none_dup1

Agreed; take it off. I have known Miles since he was a baby, and fully appreciate his accomplishments. He and I have had some fun times together. But the ad is bothersome. I'm sure it will be a great show.

Thanks Lowell. This looks like a good one. John

I've skied it three times, always in May. I's a good month, and I'm sure April would work too with a stretch of nice weather. It took me exactly three hours car-to-top last time with skis on my back. Monitor Ridge is a good ski, as is Butte Camp. Expect crowds on sunny May weekends. I don't recommend camping on the road as it's a bit of a zoo. Have fun! John Sharp

Has anyone beside Gordy and Carl Skoog done this route? Nelson and Potterfield have a good write-up, but I would love to know more. This might be a good year for it what with the anticipated early road opening. Thanks, John Sharp

Bob Davis told me this weekend that he saw about a dozen entries per year in the Garfield summit register. Some years more, some fewer. I think it's getting more attention than we think, and hope this road closure never happens. The same was threatened in Darrington. Matt Perkins' Darrington web-site discusses that situation. Keep up the good work, Mike. John

I like the La Fuma 42, but have never worn the 32. The 42 was perfect for trips like Stuart N. Ridge, Forbidden N. Ridge, J'Berg NE Rib, etc. Just enough room for an overnight or two without a tent. I'll bet the Khamsin 38 is perfect for this application too. But neither of these is a pack I'd carry in another pack. That's where the Lowe Alpine Atack or maybe some of these other very simple light stuff-sack type packs come in. Go Lite might have something too. Good luck. John

Size 10.5 (U.S. Men's size) Super Mtn. 9 boots for sale for $80. I've worn these up Rainier 3 times, Mt. Hood once, S. Early Winter Spire, Johannesberg, Forbidden, Maude, and Colchuck 2 times. They are broken in but still have plenty of life. Call (425) 468-7083 or e-mail jsharp@paccar.com if interested. Thanks! John Sharp Bellevue

I second the kind words about the Fifth Season climbing shop. On a business trip through that area three years ago, they found me a guide with Michael Zanger's Shasta guide service on very short notice. I wanted a belay slave for local rock for half a day, and got one. Great guy, great break from work. If I go down again, I'll build in time for Castle Crags. John P.S. I once watched a German guy ski through the Pearly Gates on Hood and jump the bergschrund on short skis with a lit cigarette hanging out of his mouth. Pretty bad ass dude.

Bob Davis and I climbed Casaval Ridge in late spring 1995. Straightforward and beautiful route. We carried a rope fully expecting to use it, but never did. I agree that the Avalanche Gulch would be a better ski than Casaval, and I personaly think St. Helens is a better ski than Hood. South Spur of Adams is on par with Shasta in terms of a long ski. You can't go wrong with any of these. The cool thing about Shasta is it's a great road trip and the town and mountain have a very strong positive vibe. I'm not a crystal and incense kind of guy, but it's hard not to feel groovy in the town of Mount Shasta. Party on. John Sharp

Juan, an avowed boot kicker and sometimes skier, will climb anything so long as it is easy. Viva el pollo elastica! Juan

Many kudos to them for doing it in such thin conditions. Weird about that aid pitch, though! John

Thanks for the report. Glad you had an awesome day. John

Way to go Greg! The whole way up, Bob and I were wishing we had skis. The snow seemed perfect. Hope our tracks didn't blow the run . . . Any word on the New York Gully climbers? John

Are you talking about the North Rib route, or one of the routes to either side of it? John Sharp

The NW side of Snoqualmie saw quite a bit of action this weekend. The weather was stunning and the snow stable. Laurie Andrews, Bob Davis, my wife Kirsten, and I headed up to do the NW Face gully route yesterday (Sunday), which Phil F., on his excellent website, describes in great detail and calls the "Enigma Gully." Along the ridge leading down into the basin below the NW Face we found the beautiful bivi site of two people who we then spotted part way up the New York Gully route. See Nelson/Potterfield Vol. II. Once down in the basin, we traversed across the bottom of the face and then up the 1,000' gully, which seemed like honest 45 degrees in places. Deep snow, but stable. When we got to the top, who should we meet but Phil F. and his friends Matt and Greg, strapping on their tele skis and getting psyched to ski the gully. They had come straight up from Alpental. We watched as they took off one by one, set a few turns, and disappeared around the corner. Not a run for the timid as an uncontrolled fall could be ugly. From the top of the gully it's a short hike through small trees to the summit. We did not see the New York Gully pair, but trust they topped out. From our vantage point, the route didn't look too icy, but only they can really report on this. The "Enigma Gully" is a great conditioner in a beautiful setting. Follow the Nelson/Potterfield description to get up and over the ridge at 5,200 and then down into the basin, then cross the basin past the start of the New York Gully route until you hit the top of the fan of trees. Look up. You'll see the gully. Follow it all the way to the top, then bear left and hike the last few hundred feet or so to the summit. Many descents are possible, but we went down the West Ridge which took us to within about 100 yds. of the car at the upper Alpental parking lot. Short rope optional at this point in the season; we didn't use ours in the gully. No snowshoes needed, but ski poles were very helpful. Three of us used our aluminum crampons, and they were fine. This is a good route to climb up or ski down. Enjoy! John Sharp Bellevue

A Western Mountaineering -20 degree down & Gore-Tex bag was my choice on McKinley when I went on an early May trip. Too much bag, even when it dipped below -20 !! Poly is bulky and heavy, but more importantly to me: it only lasts a few short years. Down will give you possibly decades of service. And don't even think of compressing that poly bag if you want it to last. Good climbing!

My wife and I both have the Lowe Alpine Attack summit/compression sack. We put our sleeping bags in them and take them on trips like Rainier and others where we'll have a base camp then go for the top with very little gear on our backs. I've also used mine on day trips and found it to be fine except that the lack of shoulder strap padding (at least on our older model) is noticeable at the end of the day of you have any amount of weight in the pack. I took them both to Rainy Pass and had a second daisy chain/axe loop sewn on for second tools. I believe Mark Twight had a hand in designing these, so they are understandably minimalist. Our new favorite day pack is the Arc Teryx Khamsin 30. I've used mine five times this winter and love it. Very comfortable, light, and simple. We also have La Fuma 42 packs, and like those for slightly bigger loads. I've used mine on J'berg and N. Ridge of Forbidden and other 2-3 day trips of that nature. Compare it to the Khamsin 38. I agree that you should go to Pro Mountain Sports for all of this stuff, and think carefully about your intended uses. You can't have too many packs! John Sharp

This is the kind of combo I wanted too, and I went with the Grivel Jorasses in 60 cm and Grivel Black Compact third tool (I think it's 43cm). If I ever do any real ice climbing, I'll use something heavier and longer than the third tool, but for easy alpine ice and plunging, this is a great set-up. Check out the Pro Mountain Sports web site. John Sharp

"I'm lowering the price to an amazing $220.00 per tool (but no extra pick)," says Tom, at heins6@juno.com. Or phone Tom at 509-667-1617 to get these juicy Cobra's, with nearly new original components: picks and hammer and adze.

I'll answer these inquiries, from the very second hand info that I have. The individual's tool & Burton snowboarding mitt were stuck in the ice @ 60ft. high, one BD ice screw was in place @ 30ft. high, with the rope running through it and down to the ground where it was cut. It is assumed by my friend, who led up, placing four screws, and established a V-thread rappel and recovered the equipment, that the individual had been using some method of roped soloing. It doesn't appear to me that the system failed. Hopefully someone else knows more about the event and can give the story. We wish Mr. Devany well. ------------------ KC

I keep hearing mixed reports on N.E. Slab of the Tooth, and especially Chair N. Face. I hear from reliable sources that the N. Face has been climbed this year. Anyone out there done it, or know who has? It would be nice to have some idea before using a valuable "hall pass" to go up there. Thanks, John Sharp

I climbed Red a month ago before the new snow, and it was no problem. Even though it was snowing hard that day and they were blasting away at Cave Ridge, we stayed in the trees up to the SW Ridge and on the ridge itself to the top and felt plenty safe. More recently, we saw ski tracks down the lower face this past Sunday, so even this new snow must have stabilized. The snow on the N. and E. sides of Guye were quite stable on Sunday, for what it's worth. I suspect you'll find a number of tracks through the woods leading to Red, and won't need snowshoes until you are rising up the rib out of Commonwealth Basin, if at all. Good luck, John Sharp

Two BD Cobra's, with an extra pick each! Priced at $250.00 per tool (extra pick included, man!)

My climbing buddy found an ice tool and some other gaer left at the scene of the accident in the basin on Tuesday. This victim may be in a coma, but if anyone can identify the gear and story, then return of this gear is desired. ------------------ KC

Since the original "Winter Routes" thread was terminated while I was writing and submitting a route report, I'll try this one again. Guye Peak, E. Gully: Yesterday (2/11/01), my wife Kirsten, Laurie Andrews, and I climbed this route. It's not technical, but is a good conditioner and more sporting than the N. Ridge or the std. route up from Alpental. To get there, park at the Oberstrasse Rd. parking lot directly below the W. Face of Guye. Head up through the woods on the right side of the scree slope. Find the toe of the S. Rib and contour around the right side of the peak at about 4,000' (Commonwealth Basin side). Keep the flanks of the peak (on your left) within sight above you for the most part. You will be heading N./N.E., and will cross several minor ribs. When the slope below and in front of you opens into an obvious avalanche zone with much smaller trees, begin heading up into the gully. It's about 30-40 feet wide and runs clear to the top, just N. of the N. Peak. It's 35-40 degrees, maybe a tad steeper at the very top. Take an ice axe and crampons. Rope optional. No pro should be needed unless it's icy (which is wasn't yesterday). Descend back down to Alpental and walk the road back to the car. Should take 3-4 hours up, 1-1.5 down to car. Beckey has good beta, drawings, and pictures. John Sharp [This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 02-12-2001).]