Jens

This move makes no sense from any standpoint.... style, ethics, traffic, crowds, or visual. Again, like the jg station that had to be replaced, this belay station (location not hardware) could perhaps be older than the person that chopped it!

And a bolted crack as the guidebook cover shot.

I'm back from my 3 hour surgery on my calcaneal fracture (broken heel). They tell me that the surgery was succesful. Since it is my right leg I can't drive for a few months ---------------- I'm eager for visitors and I might even divuldge secret new route opportunities from my "little black book" to those who come over and can tolerate my chestbeating. ----------------- For any kind soul so inclined, I'd reall enjoy a lift to any of the upcoming pub clubs and or cc.com events. I'm in Ballard and my house is easy to find. thanks for all responses to helping me know what to ask the doctors take care Jens PS. As soon as my energy returns, I'm also looking to carpool with anyone to the Seattle Vertical World so I can play on the hangboards and lift weights. If anyone is coming from the north, I am about 1 mile from the gym and just a dash off 15th.

Cheers Kurt!

Drew, you are the master of talking out your ass.

Towns around here I'd live in. Mazama Seattle (my home and paradise!) More climbers per capita than any other city in North America including Canmore, SLC, or Boulder? Leavenworth Vancouver, BC Winthrop Twisp Whistler, BC Squamish, BC (although smith has better rock climbing, cool mts. are up in the squamish area!). Ellensburg Ashford- This place is gonna boom someday! Love the Highlander bar! Lillooet, BC- maybe (I've never been outside of ice climbing season) Bellingham -------- Climber towns that are Nos for me personally: North Bend-to much rain! double the amount of annual precip of Seattle. 100+ inches some years. Tacoma- to sketchy for crime. My brother lives down in the area and tells me plenty of stories. Portland: No ice climbing or serious alpine Yakima: scary

Midway 5.5 and Outer space 5.9 are some of the best multipitch routes anywhere. -------------------------- And to throw this in: Washington's best multipitch trad route: Leavenworth's Outer Space Washington's finest trad climbing: Leavenworth's- Midnight Rock Washington's finest granite sport or face climbing-Leavenworth's Nason ridge (It ain't gneiss). Washington's finest alpine rock route: Leavenworth's Colchuck Balanced Rock Washington's best bouldering (defined as having the most areas that are clean, with good rock): Leavenworth (various-spread out) Washington's finest ice climb: Leavenworth's Drury Falls Washington's finest individual trad pitch: Leavenworth's ROTC Washington's most historical rock route: Leavenworth's Midway

Troll? ----------------- I'll bite.... I haven't heard. Rumor has it that a number of climbers (including some highly respected members in the climbing community that are actually sport climbers!) have contemplated removing the bolts and returning it to the state in which is was originally climbed (Or at least 80% of the same line). Why people drive out to climb this route is beyond me. ----------------

Years ago I talked to a climber dude when I was a teenager who raced the bikes you describe for a living all over the country. He said if WSP is chasing him on the freeway and their are plenty of exits into residential neighborhoods, the cops had no chance and would freqently just give up. He'd frequently engage them in the middle of the night for fun. It was a dirty little secret that all cops knew that would never make the news. Not like the typical thug who steals a cadilac escalade and gets chased. He told me some crazy number about how his bike could go from 0-insane in just seconds. These things go way faster than any law enforcement vehicle and start, stop, and turn on a dime. Didn't Jerry Moffat race bikes?

Cool pics guys! It looks like you had fun. That route is awesome!

Man they had more troopers out over the memorial day weekend than I have ever seen. ----------------- When you go to court, bring visuals; posters, maps, diagrams, etc. I'm told judges view you as someone who is serious about this. ---------------- And for the future: Here are the type of climbers that don't get tickets- drive a pickup, have no ear piercings, have short hair, be wearing a baseball cap, drive an american made vehicle, have no tattoos, no bumper stickers, don't have a license plate frame that indicates you bought your car in Seattle, have all your paperwork out before he even shows up, have your hands on 10 and 2 the whole time and look him in the eye and dont' stutter or argue. Many groups of people customarily argue with law enforcement and thus more often end up with a poor outcome. I had an old clmbing buddy from texas that met all the above critera and had pulled over 14 times by WSP and never got a ticket.

That thing is gnarly! Pre-reqs: high pain tolerance, tape, long lock-off ability between pods, wire brush. Go get it Ben! That thing has gotta be 5.13?

Does the access fund have the political clout to lobby for the permanent removal of the gate at Bridge Creek Campground that blocks the road to the north side of the Stuart/ Colchuck area for much of the year? Could it be made a priority? I can make a very convincing argument (offline) that such a move would; have zero environmental impact, cost the forest service virtually nothing, wouldn't give the forest service many headaches, and would vastly increase the access for a variety of winter users.

*Broke my heel bone bouldering and banged up the other leg pretty good. *I am housebound and no climbing for at least 2 months. *No driving for me

Thanks again guys!

Wow! cc'ers have always been the most caring folks. Perhaps I'll throw a top rope on something cavish in the gym in a month. I hope Layton and others can weigh in when they get back. ---- I'm having a tough time getting around on the crutches as the other heel is pretty banged up also. At first glance at the x-rays they thought the other heel was broken also. Luckily it isn't otherwise they said I'd be in a wheelchair. ---- Didn't this happen to Chris Sharma sometime back? ---- Thanks for all the awesome advice. Keep it coming. Jens K.

It will depend on your French technique familiarity. I've seen a range from people bent over frontpointing with two ice tools and placing ice screws to skilled french techniqe and a walking axe. Defintely leave the aluminum crampons at home and bring steel ones though.

Does anyone know anything about broken heel bones? I was bouldering a highball topout yesterday and one of the finishing holds snapped unexpectedly. I fell about 20 feet and landed wrong in the talus below. Thanks so much to the other climbers and others that helped me. X-rays said that I have a broken heel bone. The ER docs put a temporary hard cast on the back of the leg and wrapped it up and told me to see an othropedic specialist when I get back to King County. *How long do these things take to heel? I'm in a ton of pain right now! *Since I am told all the orthopedic guys are on holiday, will the bone start to heal wrong if left alone for 4-5 days before I can see anyone? *Do I have any other options to get this thing treated sooner? * Anyone else ever break a heel climbing? * The ER doc said that climbing is probably out for the summer-really? *Will I have heel sensitivity for much of my life? *Does anyone know a good orthopedic specialist in the greater Seattle area? Please help

How long have they been "crafting their plan". It has certainly been a while! It is a great area.

These are sweet shoes (I own 4 pair). If you wear a 10.5 street shoe, the 39's will be a performance fit.

Well put sparky. Some people bash on the place but their is no denying it certainly has amazing potential. Plus it already has some great routes. The square mile around the routes could potentially be a hotbed of WA climbing. I've certainly got my eye on one classic line if they ever lift the moratorium!

That' a pretty unique pattern. Perhaps the underlying rock/choss topography falls away and down like that? On A glacier on granitic bedrock it would be way less likely to look like that.

Speaking of technology and everest was it today in the seattle times online I saw the photo of the basecamp lounge with a color flat screen plasma TV that was as big as in many local taverns? The article mentioned that everest climbers could lounge in comfort and safety accilimitizing while watching TV and being served drinks. It looked like the floor was carpeted.

The drip wall at Leavenworth has perhaps some of the finest granite sport routes in the state. Directions are in the guidebook. Avoid the "Condomorphine Addiction" route.