alpine Vapor" pack. http://www.backcountry.com/store/GRG0037/c3/s8/Granite-Gear-Alpine-Vapor-Backpack-3600cu-in.html

Lambone vs Cpt Caveman and Dwayner

Cool, It was fun helping Pete put that up.

way to go Jason! see ya in the gym! Matt

Sweet Ryland! Hey, call me next time you go there ok!?

Cool, you spelled "Hallow Flake" wrong....

We hiked into Root Creek. The larger falls at the base of the canyon was flowing, but it would be sweet if it froze. We decided to keep heading up and bushwhacked left of the falls around the cliffband, got stuck in some thick Manzanita. We made it to the base of the East Face of Castle Dome, and scoped a promissing looking line in the gully between the E Face and the Mansion. I think people rap this gully to get to the East Face? We decided it looked a little too thin and unprotectable. Maybe if it was a bit colder it'd be a good climb, looked like some rambly WI2 to s WI3 top pitch. So we contoured around and up under the north side of Castle hoping to find some smears in the shade. Not much there unfortunately, besides a frozen Root Creek. For all the hiking we were doing I almost pulled out the tools for some ice crawling! Eventually we spotted something worth climbing, just about on the opposite side of the canyon from the "Dike Route." It was about a 40 meter WI3 pitch with a 30ft steep section at the bottom. We TR'ed it because the ice looked scetchy. Fun, but not worth the bushwhacking. We decided to keep going up to the saddle and go down the trail rather then reverse the bushwhack down Root Creek. That took a while, but the trail was nice. It is sweet up there in the winter. All in all it was a lot of hiking for not many swings, but I am suprised and glad we at least got on something. Would I do it again, no. But it was/felt kind of an adventure exploring for ice. There has to be better ice then that somewhere in the Crags I am thinking up past Railroad park Road, we stopped off there and saw some big and good looking lines way back there, but the FS road is gated. Ideas?

Lillooet is pretty close to Seattle....

Ian, we are going up to root creek on Tuesday. Hittin the TH around 9:30. We'll probly be easy to spot. cheers!

Anyone who says "Hyalite sucks" clearly has never swung a tool there.

ha, yeah Ian thought this was about mixed Trad+Sport! He doesn't need to self promote, his routes are the real deal...not the typical overbolted bullshit you find at other crags. bring RPs. Ian, the reason there aren't more routes in Castle Crags is that both past and future generations are to lazy to hike up ther and hand drill protection bolts (myself included) you are the exception. If it were closer to the road and not in wilderness designation it'd have lines everywhere. cheers

There is definately something to be said for not getting in over your head without leashes. In the years I was learning to ice climb in Hyalite, there were definately many routes where leashes very well may have saved me. I remember being completely freaked out, frozen, and freakishly pumped, stuggeling with all the might I could muster to get dull screws in the cold, brittle ice. Thinking about those routes now, without leashes I would have fallen for sure. I spent a while top roping without leashes before ever getting on the sharp end without them, and ony on grades within my comfort level. Obviously you don't want to fall, so be damn sure you can hang on to them tools before heading up steep ice. And remember ice allways looks mellower from the ground. [edit]this post was intended for the nOObs on this forum rather then the hardmen cheastbeaters comparing resumes who already obviously know everything about climbing and how it should be done.

sic ran into Colin for the first time in Sept at the base of Middle Cathedral....like running into an old friend! wow

ghetto blaster

Do you guys understand that the possible closure being discussed is not about Perigrine falcons or any endagered bird? It is to protect "Golden Eagles and Prarie Falcons as well as other cliff nesting species.". Got any of those in Washington? The proposals and maps can be found here: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/cleveland/projects/projects/seasonal-closures/index.shtml Also, Perigrine closures you are talking about have a 300ft raduis. This closure has a 1/2 mile radius. There is a big difference in existing closures around the United States and the one being proposed.

Cool, It was nice to meet you up there Ian! I like your routes! (I was with Shannon and her mom Danielle, and we met at the base of 6 toe) Seems like a cold snap is coming at the end of this week and I might go scope the north side for some ice...

Just passing on info for the sake of awareness. People can draw their own conclusions from there... Here is the only info I could find related to access issues posted on the Access Fund website: http://www.accessfund.org/regions/news/CA

You think you're so subtle. Why don't you just come out and say "leashless is the best climbing because..." whatever, I just think it is more fun, I really don't give a shit when it comes to the word "better" in any contex of climbing style. except for maybe bolting practices.

Cross-post of some more good points: (not mine!) original post here, by furbucket: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=303688

no worries, I hear what you are saying about making the standards equal for all user groups. hopefully if this happens the effects are limited to the crag in San Diego... write a letter....and honestly I have never written a letter to the NFS before, but this time I am going to. Here is another thread started by well respected Ca and Yosemite climber Randy Leavitt: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=303688

wtf? you could make the same argument for not climbing at all...