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Everything posted by Alasdair
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Basically what Dru is trying to say is that your chance of getting any good beer in Lilloette are zero to none so buy your beer in the US because as everyone knows canadian beer sucks balls.
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Lillooet pre-TR, missing gear, and rumors
Alasdair replied to CascadeClimber's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
" it would suck it be left hanging in space there." Yes it did... If rappelling I recomend you follow the ice and not go off of the face so that you will be able to get a v thread in. If you do go off of the face there is a pin that you could try your luck rapping off of, but you will likely die trying. -
Lillooet pre-TR, missing gear, and rumors
Alasdair replied to CascadeClimber's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
"Another rumor that the ramp rap on Synchro can't be done right now on double 60s. The tree on the face is gone, too." Yes it probably can. We had 55m ropes and were very close. No will will not be able to reach a tree at the top of the ramp, but you will be able to get to where the ice angle eases enough that you can walk to the base of the next pitch. -
I think you are going to be pretty dissapointed. I highly recomend you go to the gym once find someone to go climb outside with and if the sun is out go check out the south facing Black cliffs just east of down town. Great Tieton River type basalt colums. You can get a guide book for about $5 call boise climbs. I was stuck there for several weeks a couple of years ago and had a great time climbing basalt. As far as places to get stuck Boise really is not that bad. Also take an afternoon and check out the World Center for Birds of Prey. Very cool if you have even the slightest interest in birds.
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Does anyone know if it is feasable to get to the north side of Foraker by Traversing over Kahiltna Dome or Mt. Crossen? By feasable I mean traverse in a safe manner down the north or north west slopes of these mountains.
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I have pictures of the climb from the day Forrest and Ade were talking about. We climbed the East Ridge, and desended the same way they did. Pictures can be found at: http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/joffre/joffre.htm
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The boulder field at the end of Colchuck lake is covered in about 8 inches of snow making it very difficult and slow going. The road to Stuart Lake trail head is clear, and the trail to colchuck has anywhere from 2-4 inches of snow. Asgard pass looks like a total nightmare. I would recomend you go the snow lakes route.
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I have several photos. http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/alaska2000/014.jpg http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/alaska2000/015.jpg http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/alaska2000/016.jpg http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/alaska2000/017.jpg
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talk to wayne hes been on it.
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Get out, you can be in control of the bike at 45 mph. Most of the time when I have problem on my road bike with drivers, I think they don't realize you can move just as fast as them at times. Depends on what you mean by control. 45 mph on a road bike means you can steer it, but there's no stopping it within a reasonable amount of time if something jumps out in front of you. You're also praying to baby jesus your front tire doesn't blow When living in Eugene I blew both tires after hitting a pothole at about 45 and managed not to crash. I dont recomend trying this.
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What the hell would make you think that I might be hungover? No it was not me I stopped climbing with Ade after a cold unplanned bivy in which he kept trying to spoon with me and spent the whole night sputtering out comments about his gay lovers.
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I was up there last weekend. Although possible you will either have to spend a large amount of time route finding on incredibly scetchy snow bridges or find a route accross the leftward trending rock rib that seperates the terror glacier from the snowfield below Mcmillan. there are huge crevasses accross nearly all of the terror glacier right now, and this will only get worse. We had a similar goal to you, but lazyness caused us to climb mcmillan instead. As I said, I think it could be done, but expect a many hour experience both there and back, or wait till next year.
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Serpentine minerals (magnesium silicates; (Mg, Fe)3Si2O5(OH)4). Olive-green, blackish to yellowish green, greasy, waxy, or silky minerals with a hardness of 3-5. High in Iron and Magnesium due to the depth at which they came from.
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Read Beckeys book. It has the complete info on the green rock. Very interesting geologically. Yes it is serpentinite.
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Yea Ade, you suck! Trask you are finally correct.
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The daily Alaska air flight into or out of Unalaska airport in Dutch harbor flying on a 737. Basically drop out of clouds to a point where the wing of the heavily banked aircraft skims accross the water, level aircraft quickly, drop 40 feet onto runway and immediatly hit the brakes. Take off requires taxi to the end of the runway spin the plane around hit the brakes and run engiens to full throttle (plane starts to hop somwhat). Let go of the brakes. Imediatly after leaving the runway banks plane very sharply to avoid mountain on other side of bay and attempt to climb. From one web site: The paved runway extends for 3,900 feet. The facility is at an elevation of 22 feet at a distance of about one mile from Unalaska. From another web site describing 737 take off distance. This pilot thought the distance necessary to land and take off a 737 could be considerably less than the 8,000' mentioned by the first pilot. My second pilot contact said that by limiting fuel and passenger loads, and the use of performance landings and take offs, the distance needed could be as little as 5,000'
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I really suggest you get in touch with the local sheriff office before you take matters into your own hands. I think you would be suprised how effective a letter to the Sheriff can be if it is intellegently written and offers suggestions on how you can be contacted to help them in there investigation, etc. These type if letters might be espesially effective if you mention that the climbing community is so sick of this problem that you are concerned they will take matters into there own hands. For example, your letter could look like this: Ever since moving to Washington almost 10 years ago I have spent much of my free time hiking. In order to hike one must leave there car at trail heads to the mercy of any who might be walking by. Several times a year I return to my car only to find a window smashed out and contents of the vehicle stolen. The problem is so prevalent that on any given day it is fairly likely that at least one car in any popular parking area will be broken into and any contents stolen. I have learned not to leave anything of value in my car, but this means I have to be content with my AM radio (anything better will be stolen). I personally have had my car broken into numerous times I know of. After each time I call the sheriff department in the area that the break in occurred and usually get a response of "you should not leave anything valuable in you car", there for blaming the victims instead of the criminals breaking in, or the police that should be enforcing the laws. If these problems are not dealt with by the proper authorities I am concerned that the hiking and climbing community will take matters into there own hands. Several of the internet bulletin boards have people discussing this. By ignoring this problem, the King County Sheriff department is creating a very dangerous situation in which the public confront the criminals by setting up stings of there own with the potential for catastrophic results. Almost anyone active in the hiking or climbing community would be happy to help the King County Sheriff in dealing with these problems by giving them information on where these incidents are taking place and what time they usually happen. I would be happy to assist you with contacts of citizens who would be willing to assist the sheriff department in dealing with this matter. Thank you for you time.
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Hummmm. Lets see... It will likely be the same as every other year at this time. Possibly a little snow at the base that might be nice to have crampons to cross, or can be skirted around. The desent will have a snow field. If you dont take crampons then you walk an extra half mile around and go down from there. Oh and later in the season there will be less snow.
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My favorite thing about America is McDonalds and this countries willingness to share the wonderful food with the rest of the world. Ahh if only the whole world was fat.
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Can anyone tell me which creek is access creek. I am heading in to Luna this weekend, and route descriptions reference Access creek. I can not find access creek labeled on any map. Can someone help me figure out which one it is? I can see an luna creek and a Mcmillan creek. Is access creek the one between the two?
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Plan on them being a nightmare. Last weekend I encountered the worst bugs I have ever encountered anywhere on the north side of Stuart. I am heading in to Luna and am fully expecting a complete nightmare. Bring the Cancer causing bug juice. Its the only stuff that works.
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We froze our asses off getting basically no sleep, and having to heat water ever two hours or so to keep from shivering. I was wondering about that headlamp also. I have no idea what the fuck they were doing. I was thinking that they may have mistaken that for the Cascadian and gone down the wrong thing, and then had to come back up after getting cliffed out.
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So what time did you get back to camp? How was the decent of the Sherpa Glacier?
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If your going this weekend it should be a complete fuck show of mountaineers and other idiots. Do the east ridge and avoid the fools.
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Dont remember the name of the movie but I think it had Stefan Glowitz (sp) in it. It was about Cerro Torre, and had some of the best scenery I have ever seen in it. As always the plot is laughable but the movie is worth renting. Good luck finding it. Scarecrow video maybe.
