freeclimb9

Why do dogs lick their ass? Because they know in five minutes they'll be licking your face.

A washing machine (front, or top loading) is far easier than handwashing a rope. A mesh bag (or just keeping it coiled --though loosely) will help minimize tangles. White Snow is a washing machine soap (not detergent) that is very mild. Dumping in a bit of fabric softner will boost suppleness.

I've used boots from La Sportiva (Makalu), Salomon (Guide 9), and Tecnica (Altitude Plus). All of these companies make fine products, and the boots I've had from them worked great for their intended purpose. The latest models from these companies that might suit your needs as "a great approach shoe" as well as a climbing performer in snow and ice are: La Sportiva Glacier, Makalu, or Trango Plus Salomon Pro Rock Tecnica Dunagiri Bio-Flex GTX Scarpa's Super Manta M4 might work well, too.

quote: Originally posted by PDXClimber:[QB] What would you have done in this situation? QB] Just enjoy the route. You were on a classic. Wasn't every pitch great? And the last one on the bullet-hard stone? Superb, no? Passing someone without their consent isn't really possible on Crimson Chrysalis. When in a similar circumstance, I'll just chat with the belayer and joke that they owe us beers. You might have asked about beginning the rap before them. Good humor can breed cooperation. On a route in southern AZ recently, we combined the rappel effort with another party and got everyone off the route very quickly (4 ropes, 5 people, 3 rappels in about 1/2 hour. The first one to rappel would carry a rope --or two-- and set the next rappel); This can work great on a descent with ledges. But that's not the case with Crimson Chrysalis.

quote: Originally posted by mikey: Isnt the raven 'glued' only to the shaft ? No. "Glue" is only used when composite materials are being used. The Raven's head and shaft are metal, and they're riveted together. The head-to-shaft connection is one that's been used for decades. BTW, the Raven has a better spike for plunging.

National Public Radio's "Living on Earth" show ran a piece this week on Rock Climbing Wrongs: http://www.loe.org/ETS/organizations.php3?orgid=33&action=printNewestContentItem&typeID=3&templateID=18&User_Session=360453e7e64199bb100187d02f5ea555#feature7 I was shocked, though I've perpetrated scores of first ascents, that some climbers would incinerate plant material in order to get higher. Seriously, I thought it sucked that the radio show gave voice to someone crying foul on climbers and suggesting we avoid first ascents, but did not give the parameters under which her research (and subsequent suggested climber guidelines) was conducted. Nor was the amount of affected rock given. Just what percent of the total area of the Niagara Escparment's cliffs have established climbs? I'm guessing a low percentage. The researcher looked at cliffs near Ontario on the Niagara Escarpment, and her webpage is here: http://www.uoguelph.ca/botany/cerg/michele.htm It sucks when climbers are portrayed as something other than stewards of our resources.

Have the second jumar with a pack, and then you won't need to spend the money on a haulbag. Besides, you can go lighter and faster climbing this way. I've even done this with a portaledge in the pack. It makes you hungry for the lead after thrashing through a chimney section.

As you wrote, it's all a compromise. I'm currently using a Kodak POS that uses Advantix film and has some exposure control. It's not all automatic. What I like about it is the small size (about 4.5 x 2.5 x 1.5"). It fits in a small bag that I can clip to my harness. It's inexpensive, too. I checked out the Minolta Maxxum 5, and though light for an SLR, it's still not especially small (5 x 3.42 x 2.38"). And doesn't the lens extend the depth more than 2.38? I've been scheming to get a Yashica T4 because it's small as well (4.6”W x 2.6”H x 1.6”D), and the photo quality --I presume-- is much better than the Advantix/Kodak combo. And the lack of exposure control is a huge downside for snowy areas. (BTW, there's a weatherproof one available.) So, I'm thinking there might be another point and shoot camera out there comparable in size to a box of cigarettes that allows some exposure control and takes high definition photos. Maybe even digital (though I'd want the thing to work in the cold). There's gotta be more options.

A double loop of Bluewater Titan 5.5mm cord tied with a triple fisherman's knot will extend the life of your Friends without much damage to your wallet. It will also be totally bomber. Putting the knots either side of the stem hole would be bulky. A single loop of the cord tied with a double fisherman would also work great. Keep the tails kinda long (around 3 inches).

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: My technical knowledge of these different chemical makeups of "sugar" is confusing to me. Can someone in layman terms define and differetiate what the significance to energy in humans each consists. Which provides energy and which takes more energy to breakdown. How does it realte to food groups and what is essentially good and bad? For climbers (an other athletes) what is the best way to think of these sugars in terms of consmuption in times of active and post active movement. The glycemic index (GI) of the sugars is more of a concern than the energy content of the individual sugars. Glucose, sucrose, and fructose are absorbed into the blood stream at different rates. If glucose is used as the standard at 100, sucrose is about 65 and pure fructose is 22 (high fructose corn syrup is a mix of sugars --about half fructose-- and has a GI of 50). Maltodextrin, which is a di-glucose, has a GI of 105. It's used in a lot of "energy" products because it's cheap and provides such a quick boost in blood sugar. The bummer with eating high GI foods is that blood sugar levels will spike, then drop below basal levels pretty fast (around 20 minutes for most people) causing the user to feel crummy. Combining the sugars with other nutrients will moderate this. (eg. Proteins are utilized as energy about 3 to 4 hours after eating, so combining sugars with protein will help avoid spiking and crashing. Fats slow absorption. I won't even get into motility issues). The amino acids (valine and leucine, usually) and salts put into some energy food products have been shown to improve athletic performance over sugars alone. So, if you want a quick energy boost, eat a high GI food. But if you want that energy to last, temper it with some mid and low GI foods. One study at Ohio State showed that a Snickers bar is pretty good in this respect, whereas a Power Bar caused a quick spike and drop in blood sugar. The take-home message is to eat whole foods that naturally have a combination of nutrients. Climbers are generally operating at a low aerobic level where we're burning fats along with sugars, so eat some fat (seed and fish oils are quite good for you; essential, even). Eat tasty stuff that's good for you that you'll like. Food won't do anything if you can't stomach it. hope this helps.

quote: Originally posted by scott harpell: yeah i cant remember what brand...but there i like a new 9.7-8mm rope that is a 10 fall rope....i dotn know if that would suffice.... Bluewater Lighting Pro: http://www.bluewaterropes.com/Dynamic_Ropes/DynamicRopes-9.7mm.htm

In Seattle on April 1st. Portland on the 2nd.

I saw these guys play in Sun Valley last week, and they're awesome. Sort of Jazz, Funk, Techno all combined into a great sound. The venues are given on their website: www.laketrout.com

If you want a shorter rope, some manufacturers will sell off short pieces at great prices. If you just want to climb closer together, you can always coil part of the ends (or just one end), and tie in short. If I'm simul-climbing on harder terrain, I prefer more rope between my partner and myself to minimize the weight I'd feel if my partner fell. This strategy also gives the leader a little more stretch to reach a stance when the second isn't moving as fast. I've done this with ropes of 50, 55 and 60 meters, single and double.

quote: Originally posted by pindude: freeclimb,All I'm saying is if you are going to be a historian, you better be using a bibliography. Referring as a source to your "friends at BD" and some conversation you might have had is nothing but hearsay. Give me a real source. Grade: F, until you provide your bibliography. pindude Shit, that sucks about the "F" grade.With regard to the Kevlar cord recall, I lived it. What would I quote as a bibliographic source? I'm not familiar with the entry format. All this stuff went down in 85, or 86, and I don't take that much gingko biloba to recall expedition details on who got the chop and where. A fixed line failed. Someone died. Kevlar was blamed. I do remember that Great Pacific Iron Works reccommended kevlar cord to me in 85 for slinging hexes, by 87 that was considered to be unwise because of the proven danger, and Chouinard Equipment sold off their remaining kevlar at low, low prices around that same time. Bluewater performed testing on nylon, kevlar and spectra cord around that time, also. The kevlar turned to powder after cycling over a 10mm rotating bar. These test results were published in one of the mags, Summit, R&I, or Climbing. I can't remember which. Believe it, or not.

quote: Originally posted by pindude: What happened to my request to transcend the bullshit? If you are going to be blaming a company for death, and spray it to the world, you'd better be pretty darn sure and post some believable SOURCES to back your shit up. Pindude,why don't check out the validity of my notes on history before you accuse me of lying. I don't appreciate the disparagement of my integrity.BTW, with regard to my friends at BD, they well know the history, practices, and limitations of the company. Where do you think I get this "shit" anyways?

quote: Originally posted by Mer: Does anyone know why certain products are only available for shipping in Canada--the ones made by MEC. Is it the co-op structure or the manufacturing setup that breaks some pesky trading rule with y'all? The exchange rate between US and Canada is the reason. US Distributors have complained of Canadian retailers undercutting their prices. So some Manufacturers of equipment have requested that MEC not ship into the US.

Rob,thanks for finding Jrat's test data. There has been testing done! I wish he could have checked out spectra also. [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: freeclimb9 ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: okay freeclimb, could you please embelish on your statement of a kevlar fixed line failing on an expediation....i would like know as personal knowledge to myself, cus one the best ways to learn is from others mistakes.... and also i have tracked your side steps to every response to your statements......do you work for the church down there or the good state of utah???? to erik, Rodchester, JoeTool, pindude, and all the skeptics of my memory:I don't remember the specifics of the accident. It was awhile ago, you know. And what would I get for looking through magazines I've got that have survived 18 years and a dozen moves to find a reference? Your undying respect for my word? And last year I made my money big game sport-fishing.

JoeTool and Rodchester, email me directly if you think I'm full of it. We can discuss your comments better that way. You're only a click away from my email, and three from my home address.

quote: Originally posted by pindude: Dude, for your sake, I would like you to come up with some independent citable source, stating it was proven Chouinard/Black Diamond's Kevlar cord was at fault for these supposed deaths. Hell, I've still got my old Chouinard hexes strung with Kevlar, and I remember the Blue Water tests and BD's change from Kevlar to Gemini cord. "Turned to powder?" Doesn't sound to me like an objective scientific term describing the result of a test, and I don't recall myself that was what happened to the Kevlar. I doubt seriously BD is at fault, even if deaths occured. And if deaths did occur, there must be SOMETHING you can provide as a source of that, although it would not necessarily tell us if BD were "at fault." I would take as a source a copy of an archived AP newstory, or a statement from BD themselves. Just saying: you recalled details "...on who got the chop and where. A fixed line failed. Someone died. Kevlar was blamed."--doesn't cut it. To blame death on a company without supporting evidence is potentially libelous. Be careful when you're slinging words. It's unfortunate many aren't on this type of forum. Grade of F still stands. pindude I don't feel obligated to prove anything to you, pindude. You're skepticism may be warranted, but your manner is crude. For my sake? Don't veil a threat, if that's what that is. FYI, Chouinard never made rope, or cord. They did distribute for Beal. That's probably what's on your hexes. Chouinard Equipment did sell off the kevlar cord back in the day. I don't know what brand cord failed as a fixed line. I never put a brand association with it. But, I challenge you to find anyone who would now reccomend kevlar for a fixed line. Why is that? Hmmmm. Beal's website (http://www.beal-planet.com) states for Aramide (i.e. kevlar) lines that it "must never be used as fixed line." Why is this statement put on their website? Coincidence? Just one more question for you, pindude, why do you think that BD only sells wired (emphasis on WIRED, not threadable) hexes these days? Love that kevlar! Bring on the libel lawsuits, one and all!

Iceicebaby, watch out for BD first runs. Black Diamond --as well as Chouinard Equipment-- IMHO, have often used the first (somtimes even second and third) production runs as their final product testing step. How many products have they done this with? I've lost count, but some notable ones are: Kevlar accessory cord. Once touted as a miracle fixing line. When it was determined that the core fibers would break into dust with repeated cycling (a couple people had to die first), Chouinard put the stuff up at sale prices rather than make a product recall. I'll never forget that move. Carbon Black Prophets. The heads fell off. Not good. Android leashes. They had a couple design flaws. The spontaneous unclipping had a tendency to un-nerve people. Sort of like the head falling off the Carbon Black Prophet. And there's more (check out http://www.bdel.com/bd/news.html for current equipment issues). But once they get a design worked out, it works well. I used to work at a testing lab in Ventura that would routinely check batches of oval carabiners. They broke at fairly consistent forces well above those quoted in specs (but not in consistent locations. If you want to see consistency, DMM sets that standard). I have friends who work at BD, and I trust their workmanship. But I also wait awhile to purchase new designs. And if you want the dope dry-tooling gloves, you got to go with the Vinylove (http://www.seamar.com/atlas/460.html)

rr666,the Technical Friend came out in the mid-eighties. Chouinard Equipment introduced the Camalot in 87, or 88, but didn't hype it much; the company was experiencing many lawsuits, and wasn't advertising much of anything. The employee buyout and renaming to Black Diamond went down at the end of 89. These days in Salt Lake, BD has their mills and lathes running for two shifts a day cranking out cams and screws. It's amazing, really. This thread got me thinking about why folks buy the gear they do. Choosing cams can involve the same impulses that smokers experience in choosing cigarette brands. It's not what's in the cigarette, but rather who smokes them. BD's success has been in part due to their marketing of themselves as climbers working for climbing. They have aligned climbing personalities with their gear more effectively than other companies (Metolius does this well too). I can't think of a single climber working with Wild Country, or Colorado Custom hardware. But BD? Man, there's a bunch.

quote: Originally posted by rr666: (yes friends [sic] have been around longer, but I think they stuck with the rigid friend too long, and lost out on some great opportunity). Wild Country introduced Flexible Friends when BD was known as Chouinard Equipment and didn't make camming devices. BD's double axis design was innovative and their cams were --and continue to be-- wrote about glowingly in the mags, and that's why they sell. Magazine reviews have a profound effect on what retail stores stock and what sales they make. Friends continue to be well made as are cams by other manufacturers, but that doesn't mean they'll be at your local outdoor speciality shop offered up as eye-candy, impulse items underneath the glass counter at the cash register. I've never even seen DMM cams at a store, but the workmanship is impeccable, and the US distribution company --Excalibur-- is one of the most honest and generous operations around.

quote: Originally posted by Country Jake: I was pondering on the use of cams... which would be your choice... Loaded question. If you're rack is doing well with passive pro, and you just want a few supplemental cams, go for BD Camalots since they overlap and cover a broad size range. A tasty selection would be .5, .75, 1, 2, and 3. Add to this a few Metolius TCUs --1, 2 and 3-- and you've got cam sizes from 1/2" to about 4". I like the TCUs over four-cam styles because they don't walk and can fit in shallower cracks. If you're gonna use the rack for aid climbing, the Metolius cams, with their hooped wire design which you can clip your etriers to directly, let you reach a few inches further. If you're just gonna get a couple cams to try, sizes around 1.5 to 3 inches are quit useful, IMO.