bigwallben

how was the river crossing?

Jens, Just made a pair with much success! I used contact cement (one whole bottle for 2 pads). I think the trick is getting enough cement on both surfaces. The neoprene is rather porous. So, I would start out by applying liberally to the pad. Wait ten minutes. Apply lots of cement to both surfaces where it counts. Wait ten minutes. Carefully line up pad and rubber. Place rubber on pad. Now, drive car onto pad and leave for four or five hours. Remove car. Now you are ready to send! Oh wait. Before sending: save legs, spray on glue, and pull on pad with much effort.

-ankles away... (11c/d) -wailing banshees..(11a/b) -love potion #9 (10) -White punks on Dope (8+) say hello to the yellowjackets for me.

Thanks for posting. Nice to see some granite.

Redpointed all three of these climbs a couple years back. Big Daddy involved an easy 10- slab traverse (bolts), an awkwark boulder problem followed by barn doorish (albiet excellent) thin crack finale. BDO is not that much harder than Sentry Box and derserving more traffic. Zombie Roof: I would highly recommend taping up on this one. Actually, I would say taping is a given on most difficult roof cracks; unless you want to have only one go per month. On ZR there is a crux half way out the roof and also turning the lip. The other crux is just placing gear of course. Of the three you mentioned Tim, Flight of the Challenger is by far the best. This climb is just simply amazing. Best route at the pet wall...not sure, cause I have only climbed a few others. But, it is for sure the best hard crack there. The first forty feet are way steep crack and face climbing. The hardest crux comes after a jug stance where the angle becomes vertical. You can place some solid CU's and then bust the moves. Suppose I shouldn't elaborate on the somewhat hidden hold... but anyway, after that there is a very index reminiscent flaring corner with tips in the back. You don't really have to jam all that much. Mostly, just do the foot in the crack twist thing. The last difficult part comes at the end. Remember to bring a fist size piece...

I've heard of people finishing off the last few pitches of Millenium Falcon. I believe it checks in at 11- or something. Sorry to disuade you from attempting the dyke. Perhaps it isn't as bad as I remember. It was a long day for me at the time. Did freeway in the morning and then Grandwall through upper black dyke later that day. One other thing I recall is that it is quite difficult at times to find the bolts on the route. Good luck!

Coming soon: Cruel Shoes, the Grand Wall, and the Black Dyke! I would highly advise against the latter variation. Serious Choss. Of the four pitches that lead off of bellygood the only one of quality is the one that doesn't climb the dyke.

Here are some pictures of my friend Drew Philbin working out the moves on Never Never last fall. The crux occurs in the first fifteen feet...but the last part is no picnic.

i don't know if it was the second ascent, but i rp'd the thing a couple of years ago. i'd say 13a? pretty hard rig man, congrats! Just so everyone knows...this 'slab master' is my boss. And although he has been on part of never never, he has certainly never rp'd it, though at times he comes out of the woodwork to run laps on chronic, when the little si-itus is upon him.

or better yet how about H. Herr's Ride Of the Valkyries--- or the unclimbed testpiece at Katrina Krag too bad midnight rock season is limited to a couple months a year. but yes, supercrack is definitely on my list! the ride of the valkyries is a roof crack right? by careno crag? and what is this katrina krag testpiece? thanks everyone for your encouraging posts! it is so nice to not be stuck in a climbing gym eh?

Sent Never Never crack this afternoon. Alot of work for such a short route, but approach notwithstanding...a better route than most people give credit.

I've never seen the mothaship at windex, but, skills were mentioned, not style; perhaps it was implied... He didn't solo anything while visiting Index.

He has climbed at Index.

Jens, it really isn't that big of a deal. I was down there for a couple weeks earlier in the month. At first I was aprehensive regarding the 'detour' through the Dalles; however, I took the highway (197 I believe) just south of the Dalles and still made it to the grasslands in 5 hours. Granted, that was from North Bend. Really wasn't that bad. And, driving the Eastside definitely beats that lovely I-5 section between Olympia and Portland.

UWall isn't soft.

Stoner's Highway.

a weenie that's brown on the end is not metaphorical, it's simply sexyyyyyyyyy. huh?

yes, what is up with the burn weenie. is this metaphorical?

ah yeahs busted!

so. fucking. busted! busted dude. sir william is pissed.

so what is this all about? and shouldn't you be out training....

Ok, I'll sell this ledge for $500. It is brand new.

Dave, that anchor was completely bogus. This wasn't an issue of trying to make the washington all arounder climb "harder". It was simply extra hardware that was didn't need to be there. I believe the remover of those anchors didn't fill in his holes though, which is the only negative thing I can see in this situation. I predict this thread will reach epic size. Too bad.

That is funny. I lived in Mammoth 2001 and climbed with Taka at the ORG. He was a great guy. Not sure where he is at now.

Thanks for the responses guys. I tried this thing one snowy day six or seven years ago back when I didn't have any biz being on it. But a couple weeks ago I walked to the base and rekindled some interest. It will be interesting to see what the difficulty is. The Jeff's article definitely makes it sound like Todd sandbagged this one. I know that he had some significantly harder climbs downrated around the time of the FFA and so the 12d grade might be in response. Anyhow, Todd was a friend and I am psyched to do some of his routes. He was truly the most motivated climber I have ever met.