jshamster

Considering I work for West Marine, I have thought about doing this. Guess I'll just have to go press a few a do some product testing. Oly, I have heard rumours of the route next to Green Drag-On being done in the last six months or so. All heads and hooking? or something. Jimbo

Does MEC, Valhalla or Climb On sell copperheads? Alternatively, any aid climbers have extra they want to unload? Cheers. Jimbo

PETEY-ML-589351-ML- moved to Rockclimbing Forum because this thread is not a BC/Canada Trip Report

To all interested parties that won't/can't go look for themselves. I spent yesterday in the Torment/Boston basins basically just solo rambling. Did half of ridge between Torment/Forbidden, and a bunch of exploring. Then current conditions are great. There is still a good amount of snow everywhere, making access up the Unnamed Glacier very easy. The approach couloir to W. Ridge Forbidden is getting some holes in it, but should be fine early in the morning. Little bit of snow on W. Ridge, but easily bypassed. I didn't climb the first half of Torment/Forbidden travers, but looking back at the snowfields the look STEEP! The hot weather will hopefully kick of one more good slide back there. Have fun out there. Jimbo

Don't listen to these naysayers. I've done Dreamer in snow & in 90 degree temps. All good all the time! Have fun. (Sorry, I can't go. Putting the wakeboard boat in the water!)

The FF Hummingbird . Hands down, the best bag I've ever owned.

Yo Erik. I'd be down with a combo Smith/Bachy trip around that time. I've got a buddy in Bend for crashin' at. I'll be back in the 'Ham in the next couple of days. Let's get a beer.

Just got back from Indian Creek this morning. Holy crap that place is good. Chill vibe, the nicest people of any climbing area I've been to, and SPLITTER!!!!! Weather is cool in the evening, but sending temps during the day. All only a twenty hour drive away!

I stood on two, aiding at Index, yesterday. Sometimes nothing else works.

Reversino seems the way to go, but for now I throw another 'biner into my Reverso. Seems to slow it down enough for my taste. Basically, without the proper friction, the Beal's are scary as hell to rap on.

Beal Ice Line is the shiznit. No others compare. Mammut .

Yeah Matt. You got #420!!

I tried out a couple of years ago, and it's exactly as danielpatricksmith describes. I totally disagree with fidosbitch, as it seemed that not only personality/communication counted for a lot, but that who you knew & how many times you've tried out seemed to make a big difference. It's part skills and part popularity contest. I second the opinion of others that either AAI or another guiding company would be a much better experience that RMI.

Nice guys! We saw y'all bailing from your 9/17 attempt when we came up to fix a pitch of LC that evening. Good to hear ya gettin' back on it. I second Index for aid. First three pitches of Dana's Arch are great!

Yeah, some flagging could be good, but ya gotta earn the Green Creek cirque. Having flirted a bit with the route Blake took, and taking pretty much Darin's route exactly, I think staying above Green Creek & crossing closer to the talus is much easier. Getting back has seemed to be a crap shoot both times I've been out there. Bottom line is that it is really easy to get out there if you can just maintain the schwack. It's short. Nice job guys. I was definately eyeing that line.

I have used one on a sailboat. Worked great. Alcohol from West Marine in quarts or gallons.

South Ridge of Black is the descent route for NE ridge. IMO it would not be that fun of an ascent, especially being completely melted out. NE Ridge is very easy, with only short steps of low 5th. Highly recommended. Have fun.

Nice job. The altitude can be a bummer going that high that fast. I spent the night on the summit a few days later & it was perfect weather. Ended up acclimatizing for 2 days prior at Camp Schurman. We spent the night on the West crater rim & ended up right on top of a steam vent in the dirt. Warmest bivy I've had all summer! Explored the caves all day the next day & headed down around 3:30pm. Well worth it to spend the night on top! Props to both y'all!

Word! Got mine in the mail a couple days ago.

Spoke to Glacier Park Warden this morining. Sir Donald trail is open. Bears have moved along.

SUFFER!!!

Nice work gents!

Climb: B'ham Big Wall-Mythic Wall Date of Climb: 8/12/2005 Trip Report: Intrigued by Darin & Mike's new climb near the Twin Sisters, Tyree & I schwacked up to the Mythic Wall to see what all the hype was about. Well, let me tell you, it's the goods! We climbed the route is five pitches, if you count the very short 5.4 as a pitch. The grades given by Darin are right on. Route finding is really basic. If you don't want to down climb the Green Creek Arete, it is very easy to drop down into the gully opposite the climb and rally round the toe of the buttress back to any gear left on the ground. GO DO IT!!! Thanks for the great addition to the climbs of the North Cascades Darin & Mike! Gear Notes: Full rack of aliens HB offset nuts Camalots from .5 to 3 few Metolius cams to round out the bigger sizes No 3.5 needed (we didn't take) Approach Notes: Easy trail to hour schwack to massive freaking talus field 3 hrs in 2.5 hrs out

Aw Yeah! Quality all the way! Great trip, with a great partner.

It was cool seeing where you guys were and remembering it from last year.