texplorer

4ft Crowbar $40 Wall Hammer $70 60m Static $100 Epoxy $10 MiniHacksaw $15 Saw blades $10 Labor(minwage)$15 Climbing a boltless classic crack- Priceless

They should've called the lady-J the Pist-off.

I've seen the lady J! Penis envy?

Some excellent posts here today. For the most part I agree with what has been said here. I don't look down on sport climbers at all but I have a few problems however with some of your "reasons" for not trad climbing. If money is a reason you can't buy pro let me introduce you to a new inexpensive kind of food called Ramen Noodles. Joking aside I don't make that much money but I got a job where I could get gear at half price and I save like Ebeneezer and yes I eat ramen on a regular basis. My point is that time and money are not an excuse not to climb. You may have chosen to go to college and get a degree or have a job but that was your decision. What you should say is you don't want it bad enough to sacrifice your education or girlfriend or whatever. There is nothing wrong with that just don't use that as a crutch. As for trad being safe - it can be very safe. If you want more safety go do another extreme sport like rollerblading. Most people climb at least in part to experience the feeling of danger whether real or contrived. I understand your comments on the general disrespect for sport and boulders. Do what you like to do and don't worry about it when we are ditching all you blue haired, eyebrow pierced, rastafarian cap sport climbers. Most of the time we say it all in fun. Climb on.

oh, almost forgot. Go with the 10.5mm or I am even looking at getting a 10mm or 9.9mm. They are lighter and smaller. Cheers

Pluto, First of all, I doubt you'll need a dry rope for what your going to be climbing. Dry ropes are mainly for use on glacier and vertical ice climbs. Seldom will you be climbing on rock when its rainy and wet. As far as length -go with the 60m if you can afford it. It never hurts to have a little extra and it's necessary on some climbs. Some people are even moving up to 65m or 70m ropes even. You should be able to find a decent rope for about $100 if you look around. I even have seen them at the Recreational Evil Impire (REI) for just over a franklin. I would also recommend a metolious rope bag to protect your rope. I have one that has a roll out tarp -its really nice to have and worth the 30 or 40 bucks extra.

goatboy, I too was thinking of heading up there about that time. I have heard it is easy to find a job in nearby telluride at one of hte resorts in the area. How long are you planning on being there?

Hey holly, I'm headed to Smith too. I'm in Portland though and am probably going with several other people and meeting yet more down there. Are you a trad leader or more of a sport climber? I was hoping to hit the lower gorge at least one of the days.

Huuuu....YOU CLIMB ON THE SABBATH -YOU INFIDEL! I'm going to fly a plane into your outback while your on your way to the crag.

When is this thread going to end?

I agree EV. The N ridge was great! I did it earlier this year. Definetely of "50 Classics" status.

Rafael, It's easy dude. Just go to the bottom of it where the road is and start heading in a generally upward direction. After alot of that you'll get to this spot where you can't go up anymore (I've heard its called the summit). From there you go down but be careful there's these cracks in the snow and stuff.

I wonder how many people participate in eluding of Forest Service Personal at trailheads or the fast growing extreme sport of scrapbooking your favorite climb-goddess. I bet they just put them in with the Mountain/Rock climbers.

Since many of you are veteran climbers from washington I would be interested to find out what would be the "must do" alpine rock and ice routes in Washington. I have read Nelson/Potterfield but was wondering which you would classify as -the best of the best- and if there were any routes they may have left out. In other words what climbs would make you a true NW alpine bad ass. I'm not asking for death climbs but just fun, classic climbs that don't include slog only routes. Carpe Diem

TimB, How did the Rooster treat you? I was on beacon rock over the weekend and it was a great weekend in the gorge. Did my first solo of the SE corner. yahoo!!!

FatKid, What is your definition of "very run out." Are we talking about a 15ft, 30ft, or 60ft fall. I was just curious. KD

I too want to do the Yocum CFF. It looks very interesting. Anyone know where to find any good pics of the route and/or when it comes into season.

I want to take a pic for one of those Patagonia ads with the "Commited to the core" captions below it. I'll be sitting on the hood of my 93 cougar with all my rock gear out and pouring mountain dew out of a 2-liter onto my sugar frosted flakes. Of course I'll have to borrow someone else's Pataguchi gear since I'm just a poor climber and don't own any myself.

TG and Ken, How much money are you guys looking at spending on your expeditions. I am looking at heading down to S America already and illimani sounds interesting. I am poor but I hear S America is cheap. Ultimately I want to do the Polish Glacier on Aconcagua.

So if you were woken up by Conny in only his smoking robe and boots you would normally be a bit startled. They are mocking that by showing him being the one startled by a women in a pink robe awakening him. Over the entire campaign is a little ridiculous. It was funny the first time - now a little like beating a dead horse.

Rocks, trees, glaciers - do they truly have names? Nature only exists and changes form. To name mountains, routes, and specific climbs is to put our own limitations on nature. Yes, I use names to identify a climb to other climbers but I remember it as it was for me. It would seem silly to name each hold or crevass on a climb yet at places like Smith there are names for climbs just feet apart. So, to tell you the truth -do I remember names of climbs? Yes, so that I may orient myself and others to the places and things we have done. More importantly though I also remember the exact spot on a climb and the exact feeling of slapping at a hold; missing; and taking a whipper. I don't name the move that I finally mastered but it is no less vivid. In short, a true climber remembers the experience. He recalls the names to impress the chicks back at the lodge and to keep the vertically challenged rastafarian boulderers stuck to their roadside frolics. Spray on

Anyone have the beta on how to get to that grade IV limestone wall? I am looking for an adventure!

Pope, I saw some guys heading up to ingal's about a month ago with crash pads too. It was kinda weird seeing them huffing their way up there beside the totally different alpine crew headed for Stuart. I suppose I put them one class up from the tailgate boulderers and almost even with the lycra clad sportys. I guess you guys haven't seen the Beckey Bouldering guide to Ingal's Lake- Take the easy 10 min hike up to ingals lake. On the west side of the lake you will find several V6's easily doable in your nepal-tops as a warm-up. Continue around to the north for some fun V1 mono problems. For an easy high-ball problem taverse to the Gendarme on the north ridge of Stuart for a fun V0.

Are you guys the ones with the flower stickers on your helmets?

Nick, If your under age 25 there are actually lots of scholarships and grants to fund expeditions like you and your friends want to do. Usually you need to have specific objective that is unique from the "just go to the mountains and climb" trip. Yes its hard to believe -they sometimes just give you money. Your other option is to do something sick like solo a winter ascent of the Cassin ridge on Denali or some sick s#$t like that. I saw one that was for high schoolers. It provided an entirely paid 7 day NOLS trip and/or guided trip. As for gear testers -everyone at this site would love to get free gear and be a tester. If you want cheap stuff work at a climbing shop.