bigwallben

Happen to have the day off and am looking for world wall partner. Can drive. Ben

PM sent. Ben

Temps around North bend today were a balmy 60 degrees; though the wind gusted most of the day. That said, we climbed at World Wall (I) and all routes are BONE DRY. The rock was about as sticky as it gets. For those who know...that spells Rhinolicious. Best, Ben

Thanks Rudy. Yeah, I thought there was Mike Orr in there, but, I wasn't sure. RyanB, regarding ratings...well, it depends on lots of stuff, but in regards to the route at hand, probably the two most important factors are temp's and sequence. I believe that the route received a split grade because it is possible to climb onto Iron Horse just after pulling over the steep bulge. This would effectively give the climber a ticket to rest (almost no hands) for infinity. It never occured to me to climb it this way. The path I followed kept me in a direct line with the arete and the bolts that protect it. However, recently I did Power Horse 12c which links Iron Horse into the arete of Amandla; so, I suppose I could have done Amandla this way. Regarding Chronic, I dunno. I can do that thing like 5 times in a row. I had amandla just as dialed and probably couldn't do it on command. But, those climbs are polar opposite.

Amandla... The ascent chronology to the best of my knowledge. Yeah, Power Horse is a great option at realistic 12c. - Andy DeKlerk - Mike Orr - Justen Sjong - Hawk Berry - Ben Gilkison w/ extension - Sonnie Trotter - Andrew Philbin w/ extension

Never been on that one. Perhaps Mikey might comment... But, I definitely salute Jesse for getting er' done! Nice work amigo.

For anyone who cares. You can still access Static Point. There is a large machine tearing out the bridges/culverts on that last little stretch of road. The trail is very overgrown. Beautiful setting up there for sure. Climbed online. Nice route.

Saw an earlier post with an inquiry to access. Has anyone been out there. Access? Thanks.

Why are you wasting your time talking about that super lame pile? I'm sure it was super back in the 80's. I agree with Rumr. You can do it with 3 golds....just start walking them up. You can place a blue and one red.....

J-man. Nice send bra! Heard it from a friend...

people really clip that piton?

how was the river crossing?

Jens, Just made a pair with much success! I used contact cement (one whole bottle for 2 pads). I think the trick is getting enough cement on both surfaces. The neoprene is rather porous. So, I would start out by applying liberally to the pad. Wait ten minutes. Apply lots of cement to both surfaces where it counts. Wait ten minutes. Carefully line up pad and rubber. Place rubber on pad. Now, drive car onto pad and leave for four or five hours. Remove car. Now you are ready to send! Oh wait. Before sending: save legs, spray on glue, and pull on pad with much effort.

-ankles away... (11c/d) -wailing banshees..(11a/b) -love potion #9 (10) -White punks on Dope (8+) say hello to the yellowjackets for me.

Thanks for posting. Nice to see some granite.

Redpointed all three of these climbs a couple years back. Big Daddy involved an easy 10- slab traverse (bolts), an awkwark boulder problem followed by barn doorish (albiet excellent) thin crack finale. BDO is not that much harder than Sentry Box and derserving more traffic. Zombie Roof: I would highly recommend taping up on this one. Actually, I would say taping is a given on most difficult roof cracks; unless you want to have only one go per month. On ZR there is a crux half way out the roof and also turning the lip. The other crux is just placing gear of course. Of the three you mentioned Tim, Flight of the Challenger is by far the best. This climb is just simply amazing. Best route at the pet wall...not sure, cause I have only climbed a few others. But, it is for sure the best hard crack there. The first forty feet are way steep crack and face climbing. The hardest crux comes after a jug stance where the angle becomes vertical. You can place some solid CU's and then bust the moves. Suppose I shouldn't elaborate on the somewhat hidden hold... but anyway, after that there is a very index reminiscent flaring corner with tips in the back. You don't really have to jam all that much. Mostly, just do the foot in the crack twist thing. The last difficult part comes at the end. Remember to bring a fist size piece...

I've heard of people finishing off the last few pitches of Millenium Falcon. I believe it checks in at 11- or something. Sorry to disuade you from attempting the dyke. Perhaps it isn't as bad as I remember. It was a long day for me at the time. Did freeway in the morning and then Grandwall through upper black dyke later that day. One other thing I recall is that it is quite difficult at times to find the bolts on the route. Good luck!

Coming soon: Cruel Shoes, the Grand Wall, and the Black Dyke! I would highly advise against the latter variation. Serious Choss. Of the four pitches that lead off of bellygood the only one of quality is the one that doesn't climb the dyke.

Here are some pictures of my friend Drew Philbin working out the moves on Never Never last fall. The crux occurs in the first fifteen feet...but the last part is no picnic.

i don't know if it was the second ascent, but i rp'd the thing a couple of years ago. i'd say 13a? pretty hard rig man, congrats! Just so everyone knows...this 'slab master' is my boss. And although he has been on part of never never, he has certainly never rp'd it, though at times he comes out of the woodwork to run laps on chronic, when the little si-itus is upon him.

or better yet how about H. Herr's Ride Of the Valkyries--- or the unclimbed testpiece at Katrina Krag too bad midnight rock season is limited to a couple months a year. but yes, supercrack is definitely on my list! the ride of the valkyries is a roof crack right? by careno crag? and what is this katrina krag testpiece? thanks everyone for your encouraging posts! it is so nice to not be stuck in a climbing gym eh?

Sent Never Never crack this afternoon. Alot of work for such a short route, but approach notwithstanding...a better route than most people give credit.

I've never seen the mothaship at windex, but, skills were mentioned, not style; perhaps it was implied... He didn't solo anything while visiting Index.

He has climbed at Index.

Jens, it really isn't that big of a deal. I was down there for a couple weeks earlier in the month. At first I was aprehensive regarding the 'detour' through the Dalles; however, I took the highway (197 I believe) just south of the Dalles and still made it to the grasslands in 5 hours. Granted, that was from North Bend. Really wasn't that bad. And, driving the Eastside definitely beats that lovely I-5 section between Olympia and Portland.