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bigwallben

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Everything posted by bigwallben

  1. Did it back in 05' or 06' with rock wizard Drew Philbin. Borrowed Rudy's Valley Giant Cam and clipped the one bolt mid pitch. BD # 6 only worked in a tipped out position for the first 20ft of the pipeline pitch, and then was worthless... I'm sure one could use Big-bros if you're into that sort of thing. Earlier in the morning we did "Dancing in the Light" on the Apron as I recall; which provided a stark contrast of climbing styles to pipeline.. It can't be that bad since I suck at offwidths. Good luck. Oh, and having a shoe size bigger than mens 6 would help, alot.
  2. opinions and motivations are a dime a dozen. one man's pile is another mans paradise. thanks for chiming in boadman.
  3. Looking a sport partner for WW2 tuesday. Cliff faces sunshine.
  4. To remember how to stand on my feet.
  5. I find that tube socks and high tops work well, and 18 layers of poly pro.
  6. Can't say I've done it or tried it. Though, years ago after climbing the traditional swim and rapping to the base, Drew gave it a spirited onsight and came off near the end. It was an impressive show. It seemed to me like there was potential for a free variation just before the bolt ladder to the right. Not sure though; something in my memory of a small right facing corner to roof. Actually, I think it has been done on aid. Get er' done Mike. Venga.
  7. Climbed there a month ago. Interesting pumpy climbing. Wish I could go but my knees out. Have fun!
  8. Good question, I will ask my wife but I believe King County Department of Transportation built the parking lot for Little Si. Not sure if that means KC owns it. State DNR owns the Little Si parking lot. Yes, was there today and signs were up and many people had to run in to town to Ace hardware because you can't buy the pass anywhere near the parking area. Ladies and gentlemen, It's time to ride bicycles! No car license, no pass required.
  9. Would this include the Little Si trailhead?
  10. Aren't you suppose to be playing with electricity? And, are you referring to Reptiles or Jug or not?
  11. Eric, Franks in Montana for a couple months. I've got other projects on my radar right now, but I'm more than willing to clarify anything if the approach sounds confusing. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to follow our original route to a t, but upon reaching the ridge where the flagging starts it becomes quite clear. I'd recommend a machete, clippers, more flagging, and a change of clothes. Have fun!! Ben
  12. Has anyone here climbed Bad Animal? That one looked particularly good.
  13. Four years ago I went out to attempt climbing at the NF crag with my buddy Patrick. Following the road mileage dictated in Smoot's directions (15 miles) we arrived in a massive clearcut with no sign of former markings for the original trail. But, based on our position we knew that the beaver pond was near at hand. Crossing the clearcut in a Northerly fashion we descended slightly and made out the beaver pond. From there we traversed the clearcut West to the point where we ran into the old trail, which was in relatively good shape. It in turn took us down to the Western end of the pond. Across from the outlet to the pond the climbers trail turns left (NW) but an old logging path lead on wards (easterly; upstream). After continuing down the logging path we backtracked, took the other fork, and found ourselves at the main crossing of the NF of Snoqualmie. Bravely, we waded the frigid waters in flippy flops. Dead end: to our chagrin we scouted up and down the river looking for the faintest thread of a trail. There was none to be found. It had been swallowed in Devil's club and other spikey types of flora. In total, we spent 4.5 hours, but in the end went to little si. From our position across the river we could see the NF crag sitting aways upstream in a NE direction, taunting us. Yesterday I went out with Frank to try another approach... we kept driving past the 15 mile mark and shortly after crossed two different bridges taking us over to the North side of the Snoqualmie. After scouting entry points along the road we dove into the underbrush. For 2.5 hours we battled our way downstream, keeping the river within ear shot. Time upon time we would run into small meandering footpaths either made by animals or hunters. 30 minutes in, we came across some really impressive old growth trees. There were also old sections of logging roads that provided reprieve from the mundane task of crawling over and down trees and clawing through underbrush. At the halfway point the ridge makes a small promontory close to the river and forces one up an obvious path; if you get to this point you will pick up the path that we flagged on our way back. Flagging is somewhere in the neighborhood of every 45 feet and vaguely follows an old logging rd which crosses a small drainage before angling slowly up to the crag. Back to the story... when hope receded to the slightest glimmer, we ran into the old trail (which we hit perpendicular). Ten minutes later we were exploring this long forgotten crag. The old base in the Cave is now a Jungle, the firepit it gonzo, and the routes were seeping pretty good. The 11a's on the right looked climbable. The 12's on the far left down and below the Deep end were a bit grown and wet. But, fortunately, the routes from the Goods to the Deep end looked pretty dry. After refueling and donning a change of clothes I managed a 2nd try ascent of The Deep End. Climbing off the airy belay ledge was a little nerve wracking. The bolts looked ok and the draws were hanging... but, there is something a little spooky about climbing on that overhanging fractured metamorphic stuff knowing that years have gone by since it had seen action. Unfortunately, Frank's wrist was bugging him and he opted to forgo any climbing. With a bit of work I think this new approach could be done in 40 minutes. Yeah, there isn't that much climbing up there. But, the few good routes make it worth it in my opinion. The Route Bad Animal looked awesome. Sorry if this point was a bit rambly. Recommendations: get an early start, where long pants, bring poles, a machete, deet, boots, long sleeve shirt, and be patient. Eventually, you too will make it!
  14. Ok, now that we're all properly baited...please elaborate.
  15. Does anyone know whether a 60m rope would suffice on the longest of routes at North Fork? Cheers, Ben
  16. I've called the North Bend Ranger station and confirmed that the North Fork County Rd is open the entire stretch. So, North Fork Crag is a go!! Perhaps we could make a new trail?? Frank, are you in? After flagging it, perhaps we could get a posse to stomp it in proper. I'm also guessing that any draws or webbing type gear is probably in need of replacement. Ben
  17. Actually, by utilizing said credit card, you may be accruing cartilaginous debt; which no doubt, your body will demand repayment for later in life. Keep yourself pliant by...(and this only applies to those bonafide shorties...sub 5'2; sorry Rudy) From abo Jug lock off and high step triangular chip right foot, right hand gaston small pinch (doesn't look like hold), left foot up in crack to left, now cross left hand up to crimp (which most 'average' height people have already grabbed with right hand from abo jug), now right hand out right to smaller crimp, left hand flip into sidepull, shuffle feet high (on abo jug) bring right hand to match just above left which is still in sidepull, reach up and left to next sidepull, now left foot real high up and left to an obvious slabby foot hold, now bump up left foot to nasty little toothy rubber smeared crimp, right hand up and right, right foot up high (near waist), left leg flag (to right), left hand up and left to jug gaston, now clip. Don't you just hate run on sentences? Of course, this entire sequence brings the grade down from v5 to v2. Good luck! And just remember that 5' 8" is average. And, short is relative. ... oh that's hilarious...that's drew's exact beta and he stands a whopping 4'-4" tall!!! hahahaha I'm closer to Drew's height than to 5'9". So, this makes perfect sense.
  18. I'm frankly flattered Thanks to all who have found time to check out our travels. BTW: it is sunny and looking real nice in Chattanooga! T wall?
  19. Oops, hope I didn't blow your onsight. Sincerely, Ben
  20. Actually, by utilizing said credit card, you may be accruing cartilaginous debt; which no doubt, your body will demand repayment for later in life. Keep yourself pliant by...(and this only applies to those bonafide shorties...sub 5'2; sorry Rudy) From abo Jug lock off and high step triangular chip right foot, right hand gaston small pinch (doesn't look like hold), left foot up in crack to left, now cross left hand up to crimp (which most 'average' height people have already grabbed with right hand from abo jug), now right hand out right to smaller crimp, left hand flip into sidepull, shuffle feet high (on abo jug) bring right hand to match just above left which is still in sidepull, reach up and left to next sidepull, now left foot real high up and left to an obvious slabby foot hold, now bump up left foot to nasty little toothy rubber smeared crimp, right hand up and right, right foot up high (near waist), left leg flag (to right), left hand up and left to jug gaston, now clip. Don't you just hate run on sentences? Of course, this entire sequence brings the grade down from v5 to v2. Good luck! And just remember that 5' 8" is average. And, short is relative.
  21. Rad, Well, the weather hasn't been so rad lately here in Tennessee. But, sunshine is on the horizon and the troops have raised their chins a degree or two. Please knock yourself out, www.bengilkison.blogspot.com
  22. Frank, I look forward to youtube video. Ben
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