Jens

Thanks again guys!

Wow! cc'ers have always been the most caring folks. Perhaps I'll throw a top rope on something cavish in the gym in a month. I hope Layton and others can weigh in when they get back. ---- I'm having a tough time getting around on the crutches as the other heel is pretty banged up also. At first glance at the x-rays they thought the other heel was broken also. Luckily it isn't otherwise they said I'd be in a wheelchair. ---- Didn't this happen to Chris Sharma sometime back? ---- Thanks for all the awesome advice. Keep it coming. Jens K.

It will depend on your French technique familiarity. I've seen a range from people bent over frontpointing with two ice tools and placing ice screws to skilled french techniqe and a walking axe. Defintely leave the aluminum crampons at home and bring steel ones though.

Does anyone know anything about broken heel bones? I was bouldering a highball topout yesterday and one of the finishing holds snapped unexpectedly. I fell about 20 feet and landed wrong in the talus below. Thanks so much to the other climbers and others that helped me. X-rays said that I have a broken heel bone. The ER docs put a temporary hard cast on the back of the leg and wrapped it up and told me to see an othropedic specialist when I get back to King County. *How long do these things take to heel? I'm in a ton of pain right now! *Since I am told all the orthopedic guys are on holiday, will the bone start to heal wrong if left alone for 4-5 days before I can see anyone? *Do I have any other options to get this thing treated sooner? * Anyone else ever break a heel climbing? * The ER doc said that climbing is probably out for the summer-really? *Will I have heel sensitivity for much of my life? *Does anyone know a good orthopedic specialist in the greater Seattle area? Please help

How long have they been "crafting their plan". It has certainly been a while! It is a great area.

Well put sparky. Some people bash on the place but their is no denying it certainly has amazing potential. Plus it already has some great routes. The square mile around the routes could potentially be a hotbed of WA climbing. I've certainly got my eye on one classic line if they ever lift the moratorium!

That' a pretty unique pattern. Perhaps the underlying rock/choss topography falls away and down like that? On A glacier on granitic bedrock it would be way less likely to look like that.

Speaking of technology and everest was it today in the seattle times online I saw the photo of the basecamp lounge with a color flat screen plasma TV that was as big as in many local taverns? The article mentioned that everest climbers could lounge in comfort and safety accilimitizing while watching TV and being served drinks. It looked like the floor was carpeted.

The drip wall at Leavenworth has perhaps some of the finest granite sport routes in the state. Directions are in the guidebook. Avoid the "Condomorphine Addiction" route.

Not to rain on anyone's parade but all the boulering described in this thread is fun but not 3 or 4 star by any stretch.

No that ain't the ethic. One month isn't reasonable. If you are a regular joe that works during the week that could mean only 4 days of rehearsing the route! (One weekend day a week) Yikes, Sharma and others never send their masterpieces that quick! Some areas have seen or heard of cast iron frying pans padlocked to hangers and the like because of route poachers. I guess many of us will have to continue to leave some drilled holes empty until redpoint day.....sad.

The Mazama store rocks! It is always worth a stop.

175 days is quite impressive for a non employee. I talked to a ski guide who said he got 250 days one year. He was working both northern and southern hemispheres. My record is 71 days on skis. I did manage to get 26 days on ice this year.

In my humble opinion, the only places daisy chains are handy are for *big wall techy aid routes. *Cleaning or prepping new routes. Their are better, safer, more versitale, lighter things for all other applications

Newbies, This question will vary from area to area depending on how many visiting road trippers visit. I'd say on average about 7 months for a route at a year round -season sport crag is legit. I've snagged redpoints from climbers who have had to have surgery and the like and then opened them up out of the kindness of their heart. If this guy is that hurt, 2 years? Did he have surgery? That is excessive to hold onto it thaaaaaat long. ------------------- I'll sometimes just leave 3-4 drilled holes empty until I am ready to send the route.

The static rope might snap the harness and possibly break the back of the climber. Go down to one of the shops and buy the 30m BEAL 8mm rope. It is yellow and sells for 59 bucks. It will work on even the hardest routes on Rainier and will also see you through any two man glacier travel. It doesn't weigh a thing. ----------------------- In the Alps, most of the guides only have about 10 feet of rope between them and the clients on even the most nasty of glaciers.

Very sad news indeed. Mizuki had a passion and energy out climbing that was unmatched. I was amazed at her determination whether on ice or rock. ---------- Last fall, Alex K. spent a little time starting to film digital scenes for a climbing film project to be eventually edited. For the first day of filming, Mizuki and I were the climbers. Perhaps some of Mizuki's footage would be a fitting tribute if it could played in her memory at this fall's annual cc.com Leavenworth roundup. --------- She will be missed.

Rudy, you are right a lot of people think this site is a joke but...It has and will continue to be THE Journal of Record for alpine routes in the Cascades. ----

Doesn't Jim Nelson have like over 100 ascents of Stuart (mostly north side routes in all seasons)? I think I heard this third hand. I do remember the climbing or rock and ice magazine bit about the Girth Pillar winter ascent.

Skiied off from 11K on Rainier. Went to the climbing gym.

I say that this thread should be dumped until we get the thumbs up from the access fund.

I say that this thread should be dumped until we get the thumbs up from the access fund.

3 weeks ago when I was climbing there, as stated above, their were some new "No Trespassing" signs right over the trail that was made to keep people away from people's houses. We went anyways but just kept a real low profile. Coming out, right before the mailboxes, a guy stopped and stared at us a while like he was going to call the cops. Luckily worse case scenario, it looks as if someday if the need arose, someone could make a trail a mile or two up or down from the crag that gained elevation and then traversed to the climbing. I'm fairly new to Nason but I would say that the access is as sensitive as ever and perhaps the moderators should delete this post until it gets sorted out otherwise tomorrow morning we will see drones of folks crashing around in people's backyards as thy try to find the crag. ------------ The area is awesome and is perhaps the only area where you don't have to have any footwork skill or endurance to climb hard.

Dru, this is the newbies section, what are you doing lurking around here! ----- Funny satire on my words of wisdom though.