Great report! This looks much different than it did over 4th of July weekend this year when Chris Weidner, Bob Davis, and I climbed it. A "moderate" snow climb at that point in time, though Bob and I were hoping for some ice practice. As it turned out, we didn't need any snow or ice protection. In fact, one could do this whole route when we did it without a rope. I suspect more people would want to rope up on the rock than the snow. I wanted the rope on the rock, but this was more a function of still suffering from a sinus infection that day and feeling really shaky, plus being a husband, father of two, etc. etc. Chris basically ran up the ridge unroped, but then again he is young and brave and strong and climbs 5.13.
After the snow portion, it was no problem to reach the low point on the rock ridge (with Marmot Pyramid not far to climber's left). The big 'schrund was easily passable at that point in time, but obviously is not later in the year when you have to get on the rock lower down and to the right as pictured in this report. That gave us a little bit more rock climbing on the ridge itself, where the rock was actually quite good and about the same rating as you found. We didn't use anything bigger than 1". The ridge reminded us of the north ridge of Forbidden, though there is less vertical to cover and slightly easier rock climbing overall.
In any event, this could be a long day climb from the car (the north face is often done as such) or if you want to camp/bivi, you can find a spot at the well-used campsites in Leroy Basin (lots of spots and quite popular), higher up in the basin as we did (flat spots here and there, but mostly snow- covered in early July), or over at Ice Lakes or on the way to them. While beautiful and removed, a lake camp didn't seem to us to make the most sense given the approach we used, but I'm sure lots of folks stay there anyway. It's gorgeous, and the start of the climb is closer at hand. We took the traditional approach via Ice Lakes, but more people will probably come at it (and the north face) from the Seven-Fingered Jack/Maude col with the recent publication of Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield's new book.
In any event, it's obviously worth a return trip later in the season. This was our "fall back" July 1-2 when weather farther west and north turned sour. We were snowed on a bit Sat. night and it was well below freezing, but the weather cooperated Sunday and we climbed in our base layers once the sun came out.
I wonder if our little picture of Charlton Heston is still in the Maude summit register? Remember: "Shoot first, ask questions later."
John Sharp
[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 12-07-2000).]
[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 12-07-2000).]