Bronco

I thought this most appropriate for spray - Contrariwise con·trar·i·wise adverb in the opposite way or order. in contrast to something that has just been stated or mentioned. "contrariwise, a registered person may vote, even if not entitled to be registered"

Dang, someone PM'd me last week for photos of the Chickamin Glacier. They were planning to solo Sinister last weekend. I deleted the PM and don't remember his name. Glad to hear they were rescued (whoever the climber is) and hope for a speedy recovery.

From here: http://mynorthwest.com/11/2775593/Gangs-to-march-through-Seattle-for-police-accountability- Gangs across Seattle will take to the streets Friday evening to march in solidarity as part of the United Hood March Seattle. "We are tired of waking up to black men, women, children dead because of violence in our community, or police brutality," an online flier for the march states. The flier from the United Gang Mambers of Seattle has also been posted on anarchists Facebook pages. The march aims to address violence in Seattle communities as well as police brutality, locally and nationally. "Myself and another brother who's from the Southend, had gotten together around the time of the Baltimore situation, and we've just been thinking about the big picture," march organizer, and member of the Deuce 0, Amir Islam told The Stranger. "There's been barbecues, trying to feed folks, local kids, homeless people. There's basketball events (between rival hoods), we're gonna keep it going. We feel like it's a movement, the United Hood Movement." "We can't ignore that the police have been killing us, but we also can't ignore that a 2-year-old had just got killed in Kent," he told the Stranger. "We care about Black people." The United Hood March Seattle is scheduled for 5:30-8:30 p.m. and will start at the Seattle Police Department at 610 5th Avenue. A demonstration is planned at the police department and then at city hall to demand more accountability from the police, the mayor, and the city. Marchers will then walk to Myrtle Edwards Park on the Seattle waterfront. At the park, the event will transition to a memorial for loved ones who have lost their life to violence. There will be a releasing of balloons. The dress code for the United Hood March Seattle is all black. The event's flier encourages all people to join the march. "…don't be discouraged if you are not black, or gang affiliated," it states. Seattle police are aware of the march and will be present along the march's route. Police plan to treat it equally to other downtown demonstrations, according to a department source. "We are working directly with the organizers," Sgt. Sean Whitcomb. "It is a permitted event. And we are going to provide public safety services just like we do for all demonstrations." As for the attendees, Whitcomb said, "There are a number of people who affiliate with gangs; that doesn't become their sole identity, there are a number of factors. It is such a complex and nuanced reality."

Somehow that photo rotated when I uploaded it to the gallery. Maybe a moderator can fix it. I guess I can look forward to Juan dragging me up Sinister now that he knows it's doable in a weekend. Thanks for nothing LUKE!

It was John's idea. In fact, he thought we should get up super early on Sunday and attempt to climb Sinister before hiking out. I can't imagine trying to navigate Bachelor Creek in the dark and was able to convince him that may be a little too ambitious for me. He probably could've done it.

Trip: Dome Peak - Dome Glacier Date: 6/13/2015 Trip Report: Juan and I climbed the regular route on Dome Peak over two 12-hour days. Kind of strenuous for two middle-aged desk jockeys but beautiful scenery and pretty good weather. Totally worth it and we hope to be back soon for other peaks. Some noteworthy points: • The Starbucks in the Arlington Safeway doesn’t open until 6:00 am; • The coffee at the Darrington Shell station is drinkable, barely; • WTA has cleared the Downey Creek Trail all the way to Bachelor Creek and some of the way up the Bachelor Creek drainage; • The Bachelor Creek crossing is closer to 4,100’ than 4,000’; • If you lose the “trail” through here, the Potterfield/Nelson advice is good: stop and retrace your steps until you find it. (we don’t recommend dropping your pack, however, because you may never find it again); • Stay to the right of the avalanche debris until it gets steep, then make a rising traverse leftward on a decent trail (this will save a lot of time and effort); • Trails all the way up to Itswoot Ridge are snow free and both lakes are long melted out; • Running water at Itswoot Ridge allowed us to load up and arrive at the Dome/Chickamin Col (elev. roughly 8,560) with plenty for the night; • Dome Glacier had some very small cracks but blue ice showing down low. You’d have to try very hard to fall into a crack at this point; • With the great forecast, we each packed pretty light bivy sacks that we somewhat regretted as we ate dinner in a graupel and snow flurry. It was a rather chilly night for both of us; • Frozen boots in the morning suck but helped to mitigate foot inflammation; • The snaffle hound at the Col bivy preferred Juan’s Lowe Alpine pack as mine was untouched. His pack was chewed up and he (the attorney/abogado) will discuss his extended warranty rights with Big Jim Nelson; • The “climb” to the summit was anticlimactic but views were fantastic; • The ‘schrund crossing to access the Chickamin Glacier looks manageable right now but the glacier itself is getting pretty broken up. If you’re planning a climb of Sinister or Gunsight, this summer, you’d better get on it; • The hike out was going well until we became complacent at about 4,100’ and overshot the creek crossing. The grade quickly goes from BW III+ to full on BW V if you lose the trail here. This cost us some time and blood but at least we found several bear beds (complete with fresh bear scat) deep in the head-high brush; • The Downey Creek trail is long but not as soul-crushing as the hike out from Goode via Bridge Creek/PCT; • In summary, this is a nice but strenuous outing that should become more enjoyable as people take advantage of the newly repaired road and resulting improved access. Photo Onslaught: John enjoying the brush in Bachelor Creek Cub Lake Dome from somewhere around Itswoot Ridge Enjoying some hot food and working on my modeling career for Mountain House (can I get a sponsor now?) Me really wishing we'd brought a tent instead. Note the snow accumulating on the bags. Sunset from the Bivy Juan approaching the summit arete North Face of Glacier also looking good Glad to be on the Summit North Face of Sinister looking to be in prime condition Friends in the register who came through here a few years ago Juan taking a last look at Dome and looking forward to the hike out.

This story is kind of reminiscent of "The Jerk" starring Steve Martin. [video:youtube]

I think what Mike is saying is have your gear/food/clothing dialed in so you're in constant motion. Fuel while on the move, have important stuff packed where it's easily accessible, be thinking ahead to what's next so you're mentally prepared for the next transition and have the sequence of the next transition thought through. (need to put on my harness first, then crampons, grab an energy gel, flake the rope, etc.) I know from personal experience that I can become dependent on a more experienced partner and wait for his queue before performing certain tasks. This process starts in the planning stages of the climb. It may seem silly but by looking at a route description, you should be able to mentally go through potential transition points. Each person in the group should have a pretty good idea of whats happening next. Communication within the group should also be constant. Also, pack light. Scrutinize each item, you might be surprised if you think about when the last time you needed certain items. You say you consider yourself to be fairly fit. What are you doing for training? Back in the "old days" I considered myself a fairly fit 18 year old and was truly humbled by trying to keep up with a 70 year old logger who I was supposed to be helping pull some cedar blocks out of the woods. There is something innate to moving efficiently through different terrain that can best (only?) be trained by doing it. Try to get out with a heavy pack and get off trail, traveling cross country. You may look like some deranged mountain man but it has been very helpful to prepare me physically for mountaineering, especially since I have a desk job now.

Nice to see this route getting some more traffic, another one to add to the list. Steve is really racking up the FSAs as well!

Are they these shoes?http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1139454/LOST_Women_s_La_Sportiva_Mytho#Post1139454

This has got to be the most overused and tired cliche since the first ascent of the Matterhorn. Am I right or am I right?

THANKS OBAMA!!! (I crack myself up sometimes) Guess our Senior has one more day to endure: MUKILTEO TEACHERS TO HOLD ONE-DAY WALKOUT ON MAY 20. Members of the Mukilteo Education Association (MEA), the union that represents teachers who are employed by the Mukilteo School District, have voted to participate in a one-day walkout on Wednesday, May 20. With the walkout, classes in all Mukilteo schools will be canceled on that day. Union leadership has emphasized with school district officials that their action is not a strike against the school district or its students, families or the community. They explain that their action is being done as a way for staff to show solidarity with their colleagues across the state and to send a message to the state legislature about the importance of adequate funding for education. Although all classes will be canceled on Wednesday, May 20 as a result of the teacher walkout, some activities will proceed as scheduled. Classes at the Sno-Isle Tech Skills Center and at the Early Childhood Education Assistance Program (ECEAP) will continue as scheduled. Transportation to out-of-district programs also will be available as usual. Due to the one-day walkout on May 20, the missed day of school will be added to the end of the school year. As a result, the previously scheduled last day, Thursday, June 11, will become a full day of school rather than an early-dismissal day. The final day of school will occur on Friday, June 12, which will be an early-dismissal day.

Nice work, thanks for the report. I was camped at Thumb Rock in 2003 on a warm afternoon when the ice cap let a serac go. The cloud came right at us but the debris veered off both sides of Liberty Ridge and ran out onto the Carbon Glacier far below. I voted to descend but my two partners were able to talk me into completing the climb. I wonder if that route gets scoured off more frequently than most of us want to admit.

Love the look on the batters face! Had high hopes for the M's going into the season. Oh well, another year of suckage.

I don't have any experience with those Alps Mtneering tents but commend you asking about them. The worst I've ever slept was in a tent that was not specifically designed for mountaineering in a fairly mild wind. Have you looked at used tents? Look for used Walrus brand. It was bought by MSR a few years ago but they made great tents. I have no idea about this particular tent or seller but there's a lot of solid tents on Ebay if you look: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walrus-two-to-three-person-three-season-tent-EUC-/121640603664?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c52585010

Sounds like a fun day out!

Thanks for the reminder to put a garbage bag back in my pack and for the TR!

Welcome Steve. Freedom of the Hills is a good general resource book but I'd also add Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House and I still dig out my old Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight for various references. I haven't spent a lot of time in Mike Layton's newest book yet but it contains volumes of information on training, diet and moving in the mountains which is helpful. Summer weight puffy parka for sub 10,000 peaks in the PNW should weigh about a pound and be synthetic insulation IMO (not down). Hood is a matter of preference although it's cheap insurance in the event of an unplanned bivy or crappy weather. These types of jackets are available for around $100-$150 if you shop around. Examples would be the Arcteryx Nuclei and Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody off the top of my head. The layers you listed are perfectly fine. Add a pair of soft-shell pants and you have it covered for about 95% of outings. I went with cheaper and used gear when I started out but had a young family. It's really a matter of preference and means but I can say that there's been a few miserable experiences when I've wished I'd spent the extra money on better gear. That being said, it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools and some of my partners who have ratty coats and packs can (and do) hand me my ass on a regular basis. Good luck!

Might help to specify what binders are included. I've skied the Manaslu for 3 seasons and feel it's a great width and appropriate rocker for the PNW bc missions while being light weight. Also happy with the Dynafit skins.

Nice work, it looks like a weird but good season over there. I've always wanted to get on the North Couloir of Abiathar. Didn't you represent yourself as a new skier a year or two ago?

For a potential alternative Mt. Adams is relatively close, offers higher altitude and is less technical by the standard route. That being said, if you're a competent rock and ice climber and have taken a glacier travel course, you should be fine on Mt. Hood. Obviously a good weather forecast is important but I'd also recommend a weekday climb if possible. Good weather on a May weekend can be quite crowded on any route ascending the Hogback.

No but you could try to claim diplomatic immunity, right?

Lowell, thanks for your work on recording all of those descents, very cool to see them all in one spot!

You've changed MAN!

I think Keenwesh may be the first although I'm not sure when his dad started posting here.