W

I left the valley yesterday (wednesday) afternoon as the helicopter and SAR teams were conducting operations. They were hovering in front of the wall and communicating by bullhorn with parties on the wall. Dave Turner (or a rescuer?) was visible jugging lines to the rim as we were there. Apparently he is fine. Apparently several parties indicated a desire to keep climbing despite more rain in the forecast for the foreseeable future. I did not hear there were fatalities until today, but I must say I am not in the least bit surprised, especially if as reported the Japanese did not have a portaledge. Survival would have been impossible without it for so long. This storm was very intense. It began raining saturday night, poured sunday, abated somewhat on monday, but then all hell totally broke loose on Tuesday and it got much colder. Wednesday morning the temperature dropped about 10 degrees between 9AM and 10AM, snow began falling on the valley floor, and it snowed about 2-3 inches in less than 90 minutes. Although it's not unheard of for winter storms to hit in October, this one was quite strong for being so early and more like something you would see mid winter. There are reports of 4-5 feet of new snow above 6000 feet. 8 hikers still missing down south last I heard. FYI, those of you asking about Lambone; I met Matt several years ago briefly, although I can't say I remember his face exactly, I am quite sure that I saw him sitting in the Lodge cafeteria yesterday morning. I am also quite sure I didn't see anyone on the NA Wall yesterday.

Matt, It's the most popular and obvious, but might as well go hit the Torres del Paine Circuit. You won't be disappointed. If it's still too snowy or you're not up to the high winds and such, there are infinite shorter hike possibilities in the park. Check out the Valley of Silence, and definitely hike up to Glacier Grey and to the Torres del Paine lookout. But the whole circuit is awesome and not to be missed if you can manage it. It will take you anywhere from 3-5 days. Allow a full week for weather days and for taking side trips to the various valleys along the way. You can get great maps of the park in Punta Arenas and in Puerto Natales, where you will have to bus (3 hrs) to get to Paine. There are a couple of sea kayaking outfits in Punta Arenas, but I didn't check them out. Puerto Natales might be a little better for kayaking. Also, if the penguins have returned, go check out the Penguin Colony near Punta Arenas. Cool way to spend a day. Keep your rain and wind gear handy at all times. Have fun- but then, it is impossible not to in Patagonia.

I believe Jim Wickwire did a trip there with Charlie Porter a number of years ago, there is a limited bit of information in Wickwire's autobiography. Might at least find the year and then perhaps it will be in the corresponding AAJ.

1999: It was climbed by Brits Dave Wills and Dan Donovan. My partner and I met them on the summit plateau, and descended the Ramen Couloir, on their advice of it being a fast way off, as a storm was fast approaching. The descent was quick, safe, and straightforward, but this was a cold evening in late April, and I would think that after mid May- or anytime it is warm- the couloir will be too dangerous. It's about 3500 feet of 40-60 degree terrain. In June the couloir is mostly rock and is scoured by avalanches and rockfall. The descent from the basin below involves traversing and descending a whole lot of south facing terrain below rockfall couloirs, to avoid a horrendous icefall in the lower glacier. I have since heard fairly viable rumors that this couloir was climbed 15-20 years ago. I wouldn't be surprised if this is true.

I have a question: Has the road that is used to access Green Giant Buttress deteriorated much in the past four years? I was last there in 1999; about that time there was a small uproar about the USFS intention to abandon the road. Basically, I'd like to know if driving to the old pullout is still a go for a low clearance vehicle. Thanks in advance.

Ditto on Wallstein's report on the Middle Cathedral descent gully. I went down it twice last fall, there is some loose rock but just keep together with your partner and be aware if anyone is coming down above you. The rappel anchors are fine.

Re: Third pitch pucker section. Yes, the death block...A good bit of advice for anyone, if it's not already obvious when you get there, is to not use cams in that thing. It's a bathtub sized block that is hanging from beneath a small overhang, kinda stuffed up inside the roof. Not sure what is holding it in place. I didn't want to find out either. Doesn't seem expando but it pretty spooky and looks like a time bomb. I remember a nice #7 or #8 offset nut getting me past it, but I also remember thinking that the day this thing decides to pull, there will be carnage for sure. Pitch one of GD is pretty straightforward, although I found that while soloing it, getting out of my aiders for the dirty free climbing section to the anchor had my full attention, since I was using a grigri and had to feed the slack in advance. I have to agree, the start of the fourth pitch is pretty cool. Nice work.

I have several friends who've been there. There's plenty of new line potential. The good rock is there if you look for it but there is also a fair deal of loose rock as well. The flights to get you there are not cheap, and still leave you with a long walk in and out. Based on their slides they showed me,it looks well worth it, a real adventure. I wish I could remember more, but both groups didn't get a lot of climbing in due to weather and the approach/exit eating up their time. One group did cover a lot of ground though and got a few ideas for a return trip. Two things that would be good to have- this coming from hardcore Alaskans: Bug dope and a .44

Jedi, check your pm's.

Most of the classics have good bolts and chains.

I haven't seen anyone mention p1 of The Zipper. Stemming up an overhanging finger crack, then a thin crack up a slab with interesting features. 10a/b-ish and real nice. p2 is a nice aid pitch through a huge roof ("ice cream scoop roof") if you like aid.

daylward turned me on to Vinylove's- these things are available at Outdoor Emporium near Lincoln Towing and REI. $3.99. If you put a pair of lightweight fleece gloves under them you have a great setup- that works. They also make them in a version that has a furry liner built in- these are about $13. My partner uses those and loves them. Save your money! Vinylove is the secret weapon.

Welcome back, RURP. We thought you and shlangeshlopper had eloped.

Griff, There's a guy named Ed Hommer who climbed Denali a few years back, and tried Everest this year. He lost both his lower legs (not sure if he has his knees- I think he may) after crashing a plane in the Alaska Range in December 1981 and got horrible frostbite. Anyway, you might call the Denali Park Service and find out how you might get hold of Mr. Hommer. (907) 733-2231. There are two local climbers in Talkeetna named Brian McCullough and Karl Swanson who helped him on the Denali and Everest climbs and on another attempt they made on the Moose's Tooth. They would definitely know how to contact him. Hommer is an American Eagle pilot and lives in Minnesota...he has these super high tech prosthetic legs that got designed for him by NASA from carbon fiber- in any case I am sure he would have some helpful info for you on the best prosthetic options for you as well as information and inspiration for getting you back up in the mountains. Best of luck to you and keep at it!

quote: Originally posted by jja: carl's berg - looked real thin and chandeliered but was climbed on Saturday by Tony and Mike from seattle (broke a pick on lead). It was Tom and Mark, not Tony and Mike Who says Cobra Picks don't break? The climb was good in the morning, but was getting wet as we departed. Plenty thick enough, with good ice and features. quote: Originally posted by jja: icy bc - sounded like a freight train with all the water running behind it, through it, and on top of it. Didn't stop Tony and Mike from leading it though. - john & wayne A wetsuit would have been more appropriate clothing. Mostly the water was on the surface, but it was a huge amount. Call it good adversity training! This climb was as fat and well formed as I've seen it all year, however...for all of Lillooet, the weather now is so warm, the sun so intense, and there is so much running water I don't give it long before things start collapsing. In fact the only thing that made this weekend doable was that friday was the first above freezing weather in 10 days. I think this might be the curtain call...but then, I've said that before. [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: W ] [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: W ]

I free soloed the Northeast Buttress route on Tiger Mtn. I think it was also a first winter ascent, free free ascent, and first free winter ascent.

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: W- Today is actually my last day and yesterday was my first. I can return to this job at anytime due to the fact that my dad is the pres/owner of the company. I actually head for yosemite on Tuesday. I just thought I would start a disscusion about work so I didn't have to work. Well shit, Wallstein, and here I revealed all all my tricks of the trade just for you.Oh, and take this, Allison:

wallstein I thought you were guiding in the valley? how'd you end up in cube-ville? Not to pile on your pain, but my big life of leisure begins two weeks from today. Should last at least 10-12 months. more, if I get lucky/creative making money in between trips.But i set a record this winter- I worked for five months straight! yes, that's right, five. haven't matched/bested that since 97/98. This time has been hell compared to past stints of work, for a bunch of reasons- mostly because I was ready to leave about 8 weeks ago. My suggestion is to keep your work assignments short- three months or less. You can mentally justify doing tons of overtime because the end is within reach, and you make more money that way too. While in the office-work frenetically for two or three hours, then fuck off for a whole hour: draw topos, surf the net, do some freewriting, dream of big routes, make phone calls, listen to cds on your headphones. Not that I do any of that All the while look busy. You will then be productive and so won't arouse suspicion, but be able to spend some of the day in la la land, bridging the gap between today and tomorrow. Early on in a work period, I like to take some time off climbing entirely and focus on other things, clear my mind. then in the middle, start getting out every weekend, even if it's running up the nearby conditioning trail in a downpour.Rent basements, crash with parents, do anything you can to avoid leases.And finally- just remember you're a free agent. Accept nothing less than your bottom line. If it's not fun, there's always another choice, if you're open to it.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Watch out for massive dear if you head over Lassen.. what's a "massive dear"? is that when your wife becomes overweight?

quote: Originally posted by Norman Clyde: W, it pains me deeply but I feel I have a duty to inform you: it's spelled grammar , not grammer .

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: BUT, the pints are not as cheap as at the Park Pub... (unless they've got a Tuesday night special that I don't know about) pints?! we want pitchers!

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: um W I was joking. As I said I'm down with the north end. The Park is good... now now...I'm just joshing around K.

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Ok you've got me. All I want to do is drink at a big franchise bar who's theme is boobs. well...yeah. that's what Hooters is, right? Try to keep up with the pace of the conversation, okay. At least you admitted it. But sorry, the club will not convene there. You're on your own.Maybe you can meet Sparky there?

c'mon, AlpineK, just say it- we know you want it to be at Hooters.

Yes, and I too join the ranks of those displeased with the poor grammer found upon this website. There are some who are seemingly unaware that a preposition is something one should never end a sentence with.