Bronco

Upper Town Wall fire closure update: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Washington-Climbers-Coalition/166875886759468

Fun read, I spent a four days in Zermatt last July waiting for a weather window that never materialized. Rode the cable car to Schwarzsee with a load of Japanese tourists who I should've charged for photos, they were sure I was a swiss guide based on my touristy Switzerland hat and red goretex coat. Your summary precisely describes my observations as well, especially the $$$ and food.

That sucks but is somewhat ironically humorous that Trent didn't get sick. Nice work otherwise!

I'm surprised it took him that long. http://www.skintrack.com/skimo-racing/reports-results/2015-mondole-world-cup-report/

That's awesome!

It'll be interesting to see how it started. Any speculation?

Terrible outfit, sailor top with red sweatpants? No wonder the bear is so angry.

Nice work chossdawgs. Not to sound like a complete imbecile, but is that Mt. Baker in these two photos? Different angle than I'm used to seeing I guess.

Nice! How about some photos?

Yes, the grid bolt comment was intended to be humorous. I agree, it's a short enough walk to the NW Peak from the parking lot and certainly would be a viable crag if developed a bit. Maybe there's already been some and just not publicized.

Trip: White Chuck - NW Ridge Date: 7/11/2015 Trip Report: The brush on Saturday soaked us from the waist down within 30 seconds of leaving the parking lot. Intermittent rain and 100 yards of visibility most of the day were sort of discouraging but Dave, being on his first "climb" was ecstatic the entire 5 hour round trip. I was pleasantly surprised how grippy the rock remained when wet. There are cairns right where you want them, but not too many. Fun day in the mountains and makes me curious about the other mid- fifth ridge routes on the mountain. Anyone have the scoop on those? Scary? Good Pro? Summit shot, look at that view! Dave negotiating the "crux", we didn't expect it to be so overhanging. One moment of visibility, checking out the grid bolting possibilities. Gear Notes: Took a rope and didn't use it. YMMV. Approach Notes: Driving Directions from summitpost.com (these are pretty accurate). Subie Forester was perfect for this road, full size trucks would probably get pretty scraped up by vegetation and the clearance was helpful in a few rougher places. State Route 530 leads into the center of Darrington. Turn left (north) in front of the convenience store. After ~0.2 miles turn right on Sauk Prairie Road. After ~1.5 miles turn right onto Dan Creek FSR #24 and follow this for 8 miles keeping left at the fork at 4.3 miles. The road switchbacks several times then begins a long traverse into the head waters of Dan Creek. After ~8 miles on FSR #24, the road reaches a T-intersection. Turn left onto FSR #2430 Shortly thereafter stay right at a minor junction onto FSR #2435. From here-on follow FSR #2435 for 5.3 miles as it winds it way into the headwaters of Decline Creek. It eventually reaches the ridge-crest, switchbacks some more, and comes to a fork. At this last fork, stay to the right and follow to the end of the road at just over 4800' elevation. This is where the trail starts.

Really great photos and well written story. Your partner looks like he could use the meat.

Josh, are you or one of your partners a roofer who was working in Snohomish last week by any chance? Great photos, glad to see the arete and upper glacier are in good shape despite the hot wedder.

Great photos and quick climb. Personally, I can't imagine how messed up my feet would be after a day like that in those "approach" shoes. You are some tough mofos.

Great story, not sure what the connection is. Is there one?

It looks out to me due to more frequent rockfall as the snow and ice continue to melt out. With the hot temperatures forecast for this weekend, it'll only get worse. I climbed it in 2003 during a hot spell in early June and experience several close calls with rocks zinging down the ridge despite it being a "normal" snow year. Personally, I'd wait for next May/June. Typically this route is best done immediately after the White River Trailhead is opened for the season. I believe it's been open since April. Is there any current info on the Mt. Rainier Climbing Ranger blog?

Sounds burly, should probably add it to the "to do" list. Nice job!

I'm wondering if the accident occurred on the Chickamin Glacier. I'd be really surprised if there is anywhere on the Dome Glacier where a 1,200' fall into a crevasse is even possible. Glad to hear your friends are safe and were able to help the fallen climber.

I thought this most appropriate for spray - Contrariwise con·trar·i·wise adverb in the opposite way or order. in contrast to something that has just been stated or mentioned. "contrariwise, a registered person may vote, even if not entitled to be registered"

Dang, someone PM'd me last week for photos of the Chickamin Glacier. They were planning to solo Sinister last weekend. I deleted the PM and don't remember his name. Glad to hear they were rescued (whoever the climber is) and hope for a speedy recovery.

From here: http://mynorthwest.com/11/2775593/Gangs-to-march-through-Seattle-for-police-accountability- Gangs across Seattle will take to the streets Friday evening to march in solidarity as part of the United Hood March Seattle. "We are tired of waking up to black men, women, children dead because of violence in our community, or police brutality," an online flier for the march states. The flier from the United Gang Mambers of Seattle has also been posted on anarchists Facebook pages. The march aims to address violence in Seattle communities as well as police brutality, locally and nationally. "Myself and another brother who's from the Southend, had gotten together around the time of the Baltimore situation, and we've just been thinking about the big picture," march organizer, and member of the Deuce 0, Amir Islam told The Stranger. "There's been barbecues, trying to feed folks, local kids, homeless people. There's basketball events (between rival hoods), we're gonna keep it going. We feel like it's a movement, the United Hood Movement." "We can't ignore that the police have been killing us, but we also can't ignore that a 2-year-old had just got killed in Kent," he told the Stranger. "We care about Black people." The United Hood March Seattle is scheduled for 5:30-8:30 p.m. and will start at the Seattle Police Department at 610 5th Avenue. A demonstration is planned at the police department and then at city hall to demand more accountability from the police, the mayor, and the city. Marchers will then walk to Myrtle Edwards Park on the Seattle waterfront. At the park, the event will transition to a memorial for loved ones who have lost their life to violence. There will be a releasing of balloons. The dress code for the United Hood March Seattle is all black. The event's flier encourages all people to join the march. "…don't be discouraged if you are not black, or gang affiliated," it states. Seattle police are aware of the march and will be present along the march's route. Police plan to treat it equally to other downtown demonstrations, according to a department source. "We are working directly with the organizers," Sgt. Sean Whitcomb. "It is a permitted event. And we are going to provide public safety services just like we do for all demonstrations." As for the attendees, Whitcomb said, "There are a number of people who affiliate with gangs; that doesn't become their sole identity, there are a number of factors. It is such a complex and nuanced reality."

Somehow that photo rotated when I uploaded it to the gallery. Maybe a moderator can fix it. I guess I can look forward to Juan dragging me up Sinister now that he knows it's doable in a weekend. Thanks for nothing LUKE!

It was John's idea. In fact, he thought we should get up super early on Sunday and attempt to climb Sinister before hiking out. I can't imagine trying to navigate Bachelor Creek in the dark and was able to convince him that may be a little too ambitious for me. He probably could've done it.

Trip: Dome Peak - Dome Glacier Date: 6/13/2015 Trip Report: Juan and I climbed the regular route on Dome Peak over two 12-hour days. Kind of strenuous for two middle-aged desk jockeys but beautiful scenery and pretty good weather. Totally worth it and we hope to be back soon for other peaks. Some noteworthy points: • The Starbucks in the Arlington Safeway doesn’t open until 6:00 am; • The coffee at the Darrington Shell station is drinkable, barely; • WTA has cleared the Downey Creek Trail all the way to Bachelor Creek and some of the way up the Bachelor Creek drainage; • The Bachelor Creek crossing is closer to 4,100’ than 4,000’; • If you lose the “trail” through here, the Potterfield/Nelson advice is good: stop and retrace your steps until you find it. (we don’t recommend dropping your pack, however, because you may never find it again); • Stay to the right of the avalanche debris until it gets steep, then make a rising traverse leftward on a decent trail (this will save a lot of time and effort); • Trails all the way up to Itswoot Ridge are snow free and both lakes are long melted out; • Running water at Itswoot Ridge allowed us to load up and arrive at the Dome/Chickamin Col (elev. roughly 8,560) with plenty for the night; • Dome Glacier had some very small cracks but blue ice showing down low. You’d have to try very hard to fall into a crack at this point; • With the great forecast, we each packed pretty light bivy sacks that we somewhat regretted as we ate dinner in a graupel and snow flurry. It was a rather chilly night for both of us; • Frozen boots in the morning suck but helped to mitigate foot inflammation; • The snaffle hound at the Col bivy preferred Juan’s Lowe Alpine pack as mine was untouched. His pack was chewed up and he (the attorney/abogado) will discuss his extended warranty rights with Big Jim Nelson; • The “climb” to the summit was anticlimactic but views were fantastic; • The ‘schrund crossing to access the Chickamin Glacier looks manageable right now but the glacier itself is getting pretty broken up. If you’re planning a climb of Sinister or Gunsight, this summer, you’d better get on it; • The hike out was going well until we became complacent at about 4,100’ and overshot the creek crossing. The grade quickly goes from BW III+ to full on BW V if you lose the trail here. This cost us some time and blood but at least we found several bear beds (complete with fresh bear scat) deep in the head-high brush; • The Downey Creek trail is long but not as soul-crushing as the hike out from Goode via Bridge Creek/PCT; • In summary, this is a nice but strenuous outing that should become more enjoyable as people take advantage of the newly repaired road and resulting improved access. Photo Onslaught: John enjoying the brush in Bachelor Creek Cub Lake Dome from somewhere around Itswoot Ridge Enjoying some hot food and working on my modeling career for Mountain House (can I get a sponsor now?) Me really wishing we'd brought a tent instead. Note the snow accumulating on the bags. Sunset from the Bivy Juan approaching the summit arete North Face of Glacier also looking good Glad to be on the Summit North Face of Sinister looking to be in prime condition Friends in the register who came through here a few years ago Juan taking a last look at Dome and looking forward to the hike out.

This story is kind of reminiscent of "The Jerk" starring Steve Martin. [video:youtube]