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Hi all, FYI, Jeff Thomas issued a reprint of Oregon High last year. It's the same book, new printing - NOT a new edition. It's available from Portland area mt. shops. Jeff sometimes needs prodding to get copies to the stores, so if the shop doesn't have it in stock, ask them to mebbe call Jeff for a delivery. (I don't work for any of these shops, nor am I Jeff's Mom.)

I was up the W Ridge Sunday. I did not see any snow on the upper N Ridge. I saw someone summit solo via the N. Ridge but I was still just approaching the summit block so I did not speak with him. I had to cross very little snow on the W. Ridge. I wore low top hikers and used my ice axe to descend the snow at the top of Cascadian colour. The snow on Cascadian colour was soft enough to arrest using your hands if you don't want to carry an ice axe. Solo, car to car, one day.

for sale: Miura rock shoes-$75, size 42.5 excellent condition with fresh resole of stealth rubber- see the shoes at Feathered Friends (ask for Todd) or email me ------------------toddlerinseattle@hotmail.com dr. alimentado [This message has been edited by todd budden (edited 07-08-2001).] [This message has been edited by todd budden (edited 07-08-2001).]

Heading up the Chimneys this weekend, does anyone have recent information on conditions? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I think we passed Sunday around noon. I did the same loop going the opposite direction. Parked at Snow Lakes th, walked up past 8 mile cg, and I was the happy, lucky, successful hitchiker that got a ride from there 5 miles to Stuart Lk. th. Hiked up Aasgard pass, hiked up Little Annapurna, and down past Snow Lake. I like going up Aasgard Pass much better than down it. Since I only hked 21 miles instead of 27 I had time to stop and enjoy the scenery. Saw a party of twenty (yes 20!) heading up Colchuck col and three on S. Face Prussik. I recommend this as it is one of my favorite conditioner hikes.

Bob: Don't go. It's unclimbable. Don't make Kelly fly again. John

Dude: There's a good chance they'll be snow on the route. Take skis.

No one has mentioned MC 900 Foot Jesus, Dr. Dre, Tupac, US3, or French rapper MC Solar. Or Travis Shredd & the Good Ol' Homeboys. They'll make you want to sleep with your cousin. And Spearhead. See them live. Michael Franti married a local gal, and they play here often. You can still get stoned in the bathroom at the Show Box, but be careful. Did I write that? Gotta love Iggy, Ben Harper, Dave Matthews, Peter Murphy, Malcolm McClaren, Camper Van Beethoven, Jimmy Dale Gilmore, Dwight Yoakum (man, can he pelvic thrust on stage), and yes, Aidan, even Led Zep. And don't forget Peter Gabriel. Mostly, whatever tunes turn you on, there is nothing finer than getting back to the car at the end of a dirt road, cranking the stereo while you crack a cold one from the cooler, and basking in the afterglow of a good climb with good friends. Party on, Wayne. [This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 05-10-2001).]

I have certainly gotten lost looking for rock climbs, and in fact did so just yesterday. But I have never gotten lost with Viktor's books and the topos have almost always been right on. There are many derogatory things have been said about a certain WA author's topos and his means of acquiring them. From what I know, none of these negative remarks could be levelled at Viktor. The only "downside" to any good guidebook is the inevitable "overcrowding" that results. But that is a different debate. So Caveman, go club someone else.

Trip Report - Short Version Get up early. Drink Coffee. Call in sick to work. Drive to Leavenworth. Drink more coffee. Climb several easy multi-pitch routes and thump chest. Drink Beer. Drive to Carlton and listen to live Bluegrass band at the gas station. Drive to Winthrop. Get campsite. Drink more beer. Go to open mike night at the country bar. Bad idea. Drink more beer. Wake up with head ache. Drink coffee. Drink more coffee. Drink even more coffee. Climb to base of route. Climb four pitches in snow, ice, and wind. Wish you were back in Winthrop drinking beer. Take fall. Get saved by old rusty piton. Thank Fred Beckey. Summit. Rappel. Get rope stuck while pulling rappel. Cry. Wiggle rope. Get out knife. Thank God when rope miraculously comes free. Finish rappel. Return to car. Drink more coffee. Drive home. Trip Report - Long Version After a day of warm, sunny climbing on Castle Rock in Leavenworth (checked out Midway - three pitches of exposed 5.6 - great route - my kinda climbin'), we headed to Liberty Bell. I had promised Todd and Jeff that I would climb it with them last year, but Jon, Brian and I wound up doing it instead. Conditions were much different this time around. The locals in Winthrop warned us about avalanche conditions, but we decided to go up anyway and snowshoe around. We left the cars with the gear, just in case the climbing looked good. It was cloudy, 25 degrees, and snowing when we left the parking lot. The snow turned out to be pretty well consolidated because it was taking a beating from the wind and all the loose stuff was pushed up through the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord (or is it Lexington?). Anyway, we slogged up to the notch (see attached picture). Todd didn't like the looks of it and decided to head back. Jeff and I aren't that smart. It looked like a real Mark Twightish sort of adventure so we went for it. The trick was getting into the route. The route starts above a cliff and around the corner from where we were. To get there, you traverse a ledge over a cliff and go to a chimney. In the summer this was no big deal, but this time the ledge was covered in snow and verglas. We almost gave up before I scrambled up an icy ramp and set up a belay. I belayed Jeff down and out onto to the ledge (see attached picture - the last I took before the camera froze solid), where he set up protection to keep us from rolling off of it in case we slipped. He then belayed me over and we headed up the chimney. All of the rock was covered with snow and verglas. Because of the conditions, we were in boots instead of shoes. Not bad at first, but I wasn't sure I would be able to make the friction moves higher up. From the chimney, Jeff led the second pitch up a dihedral/chimney. I remember the moves being a little awkward when the route was dry, but with the route covered in snow and ice, it was nearly impossible. We actually had to chip the ice away and move snow to find holds and cracks for protection. The third pitch was no better. Low angle rock covered with snow and ice. I fell four or five times on a couple of the moves. Reminiscent of Mt Stuart, it was like taking a ride on a cheese grater. Needless to say, I need to buy a couple more small wire nuts, they are forever implanted on the finger tip traverse! To make matters even worse, I overprotected the pitch and created such rope drag that it took all my strength with both legs to haul the rope once I finally got the belay set up. From the third pitch we scrambled to the summit at 5:30 - five and a half hours after arriving at the notch. We had been in a constant 30-50 mph wind at 20 - 25 degrees the entire time. Since it's only four easy pitches, we left all the food and water at the notch. I was working on a granola bar and eight cups of coffee. We were cold and just wanted to get down. I had bad memories from making the rappel the first time so we decided to rappel the route instead. Besides, the wind was blowing so hard through the notch, I was honestly afraid we would be blown out over the Northern side of the gully without any way to get our feet on the ground. At one point on our rappel we got the rope so badly stuck while pulling it that we actually considered getting the knife out. Neither of us could stand the thought of going up to retrieve it. Jeff gave it one last wiggle and voila! it came free. We ended up at the base of the route at 7:30. It took seven and a half hours to climb and descend. We were back at the car at 8:30 just as it was getting dark.

I'm with Nick on the the Stubai Tirol with the Combi binding. They're great. And once you see Stubai Girl on the Pro Mountain Sports website (crampon section), you'll want them too.

Technica Alta TCY2 or the newer version of the same. These boots work much better than the White Sox this year.

My good friend Alpine Tom is right that lime juice can be substituted for the lemon juice, or you can mix the two. But whether you're a lemon or lime kind of guy (or gal), at least try this with the proportions mentioned above. You'll see. Or if you drink enough of it, you won't see. Drunk tested; Drunk approved. Adios!

What was Stephanie's last name, if you know?

Is this climb near Warts in my Shorts or Five Gray Knobs?

At first I thought you were going to talk about a new style of hair piece for climbers.

I agree that the Emmons is your best choice. It's really pretty. Have fun!

There is more to life than climbing. Like drinking. If you like strong margs, try this one: 4 ozs. fresh-squeezed lemon juice (usually requires two large lemons) 6 ozs. triple sec (or Cointreau if you want to spend a lot of money) 8 ozs. tequila (it pays to use good stuff; light gold or gold tequila will provide a richer-tasting drink than white tequila) 2 cap fulls Rose's Lime Juice Splash of Sweet & Sour mix (Rose's and Sweet & Sour are available in any grocery store) Stir, and serve over ice; don't blend; salt glasses if desired. Put the leftover drink in the freezer. It won't freeze, but you will end up with the best damn slurpee you've ever had. They don't call me Mr. Good Time for nothin'. John Sharp

"I need a stiff drink." Mr. Good Time

Your boots will be fine. When I did it April 1, I had randonee boots and my partner had leather tele boots. You should ski up from, and down to, the hairpin turn. It's a good run.

If Aidan is right, then Bart is sounding more and more like Marc Twight all the time. The point of my post was to communicate to the other Mariner's fans who frequent this website what we fans all feel right now: genuine excitement. Some of us believe there is more to life than climbing and debates about spray, bolting ethics, and snowmobiles in the wilderness. But if it makes you feel good to slam baseball or other professional or team sports, be my guest.

A short thin rope (like 30m 8-8.5mm) will be fine. Crampons and ice axe and maybe a short "third tool" for your other hand in case it's icy. The route should be in good shape now. You might take one ice screw and a few chocks, but probably won't need them. This route is not long, but is a fun way to the top at this time of year. Have fun!

Forrest: People I know who know you say you're a good guy. I'm sure that is true. Now, you can't hold what happened with the stadium against the players who are working so well together, can you?

Forget climbing for a minute. How about our baseball team? I realize many of you don't live in Seattle or the surrounding areas, but come on. Let's hear it for Lou's crew!

Aidan: You animal. When I saw Black Sabbath in 1978 at the Arena, they were already old and tired. Van Halen opened and blew them away. "Jamie's Cryin'," "Runnin' with the Devil," and all that. We stumbled out of the Arena after listening to a very lame "Iron Man." We were stoned as rats, and happy to be alive. God Bless America.