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none_dup1

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  1. Here's a question: What about using small (2.5 lb. each) strap on ankle weights on each leg on the kind of stair machine that has real stairs that rotate around (The Gauntlet or Step Mill are two brands)? My theory is that this helps the muscles that lift the leg and replicates wearing a heavy-duty leather or plastic boot on steeper terrain. I would run real stairs if there were any in our neighborhood, but there aren't, so have used this technique. Is this a bogus way to train? Several trainers at our club have suggested it strains the knees. I used it quite aggressively prior to three Rainier trips over the last two years, as did my wife, and we felt this really helped. Thanks for any input, John Sharp
  2. Excellent point, Forrest. A question I've always had is whether Clint and George Kennedy really climbed the sandstone pinnacle in the desert, and whether they actually did it with a sixer of Oly in Clint's pack, as portrayed. As for classic phrases, I've made it a point to use this phrase during, or immediately before, every trip in the last decade. It (or something quite close to it) was uttered by one of the team members (the feisty German?) as they contemplated the deteriorating weather forecast during a tense pre-climb meeting: "Good wezzuh, bad wezzuh, any wezzuh's good wezzuh foh climbing!" Truer words were never spoken, eh?
  3. I measure all mountain climbing movies against the Eiger Sanction, arguably the only true classic in the genre. How does this one compare? Any cameos by Clint? Any albinistic forces of evil? Does Ed train by chasing a beautiful dark-haired woman around the American Southwest? Without these elements, I'm afraid it's doomed . . .
  4. Rats. He must have wandered off with George Kennedy in search of a new disaster movie. Or perhaps he's gone back to WA DC in hopes of filling a Bush cabinet post. We'll keep an eye out. Thanks for the update!
  5. For a good, if cutting review of the movie, be sure to read Geoff Powter's piece in the December 2000 R&I, page 98-103. That way you'll know when to look for the foam rubber rocks, fake snow, etc. Party on.
  6. Great list, Murphy! What the hell, as long as we're going out of state, I'll add three worth anyone's time. Not hard routes, but each great in its own way. Mt. Shasta, Casaval Ridge (III) Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges (CO; also called Ellingwood Arete; III 5.7; see "50 Crowded Climbs" for full description; longish two-day r.t. from Boulder) Lone Eagle Peak, N. Face (CO; III 5.7; south of Rocky Mtn. Nat'l Park; also a longish two-day r.t from Boulder, but we still made it back to the "BustStop" (or however it's spelled) gentlemen's club in Boulder by 10:00 p.m., following a relaxed dinner on the road; all in all, a banner day) Signing out, John Sharp
  7. I wonder if there might be a market for these in places like Green Bay where std. bedroom slippers make a trip to the mail box a hazardous venture in icy conditions? Just a thought. Way to go Dan.
  8. Great report! This looks much different than it did over 4th of July weekend this year when Chris Weidner, Bob Davis, and I climbed it. A "moderate" snow climb at that point in time, though Bob and I were hoping for some ice practice. As it turned out, we didn't need any snow or ice protection. In fact, one could do this whole route when we did it without a rope. I suspect more people would want to rope up on the rock than the snow. I wanted the rope on the rock, but this was more a function of still suffering from a sinus infection that day and feeling really shaky, plus being a husband, father of two, etc. etc. Chris basically ran up the ridge unroped, but then again he is young and brave and strong and climbs 5.13. After the snow portion, it was no problem to reach the low point on the rock ridge (with Marmot Pyramid not far to climber's left). The big 'schrund was easily passable at that point in time, but obviously is not later in the year when you have to get on the rock lower down and to the right as pictured in this report. That gave us a little bit more rock climbing on the ridge itself, where the rock was actually quite good and about the same rating as you found. We didn't use anything bigger than 1". The ridge reminded us of the north ridge of Forbidden, though there is less vertical to cover and slightly easier rock climbing overall. In any event, this could be a long day climb from the car (the north face is often done as such) or if you want to camp/bivi, you can find a spot at the well-used campsites in Leroy Basin (lots of spots and quite popular), higher up in the basin as we did (flat spots here and there, but mostly snow- covered in early July), or over at Ice Lakes or on the way to them. While beautiful and removed, a lake camp didn't seem to us to make the most sense given the approach we used, but I'm sure lots of folks stay there anyway. It's gorgeous, and the start of the climb is closer at hand. We took the traditional approach via Ice Lakes, but more people will probably come at it (and the north face) from the Seven-Fingered Jack/Maude col with the recent publication of Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield's new book. In any event, it's obviously worth a return trip later in the season. This was our "fall back" July 1-2 when weather farther west and north turned sour. We were snowed on a bit Sat. night and it was well below freezing, but the weather cooperated Sunday and we climbed in our base layers once the sun came out. I wonder if our little picture of Charlton Heston is still in the Maude summit register? Remember: "Shoot first, ask questions later." John Sharp [This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 12-07-2000).] [This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 12-07-2000).]
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