bigwallben

I'm not sure where 'the bad guy' is, but I hear people are sending routes left and right out there. It is so steep, seeping holds could never be an issue.

Mikey, Way to stick with it! It is amazing how height seems to really affect climbing grades at Index. Having 5 to 13 inches less reach at the Dex seems to make some routes grades harder... Us shorties just got to take everything with a grain of salt. The Fifth Force is a good example of this principle. 12b for some and 5.13+ for others. I'm still hoping to redpoint Model Worker someday! Isn't that 11b? Quadruple cracks next? Ben

Thanks for the positive comments everyone. Drew was definitely on it! I'd say following is probably just the same when all is said and done (and spookier for sure). We were just so glad to give our all and not succumb to gravity. Not an easy task. I think perhaps Drew's awesome mustache gave us extra powers.

The Sharp End! Gnarly.

Spent a day with Justy scrubbin and doing moves...but never went back for the send. I thought the climbing was darn good though and I remember some unique double arm bars in the flare leading up to the crux section near the end. Nice job Mikey sending this classic route. Ben G

Let's hope not.

if buckaroo was worth his weight in engineering skillz, that's exactly what he'd be doing, instead of obsessing over whether bin laden or a jd root ball knocked it off. time to fess up mr. I know you gots some sweet bottle jacks.

Please someone glue that block back in place.

R.I.P.

There was a foothold on that block that I really loved. Sad to see it go. Really sad if someone did this on purpose. Ben

Sport climbing is SO weak, gutless...and I really don't know why someone would ever want to do it.

Last week I left some OR gloves at the base of Chronic/Reptiles. They were fairly well beat up. Please let me know if you might have seen them or picked them up. I'd love to get them back. Thanks, Ben

I've heard that the bolts on Tooth and Claw are very old and dangerous. Can anyone confirm this?

Matt, You can find it all here: http://mikeylikesrocks.com/blog/?p=72

Van found! roughly 20 blocks away and nothing stolen.

hi, last night someone stole my white 95' dodge caravan from outside our place in wallingford; it is really stands out with the black rocket box and a "kill your television" sticker on the back. it is an extended cargo version. license number is B24475C. please let me know if you see it out there. thank you. ben gilkison

I've never attempted to Lead City park; nor have ever claimed to. Props to all who could endure the pain. And props to Drew Ruana who will outclimb us all. Ben

What's in Montana?

shite..i live the bligity skigdang. what is the next up from that? Bligity Badoooonga gnar!!

I would also recommend a full can of REDBULL. While drinking this liquid POWER you can see yourself sending...feel the victory of clipping the chains...sense the eye of the tiger taking over. Then, when you start shaking from the anticipation and all that sugar and caffeine, then, only then, you know its GO time. Take a deep breath. Check your knot four times. Spit on your shoes and clean down to the rand. Have your blackberry opened up to 8a.nu... and then BLIGITY Skigdang! Good luck.

I'm of the opinion that grades are not harder for trad or sport. The difficulty seems to be about the same regardless. Also, I don't think the older trad routes are really that much more difficult than newer sport climbs (like the phoenix in yos or the pyromania route in the needles arn't any different than climbing 13a sport routes in wa). Grading vicissitudes seem more apparent to me depending on the area, not the genre. If a climber has mastered all the skills and genres of rock climbing, grades will tend to stabilize. If all one does is climb 99% at little si (having never spent time on granite) and then goes for a jaunt to Index, odds are that that person will get completely owned at Index. Though, I would say the same of a climber who climbs at Index (never having climbed anything steep) and then goes to an area where you actually have to hang on with your forearms (like little si). That person would probably be equally owned; but of course for different reasons. My 2 cents.

yes, it seems that 95% of the 11d's get the same treatment.

Rubbish for the most part. This is definitely the last time I recommend someone post on this forum. Ben Gilkison

Really now... nobody wants to go sport climbing in this weather!? amazing.

Anyone want to crank out some sport routes at Little Si? Looks like I have the whole day off but no partner. Send PM if interested. Ben