freeclimb9

Any technophiles out there? I've been tracking a couple expeditions this Spring through their online dispatches. (For example, Ed Viesturs at Annapurna http://www.edviesturs.com/dispatches and a couple hauling to the North Pole http://www.thepoles.com). It seems that they call in their reports which are transcibed and put online. They also send images. I'm curious as to how this is currently done. Who are the main satellite phone carriers? How much does a phone weigh and cost? How much do minutes cost? Is it possible to attach a palmtop and send and receive text on a faster timescale than voice? How are images sent (via FTP?)? What about sending video?

quote: Originally posted by Jarred Jackman: Has anyone made their own pack? I've sewn a few. One has been my crag pack since '90. They're more durable than storebought since I used a heavier thread, 1000 denier nylon cordura, and sewed each seam at least twice (just simple seams). They're custom sized to my specs, and very comfortable. I knocked-off the pattern from a prototype made by a former employee of Gregory (a pattern maker). I still feel the waistbelt is a better design than anything on the market, but the commercial designs are coming along. Padding is extraneous in the hipbelt, IMO, but the pattern is crucial. For dimensions, it's pretty easy to measure commercial packs, then cut your own pattern. Also, has anyone done seam-taping at home? The sewing is the easy part but getting the waterproofing back on, I'm not too sure about. I am confused as to what you mean by "seam-taping". If you're thinking about the heat-sealed seam tape that comes in some shell garments, you won't have the specialized equipment for that. Few packs are actually waterproof anyways. And there's always liquid seam sealer. Materials (cordura, webbing, hardware, thread) can be purchased in small quantities --by the 1/4 yard at some places-- from several suppliers (eg. http://www.thru-hiker.com http://www.seattlefabrics.com/ etc.) and are the real deal. Use nylon thread. Gudebrod is the best, and can be found also at fly-tieing shops. If I were to sew another pack today, I'd probably use Spectra gridstop for most of the body to save weight. You might actually find a pattern online. The ultralight backpacking crowd are way into making their own gear, and share patterns freely. good luck

happens every year.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: What are your plans in the winds? and in the tetons? I'd like to cruise the highline trail in a day, or two (Big Sandy opening to Green River Lakes). But, going from south pass to green river lakes (or further to togwotee pass) touching on the Fremont trail with side trips and variations (maybe through the Ciruque and over Lizard's head, or over Gannett, for example) would be worthy --albeit a different kind of- trip. My dream Winds trip would be a week, or two, based in Titcomb basin. For the Tetons, I've got a long list of route objectives. For traverses, I'd like to do the Cathedral traverse, the ice-palace traverse (my own coinage. Northeast snowfields of Owen to Black Ice --maybe into West Face-- on the Grand to the Northwest couloir on Middle, and maybe the Grand Traverse. Any of the three is ambitious. For the Sierras, a 5-6 day cruise on the Muir trail would be compelling. But there are climbing traverses that would be great, too. I only live a few hours drive from Big Sandy opening, or Jackson Hole.

Check out the consequence of prolonged sleep deprivation: "Prolonged sleeplessness weakens immune function. Animals tortured in sleep-deprivation experiments eventually die from massive bacterial infections of the blood..." And I thought the hallucinations were bad enough. I've got some Teton traverse goals for the summer. And in the Winds. And in the Sierras. Anyone up for torture and risk of blood infection?

If you're going to place a bolt, if possible, use a 5-piece one. A 5-piece bolt is easier to remove with much less damage to the rock (essentially none save for the hole --removal may be warranted due to age also.

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: It's not every day that you can pull on grafittied, bucketted, vertical choss in the sunshine while clipping three bolts from the same stance and have relative solitude. Try the basalt crags in Twin Falls, Idaho. "every day".

I don't know who the intended consumer would be for the roll-top pack, but it would be great to have one for serious canyoneering and caving.

Peter Puget, you're coming from such a foreign paradigm, I can't relate at all. But thanks for the definition of edify. And to think that I had equated "enlighten" with "To instruct and improve esp. in moral and religious knowledge." I think I'll have to get another edition of Webster's dictionary because the one I got has "edify" and "enlighten" as synonyms.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: There is simply nothing edifying inherent in a particular style of climbing. Whoa. So, in your mind, a rap-bolted ascent is no more noteworthy than a ground-up ascent? Do you extend this to a free ascent being no more noteworthy than an aid ascent of the same climb? Have you actually been on the sharp-end on a ground-up ascent? You might find it VERY enlightening (i.e. edifying). I think that there absolutely is a difference between ascent styles --inherently. Our sport glorifies style, and many pursue a (subjectively) pure one when they climb.

Just read an article on Provigil. Could be a nice addition to the med-kit.

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Earplugs...how the hell do your hear your alarm? They don't screen out all noise, nor do they screen all frequencies equally. I hear the alarm on my wristwatch, no problem.

Erik, I wasn't talking about fuzzy bunny slippers and a lava lamp. Just stuff that folks may carry that they consider useful and that others might not have thought of. Like earplugs. They're awesome. At the beginning of a river trip years ago in Moab I awoke in the morning to find all my co-trippers red-eyed and in foul moods. Seems a party of Germans kept them awake all night. I had slept through all the singing. Worth carrying that 0.025 ounces of foam, IMHO. And I carry goggles into the hills because I find graupel bouncing off my corneas to be painful. And on a Wind River trip I threw in some foam moleskin bullshit from Albertsons that saved the trip when my buddy and I both got raw heals after a few days of climbing and hiking. Turned out it was much better than felt moleskin, but I haven't found it again at the supermarket. And then there's the seemingly superfulous stuff that turns out to not be. For instance, on a long ago expedition, I shook my head when one guy bought a handful of trash novels at the airport. But those same novels became a godsend when stormbound for two weeks. And now I can converse knowledgebly about the writings of Elmore Leonard. Who'd have thunk it?

Booze and reefer are the only things people take to make trips more enjoyable?

With the advent of newer ice-axe designs, choosing one has become a compromise proposition. And one influenced by personal preference. But here are some biased generalities: curved shaft tools are great for ice- and rockandice- only climbs. Really great for vertical ice since the wrist isn't cocked at a weird angle. Not so great if you need to plunge the shaft in sintered snow. Some will do the plunging job okay, but all are more exhausting than straight shaft tools if you need to climb that way for 100s (let alone 1000s) of feet. straight shaft tools, IMO, are true workhorses. They do everything adequately, or better. I use straight shaft tools because I like their simplicity and how they work --meat and potatoes climbing. I use them on vertical ice, and that gives me more confidence when using them on less steep terrain. I've got X-15s and Black Prophets. My only minor gripe is that the pick end extends above the head (by design so that it can be hammered further into ice), and wears my palm when using the tool as a cane for hours on end. Manufacturers whose ice-axes I admire for quality and workmanship include BD, DMM (the Fly is a great alpine climbing tool), Grivel, and Charlet-Moser (always an innovator. Their Quark is one of the best tools out there). Gear demos occur around the country during the winter, and give climbers the chance to try out stuff for free. Some shops have rentals that you can check out (discuss with them recouping the rental fee as a price reduction when you purchase your choice).

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ya just like the Alberta ranchers when you tell em you are working to increase the range and habitat of wolves, prairie dogs, hawks and cougars. QB] Probably very similar. I don't argue with farmers about farming, and I don't tell 'em what political party I belong to. quote: Aren't those American cotton growers getting sued for reparations by descendants of slaves now too? [/QB]California was part of the Union. The furthest west battle occurred at Picacho peak in Arizona. Reparation tactics being used these days are in the form of tax credits. I think about a 1/4 million people claimed it last year.

Dru, Lady bugs to the rescue? You are naive. For starters, Lady bugs prefer temperatures of around 70 farhenheit which doesn't happen too often in the the valley during summer growing season. I'm of the third generation of our family born in the San Joaquin Valley, Kern County. Our family still owns the homestead farm of my great-grandfather near the Tule Elk reserve. I don't think you'll school me on the problems of the central valley. If you want to see grown men become catatonic with fury, make your organic cotton proposal at a valley gin co-op.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: Yvon Chouinard . . . has managed to build an innovative and socially responsible (organic cotton, recycled fibers, environmental support, etc.) company while staying true to his dirtbag nature. That's a matter personal opinion. According to the ActivistCash.com website, the Patagonia Fund's largest cash recipient in 2000 was the Ruckus Society ($30,000). I don't consider monkey-wrenching and tree-spiking "socially responsible." I'm sympathetic with many of the Ruckus Society's goals, but abhor their means. President of the Patagonia Fund: Yvon Chouinard. A poser of a different kind. BTW, "organic cotton" threatens the multi-billion dollar a year agri-business industry of the San Joaquin valley with weevil infestation. I don't buy Patagonia goods.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Im gonna borrow a HILTI TE-10 and go to town! Bzzp bzzp chukka-chukka-chukka - bRRRRRRRRRPPPP! Looks like the pro on this 25 meter route will be 3-4 bolts and 1 cam placement (to keep sport climbers off it). Having the first pro require gear is even better than putting the first bolt high to keep unwanted crowds away. In my experience, if further on the route there's a need for placing pro, someone will get suckered into climbing up with only quickdraws. Subsequent bitching and moaning will create a reputation that will keep other sport-only climbers away. Probably even raise their ire. Or, runouts work similarly. BTW, crowbars aren't the best way to pull bolts. Using wedges like lost arrows with a notch cut out of the tip for the bolt to fit within generates much more force. A 3/8" wedge type bolt (a 5-piece can just be unscrewed and the components within the hole fished out with a coat hanger wire) has a pull-out strength of over 6,000lbs. I've straightened a 3' crowbar trying to remove a 3/8" Rawl Drive abortion that I placed. Worse case scenario, use a small metal drill bit to drill out the bolt. Be aware, though. Placing and removing bolts damages rock. No one wins a bolt war.

stupid jokes suck worse......... no more negativity towards women with the jokes.... [ 04-17-2002, 08:25 AM: Message edited by: erik ]

Chill out with this story about Chili: Notes from an inexperienced chili taster named Frank, who was visiting Texas from Boston: Recently I was honored to be selected as a judge at a chili cook-off. The original person called in sick at the last moment, and I happened to be standing at the judge's table (asking directions to the beer wagon) when the call came. I was assured by the other two judges (native Texans) that the chili wouldn't be all that spicy, and besides, they told me, I could have free beer during the tasting, so I accepted. Here are the scorecards from the event: Chili # 1: Mike's Maniac Mobster Monster Chili JUDGE ONE: A little too heavy on tomato. Amusing kick. JUDGE TWO: Nice, smooth tomato flavor. Very mild. FRANK: Holy #####, what the hell is this stuff? You could remove dried paint from your driveway. Took me two beers to put the flames out. I hope that's the worst one. These Texans are crazy. Chili # 2: Arthur's Afterburner Chili JUDGE ONE: Smoky, with a hint of pork. Slight jalapeno tang. JUDGE TWO: Exciting BBQ flavor, needs more peppers to be taken seriously. FRANK: Keep this out of reach of children! I'm not sure what I am supposed to taste besides pain. I had to wave off two people who wanted to give me the Heimlich maneuver. They had to rush in more beer when they saw the look on my face. Chili # 3: Fred's Famous Burn Down the Barn Chili JUDGE ONE: Excellent firehouse chili! Great kick. Needs more beans. JUDGE TWO: A bean less chili, a bit salty, good use of red peppers. FRANK: Call the EPA, I've located a uranium spill. My nose feels like I have been snorting Drano. Everyone knows the routine by now, get me more beer before I ignite. Barmaid pounded me on the back; now my backbone is in the front part of my chest. I'm getting #####-faced from all the beer. Chili # 4: Bubba's Black Magic JUDGE ONE: Black bean chili with almost no spice. Disappointing. JUDGE TWO: Hint of lime in the black beans. Good side dish for fish or other mild foods, not much of a chili. FRANK: I felt something scraping across my tongue, but was unable to taste it, is it possible to burn out taste buds? Sally, the barmaid, was standing behind me with fresh refills; that 300 lb. bitch is starting to look HOT, just like this nuclear-waste I'm eating. Is chili an aphrodisiac? Chili # 5: Linda's Legal Lip Remover JUDGE ONE: Meaty, strong chili. Cayenne peppers freshly ground, adding considerable kick. Very impressive. JUDGE TWO: Chili using shredded beef; could use more tomato. Must admit the cayenne peppers make a strong statement. FRANK: My ears are ringing, sweat is pouring off my forehead, and I can no longer focus my eyes. I farted, and four people behind me needed paramedics. The contestant seemed offended when I told her that her chili had given me brain damage. Sally saved my tongue from bleeding by pouring beer directly on it from a pitcher. I wonder if I'm burning my lips off? It really pisses me off that the other judges asked me to stop screaming. Screw those rednecks! Chili # 6: Vera's Very Vegetarian Variety JUDGE ONE: Thin yet bold vegetarian variety chili. Good balance of spice and peppers. JUDGE TWO: The best yet. Aggressive use of peppers, onions, and garlic. Superb. FRANK: My intestines are now a straight pipe filled with gaseous, sulfuric inferno flames. I pooped myself when I farted, and I'm worried it will eat through the chair. No one seems inclined to stand behind me except that slut Sally; she must be kinkier than I thought. Can't feel my lips anymore. I need to wipe my butt with a snow cone! Chili # 7: Susan's Screaming Sensation Chili JUDGE ONE: A mediocre chili with too much reliance on canned peppers. JUDGE TWO: Ho Hum tastes as if the chef literally threw in a can of chili peppers at the last moment. I should note that I am worried about Judge # 3 - he appears to be in a bit of distress as he is cursing uncontrollably. FRANK: You could put a grenade in my mouth, pull the pin, and I wouldn't feel a damn thing. I've lost the sight in one eye, and the world sounds like it is made of rushing water. My shirt is covered with chili, which slid unnoticed out of my mouth. My pants are full of lava-like poop to match my damn shirt. At least during the autopsy they'll know what killed me. I've decided to stop breathing, it's too painful.

I guess I'm a gear weenie. I've got some stuff that I think is sweet, and that makes life a little easier without adding much weight to my pack. For example, I've come to carry earplugs --those cheap foam ones that you roll and insert-- on all trips. They pretty much guarantee a good night's sleep. A flapping tent, or someone's snoring are no problem. I've even used them on a boat delivery to keep from going deaf. MEC Schoeller gaiters. So nice in lots of different snow conditions for keeping shit out of my boots. They work for rocks and dirt, too. Now I want a similar pair for my running shoes. Handi-wipes from KFC. Silly, but quite nice to wipe the salt, dirt, and sunscreen off at the end of the day. Also provides "just showered freshness" after a growler. Jive-ass goggles. A local gear shop had these bogus snowboard googles for cheap (<$10) --they look like swim goggles. They suck for snowboarding, but are priceless in the mountains in high winds. Anybody else carry weird little things to make trips more enjoyable?

the bummer is that the server gets hacked a lot, so the website is often not working.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Also, I never hear anyone ever boasting about slab climbing Slab spray: I got the second ascent of Dancing in the Light at the Chief in '88. It's a wee bit runout. While we climbed, the first ascentionists waited, then queried us for our opinion back at the roadside. Their rappeling and scrubbing tactics had pissed some people off, apparently, and they wanted some positive re-enforcement, I think. We pointed out that there's potential for cratering into the forest if you fell on the first pitch. But the climbing was great. Has it been retro-bolted? At least the rack is light. A much more terrifying climb, though a couple grades easier, is Mouth to Perhaps on Glacier Point Apron. There's two consectutive 5.9 pitches up high that have a total of one piece of protection; One pitch has a 1/4" bolt, the next has nothing. No positive holds. Gulp. But my favorite slabbage is Wily Javelina in Mendoza Canyon west of Tucson. I had many adrenaline rushes putting that one up, and I'm proud that others enjoy the route. Is that enough spray?

The thinking on ANWR? http://www.salon.com/politics/comics/2002/04/13/caribou/index.html