Alasdair

I would agree with the challenger thing. It is a great peak in a great area. As far as goode goes, I would agree that that is a good objective, but if you are thinking on going there soon, I would caution you that getting on to the glacier could be a major obstical unless you are comfortable climbing vertical ice seracs that look like they are about to collapse.

It was snowing above 8,000 on Stuart yesterday. There wont be any accumulation in the Enchantments basin.

Conditions have changed greatly from last year. The whole mountain shattered over the winter and it is now a huge pile of loose crappy rock. I am sure it will be a lot of fun. Once on top find a large flat rock stand on it a surf down all the other loose rock back to camp.

Well I cant say bushies reaction impressed me. Bringing down the Taliban was good. Invading Iraq pissed off most of the arab world and increased membership of Al qaida and the hatred toward america. In addition bushies continued support of Israel at all costs will guarantee more 911 type attacks.

So he is exactly like bush. So what the hell do you care which one is elected.

BBC News

They are saving money. The white paint is cheaper.

She had fallen off of the tree when we got there so we taped her back on. I hope she was still there when you guys got back to her. Did you get up Terror?

Climb: Chopping Block-NE Buttress Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: Left the car at 5:45 and headed up the trail to the campsite at the east side of the pickets, below the Mcmillan spires. Traversed accross to the barrier and crossed the barrier in the obvious red rock gully. Once over the barrier continued directly to the ridge between Deganhardt and Chopping block took this ridge to the summit. Rapped off and headed back to the barrier. Followed the ridge of the barrier into the trees and conviniently ran in to Jim Nelson who marked the point on the ridge where we should drop down to Terror creek. Lost the trail immediatly upon dropping of the ridge and bushwhacked all the way to the old logging road where the trail we took up starts. Hiked back to the car. Got back to the car about 8:15. One question: does anyone know if there really is a trail of any sort that heads up the ridge on the west side of terror creek? If so where the fuck is it, and how do you get to it? Gear Notes: 8 mil rope no crampons no axe no extra cloths no nothing... Approach Notes: long

We do have a Washington Ice guide, but the majority of the routes in it dont come in and when they do they suck. If you want to go to the northwest and ice climb fly to seattle rent a car and drive to banff. Or better yet fly to Calgary.

Some of you might appreciate this pic from the prolog a couple of weeks ago.

I am not saying your wrong, but they dont tend to use heavy machined iron on aircraft, and never have.

If you are talking about very small shards of plastic and metal then it is from howitzer shells used for avalanch control. I noticed a shit load of this type of debris when I was on those slabs.

I have a few more here... http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/pickets/pickets2003.htm

I have a few here that you are welcome to use for your class as long as you give photo credit. http://www.nwclimber.com/weather/weatherphotos.htm

Sounds to me like your climbing partners made the right decision. If there is one place that is likely to have shitty weather it is the eldorado, boston basin area. And in case you haven't seen it the weather is going to suck this weekend.

Well you would not want to fall over backwards, because you would probalby slide a long way. It is a pretty good route, I enjoyed it.

Ade dont you have a picture of that section?

New beta band, the Streets & RJd2

Here is another picture of the girth. This is shot from the ledge below where the dificult climbing starts. It is very loose and crappy below where this was shot.

I wore tennies all the way to the end of the lake last weekend.

I had a pretty good look at Dragontail. Serpentine would go no problem, buy there is snow getting up to the 5.8 section. The backbone looked wet, and would probably be quite hard right now.

Yep that was me.

Climb: Colchuck-NBC Date of Climb: 5/15/2004 Trip Report: Drove to leavenworth Friday night, set alarm for 3, but it ran out of batteries over night and woke up at 4:45. Was on trail at 5. Route is in good shape, nice solid snow conditions. Made summit at about 9:30, where I met a couple of guys from the east side of the state. Headed down to colchuck col and started up to tag the summit of Dragontail. After about 100 ft decided my legs hurt too much and headed down to the lake. Back at car around noon. All and all a great day out. Gear Notes: I used two tools but one is all that is needed. I just like climbing with two tools. Approach Notes: Used running shoes all the way to the end of the lake. It was light enough to travel without headlamp by 4:45.

Ok here is more info than you need to know... I belive the Prius 2 battery pack is $800 retail. Toyota are giving an 8 year guarantee. That pack price includes some anciliary cooling structures that are needed No one knows what the true cost is Taht battery is NiMH. it is generally agreed that that is dead end technology. it works but ti will nevere be the cost effectove solution. The great hopes are Li Ion and Li polymer These are running on sample vehicles and of course are used on laptops. Energy density is about twice NiMH. power density not much different. Life unknown NiMh is a fairly safe technology. Not much to go wrong in an accident. Over or undercharging generally not a problem at least as far as safety is concerned Lithium in either from has safety isues. It can burn quite viciously, but I guess no worse than gasoline. It can explode if a short circuit happens in an accident, and it can be violent One of the main issues is working temperature. Below freezing the battery must be heated, above 120 the battery must be cooled. Sadly this takes a large amount of energy, which will end your great gas consumption. Unless any battery is recycled properly it will definatly cause enviromental problems. They are not something you want to dump at the side of the road. Luckily the material batteries contain have monetarty value even when the battery is done, so recycling incentives are not a problem. You want to save money, go look at a Golf TDI.